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Weird Vibration

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Old May 13, 2004 | 07:56 AM
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Default Weird Vibration

Guys,

When I was at a stop light, the whole car starts to vibrate. When I put it in neutral, it went away and once I put it in drive (Still stopped) it came right back. Any ideas on what I should look for?

Thanks
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Old May 13, 2004 | 10:11 AM
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Does this happen with the AC on or off? First thing to check is the sensor that bumps up the idle speed when the AC compressor is on. The compressor puts a small drag on the engine at idle and if the idle-speed is not stepped up properly you will get a noticeable vibration.
If that's OK, next check the idle-speed control motor, TPS (throttle position sensor), mass airflow sensor, and coolant temperature sensor ( if the computer thinks the engine is warmer than it actually is, it will kick down the idle speed prematurely). Usually when a sensor goes bad a CHECK ENGINE light will come on.
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Old May 13, 2004 | 10:30 AM
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The vibration occurs randomly with out the AC being on. At times the car purrs like a kitten and other times is vibrates enough to feel through out the vehicle. Currently the check engine light is not on. I really did not notice the rpm fluctuate when this occurs. I will keep my eye on it and post the info. Thankss for your help. The car is going to my mechanic tonight. I will mention the info regarding the sensors.
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Old May 14, 2004 | 06:40 AM
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Okay , I checked the RPM's yesterday and they never dropped below 500.

Here is a list of service just done the past two months.

03-01-2004
1. Front and Rear Seats Along with Center Console was Re-upholstered
2. Purchased the orginal complete owners manual with guide in leather case
3. Purchased Original Sealed First Aid Kit
4. Purchased 22 Piece Burlwoord Trim Kit( The kit is gorgeous, real wood not that fake stuff you get . I am waiting for all the work to be completed in the cabin before I install it.)


3-18-2004
1. Complete Major Tune-Up
2.Timing Belt Replaced
3. Water Pump Replaced
4. Trans Serviced
5. Flush and Fill Coolant ( Used Red Coolant)
6. Replaced the two camshaft seals
7. replaced the cranksaft seal
8. Replaced Belt tensioner Pulley
9. Installed New Exhaust Gasket
10. Replaced Throttle Vavle Body Gasket
11. Serviced Front and Rear Brakes ( 1 new caliper and two new rotors)
12. Replaced Upper and lower control arms (Both Sides)
13. Replaced Brake Hoses
14. Replaced Various Hoses and Grommets
15. Replaced Motor Mounts

05-06-2004
1.Installed KYB Shocks and Eibach Springs( Thanks to LexAristo)
2. Installed New Thermostat
3. Installed Back Up Sensors
4. Installed New Battery
5. Installed New Drivers Door Lock Switch
6. Installed Interior Moulding around Drivers Doors
7. Installed New Moulding on the Outside Drivers Door. ( Black Moulding that goes around window that prevents wind noise.)
8. Installed Aristo Center Garnish

Currently At Garage Getting The following Done
1. Right Rear Window Motor or Switch ( Being Diagnosed)
2. Repair Fog Lights
3. Check Vibration at Idle while in gear
4. Install New Antenna
5. Repair Courtesy Lights under console
6. Dye and install new shift ****
7. Recondition Steering Wheel


Still To Be completed
1. Wheels and Tires( Looking at the Moda R8 from Tirerack.com)
2. Body Kit( Still trying to decide. I was looking at the Wald, Junction Produce, Erebruni and Titan Agressor from Aerogear)
3. Have the car stripped and repainted same as original color( Pearl White)
4. AV System( Still doing research)
5. Replace Instrument Cluster Needles
6. Replace climate control bulbs
7. Install Strut Bar


This vehicle has been a labor of love. It will never leave my side. Once the engine passes away on me I will have the dual turbo installed professionally. LexAristo and I share the same passion for our cars and I just want to thank him for his help as well as inviting me to this forum.

Last edited by redstar142; May 14, 2004 at 07:11 AM.
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Old May 14, 2004 | 02:09 PM
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sounds to me like your revs are getting a little low and the engine is trying to keep going. Idle should be around 700 rpm. My idle got a little lower maybe 600 after getting an intake and exhaust but i don't know if thats the culpret for sure. Mine rumbles every so often but then i just tap the gas pedal a bit and the revs go back to normal.
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Old May 14, 2004 | 02:45 PM
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Mine is doing the same dang-ole thing. And I just gave it new plugs and wires. I think it's just a symptom of age. The only thing I can think to do is clean every single little sensor in the car.

Will you come and work on my car? lol, I have to do a lot of things on your list.

Can you go into detail about the back-up sensor install? I smashed into a friggin pole in a parking garage yesterday. I want a car with metal bumpers again.
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Old May 14, 2004 | 03:07 PM
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Pianoman,
No problem. I Purchased the back up sensors from a guy on ebay. They work great as long as they are properly installed. I went with the drill in type that contains 2 sensors. here is the link from eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...&category=6779

You can e-mail him directly. The sensors ship out of Japan and he even included the drill bit.
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Old May 14, 2004 | 10:59 PM
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Originally posted by redstar142

This vehicle has been a labor of love. It will never leave my side. Once the engine passes away on me I will have the dual turbo installed professionally. LexAristo and I share the same passion for our cars and I just want to thank him for his help as well as inviting me to this forum.
I am 100% with you! I am never selling my car, but I will be looking for another car. hehe
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Old Jun 17, 2004 | 05:26 AM
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Well here is an update to the vibration that I was encountering while in gear in idle. Late last night I decided to take a little cruise. So I started the vehicle and all was fine while at idle in gear. I noticed that my RPM's were idling aroung 600-700 i removed my foot from the brake and noticed that the car did not lurch forward as one might expect with a higher rpm. Thinking that strange I proceeded driving and came to a stop sign at that point the car began to vibrate I looked down at the RPM and it was at 500. Since it was the dead of night I placed the car in park right there and noticied that the RPM's stayed at 500 and the car continued to vibrate. Why I never noticed this before is beyond me. I was looking at everything else thinkin that the RPM at idle should never go above 500. I was ready to swap out transmissions\torque converters and anything else I could think of. I want to thank everyone here who gave me advice as what to look for. Next time I have to remember to start with the simple things. Now here is a riddle if the vibration is due to the fluctuation of RPM's which I believe deals with the TPS and or MAF sensor why was the code not flagged and the Check Engine Light activated? Does this kind of problem trigger a soft code only? Or maybe it cold have been a pre-existing condition in which the computers AI(chuckle) tried to correct and adjust itself to compenate for the variance in idle????


Gompka,
Just wanted to thank you for the advice. It looks like we both have the same problem. Did you ever change you TPS or MAF sensor and if so did that correct the proble???
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Old Jun 17, 2004 | 09:21 AM
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Redstar, I recently read a service data sheet that said that some errors related to the TPS (error code 41 for OBDI Lexus cars) are minor and will not light the check engine light. You may find error codes even though the light did not illuminate (at least according to the document that I read).

My GS has a strange issue when it is cold. The idle gets a little erratic and the check engine light comes on momentarily, then goes away. My brother ran the diagnostic last weekend and we found error code 41, so it's time for me to clean or replace the TPS.
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Old Jun 17, 2004 | 09:25 AM
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Originally posted by link13
Redstar, I recently read a service data sheet that said that some errors related to the TPS (error code 41 for OBDI Lexus cars) are minor and will not light the check engine light. You may find error codes even though the light did not illuminate (at least according to the document that I read).

My GS has a strange issue when it is cold. The idle gets a little erratic and the check engine light comes on momentarily, then goes away. My brother ran the diagnostic last weekend and we found error code 41, so it's time for me to clean or replace the TPS.
Link13
Thanks for the heads up on the TPS sensor. I will be replacing it this weekend. I will let you know the outcome afterwards.....
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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 10:33 AM
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Redstar, you should try to run the diagnostic before you replace the TPS sensor. Even if the CEL did not light up, there should be an error code 41 stored in the ECU if there is indeed a problem with the TPS. If you do see error code 41, it may be worthwhile to see if the TPS can be cleaned instead of replaced. I think the TPS is not particularly cheap and I don't want you to waste your money based on the experiences of a random person (me) on the internet.
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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 12:41 PM
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If there is no error code, you can still check the TPS this way:

As far as checking the TP sensor goes, you'll need an ohm-meter with aligator clips. On the sensor, there are four pins. The top one is the ground (keep the negative side of the ohm-sensor connected to this pin). The three other pins are the ones where you'll connect the positive side of the ohm-sensor to. Turn the key so all the lights in the dash turn on but don't start the car.

Connect the positive side of the ohm-meter to the second pin. The second pin must produce .5k ohms or less. This pin tells the computer to idle.

The third pin ranges between 2.4 - 11.2k ohms. Slowly open the throttle so you can see if the ohms climb from 2.4 to 11.2k ohms (it must climb at the same rate that you open the throttle). This sensor tells the computer how wide the throttle is open.

The fourth pin ranges between 3.1 - 7.2k ohms. Do the same procedure as the third pin to make sure it climbs from 3.1- 7.2k ohms as you slowly open the throttle.

These specs also apply to the sub-TP sensor, but the pins are upside-down (the bottom pin is the negative, etc.). If any of the readings are off, the sensor could be bad. Maybe the sensor is not adjusted properly.

You can adjust the sensor by loosening the two phillip screws that hold it in. Using the ohm-meter, attach the negative wire to the top pin. Attach the positive to the second pin. Move the sensor counter-clockwise until it stops. Now gradually move the sensor clockwise until the ohm-meter deflects. Now tighten the screws.

Now recheck the pins again to make sure the ohms are in the proper ranges. If they still aren't, the sensor is most likely bad. I obtained this information from a schematic, number EG-238 to EG-249.
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Old Jun 18, 2004 | 12:51 PM
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Originally posted by 93LexoGS300
If there is no error code, you can still check the TPS this way:

Thanks!!!! That info is excellent. I will post my results for you guys. Unfortunately I won't be able to do it till next week. I'm heading over to Austin, TX for business and I'll be back next monday on the 28th..
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Old Jul 15, 2004 | 04:07 PM
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If there is no error code, you can still check the TPS this way:
Thanks Eric, that's great info. I rana test on Link 13s TPS the other night, and the readings were all over the place. Pin #2 didn't give any resistance reading at all, but it would deflect when I adjusted the TPS. I have had similar issues with my AW11 MR2 TPS.... seems to be an old Toyota thing!

My brother (Link 13) ordered a new TPS today. I will get it lashed on there this weekend and we'll see how it goes.
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