problem....please help
yes...i just recently purchased a 93 gs3 with 182k and i have problems not sure what to do but here they are...... first off i have the admire bodykit and 20in rims...
1)when i hit a bump on the highway and on local roads my car slides or bounces sideways....
2)another problem is my idle fluctuates but my rpm needle doesn't move....
3)when i turn the car, the wheel doesnt go back (seems like somethings pulling to whichever
direction im steering)
so far thats all the problems i have....please help me out here...i just want the car to ride and drive well. So far someone told me to use sea-foam....does that really work?
oh and how do you make the daytime driving lights work.....i have the projector behind the slit inbetween turn signal and low beam.
1)when i hit a bump on the highway and on local roads my car slides or bounces sideways....
2)another problem is my idle fluctuates but my rpm needle doesn't move....
3)when i turn the car, the wheel doesnt go back (seems like somethings pulling to whichever
direction im steering)
so far thats all the problems i have....please help me out here...i just want the car to ride and drive well. So far someone told me to use sea-foam....does that really work?
oh and how do you make the daytime driving lights work.....i have the projector behind the slit inbetween turn signal and low beam.
Have you tried a fuel injector cleaner??? That should help with idling.
About your steering...hard to tell by what you mean but maybe you Power steering pump is out?
About daytime lights, turn your wheel on the turn signal lever that turns your headlights to whatever mode clockwise until it stops, then go counter clockwise one notch, it should be right below the AUTO.
About your steering...hard to tell by what you mean but maybe you Power steering pump is out?
About daytime lights, turn your wheel on the turn signal lever that turns your headlights to whatever mode clockwise until it stops, then go counter clockwise one notch, it should be right below the AUTO.
My money is that your ball joints need replacing and you need an alignment. There is a set of upper arms with bushing and ball joints in the classifieds for $400 which is a steal. I paid $660 for mine from Carson Toyota. The lowers will run you about $125 a pair. I assume the car is lowered. Are the shocks stock or aftermarket?
As for the idling, check the wires to see what the date is on them. If they are 5 years or older I'd swap them. Change the plugs, cap and rotor while you are at is. Sounds like you have an ignition miss.
As for the idling, check the wires to see what the date is on them. If they are 5 years or older I'd swap them. Change the plugs, cap and rotor while you are at is. Sounds like you have an ignition miss.
thanx guys..i bought the fuel injector cleaner but didnt put it in yet as for the steering, its really loose. i changed the ball joints and its still the same.....
the car is not lowered, its actually on stock suspension but i have kyb shocks coming in soon. also i dont know if i should lower the car because the bodykit is too low but i definitely need a higher spring rate....iionno im still confused maybe i need bushings? but thanx for the advice so far
the car is not lowered, its actually on stock suspension but i have kyb shocks coming in soon. also i dont know if i should lower the car because the bodykit is too low but i definitely need a higher spring rate....iionno im still confused maybe i need bushings? but thanx for the advice so far
Jack your car up and see if you can notice anything loose.
When I bought my car with 222,000 miles on it, I could harldy stay in my lane..especially when some bumps were involved. The problem was nither a-arm, but a control arm that keeps the hub from moving forward and backward. These things get a really good beating, under hard braking, and wear out.
It bolts to the lower arm, and run back to the rear of the sub-frame. You have to drop the sub-frame in order to change these. To test to see if these are bad, have someone look at the rear control arm bushing while you let off the brake at idle and in drive, let it roll a foot and step on the brake. If it moves at all....it needs to be replaced...check both sides.
Also, have your alignment checked.
When I bought my car with 222,000 miles on it, I could harldy stay in my lane..especially when some bumps were involved. The problem was nither a-arm, but a control arm that keeps the hub from moving forward and backward. These things get a really good beating, under hard braking, and wear out.
It bolts to the lower arm, and run back to the rear of the sub-frame. You have to drop the sub-frame in order to change these. To test to see if these are bad, have someone look at the rear control arm bushing while you let off the brake at idle and in drive, let it roll a foot and step on the brake. If it moves at all....it needs to be replaced...check both sides.
Also, have your alignment checked.
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