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Geiger counter noise

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Old Mar 2, 2025 | 09:43 PM
  #46  
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I was just looking at the fuse box layout that I saved from Sept. 2024.

I see a fuse for the radio but I'm not sure how that would help me?
If anything, a fuse for the amp that powers the radio would help.

But just disabling the radio would prevent me from using the radio, that's it.
Unless that fuse does more than just the label says.
Does anyone know?



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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 06:41 AM
  #47  
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Ok...Just listened to your tick. From what I have seen in past is an amp can do that but it is more of a lower frequency like a pop. Pull radio fuse and see what happens unless you are 100% sure coming from speaker. Could be newer amps can cause the higher frequency tick. You could just unplug amp also and ESh should be able to tell you location. If it is coming from speaker it most likely is amp especially with volume down.
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 12:28 PM
  #48  
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The amplifier is under the front left seat.
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by alextv
Ok...Just listened to your tick. From what I have seen in past is an amp can do that but it is more of a lower frequency like a pop. Pull radio fuse and see what happens unless you are 100% sure coming from speaker. Could be newer amps can cause the higher frequency tick. You could just unplug amp also and ESh should be able to tell you location. If it is coming from speaker it most likely is amp especially with volume down.
It seems we are on different frequencies talking past each other.
Pull radio fuse and see what happens unless you are 100% sure coming from speaker.
I can pull the radio fuse but want to understand what that alone would achieve?
You talk about radio vs. speaker.
The two are tied together.
If your speaker isn't connected you won't hear the radio.
If the radio isn't connected (pulled fuse) what happens when you push the radio button?
Nothing, or the amp still kicks in with the speaker but there is no audio to play?

You ask if I am 100% sure the sound is coming from the speaker. Yes I am.
What I want to know is why disabling the radio by pulling the fuse would affect the sound I am hearing?
It seems to me I want to disable the amp, not the radio.

Could be newer amps can cause the higher frequency tick
First of all this is not a high freq. tick. It is mid freq.
Why would it sound though if the radio isn't turned on (thus the amp isn't turned on)?
I hear the sound when the radio is turned off.

You could just unplug amp also and ESh should be able to tell you location.
Now this one is action-packed.
1. What has the amp got to do with my location?
2. Where/how does ESh tell my location?
3. I don't drive an ESh.
4. How would I unplug the amp without doing major car surgery? Or is it easy to unplug in the trunk somewhere?

If it is coming from speaker it most likely is amp especially with volume down
Yes, I am leaning towards this. But question. You talk about volume down.
How do I adjust amp volume if I am not using the radio or any music player?

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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 12:31 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by ESh
The amplifier is under the front left seat.
Is it easy to unplug?
Would it affect all audio (radio, music players etc.)?
How about beeps?
How about voice notifications?
Anything else?
I know it would be temporary as a test, but I'd still like to know what if affects.
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 12:54 PM
  #51  
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You will have the beeps and voice notifications.
My idea was to unplug and to check if you hear these noises.
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Old Mar 3, 2025 | 01:11 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by ESh
You will have the beeps and voice notifications.
My idea was to unplug and to check if you hear these noises.
OK yes I understand the reason. I think I will attempt this next.
It should be easy to do.
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Old Mar 4, 2025 | 06:40 AM
  #53  
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If you don't see an amp fuse the radio fuse is most likely for the audio system. Without a schematic it is hard to be 100% sure but worth an easy try or just unplug the amp. Location is where the amp is located. Don't remember your mentioning radio is off with that tick. Input to amp is off but amp is still alive and that is most likely the problem. I have replaced power packs inside amps many times for that problem. I would always verify with a signal tracer coming out of the amp as it could also be a loose connector.
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Old Mar 4, 2025 | 11:50 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by alextv
If you don't see an amp fuse the radio fuse is most likely for the audio system. Without a schematic it is hard to be 100% sure but worth an easy try or just unplug the amp. ...
In the lexusguide.net Lexus ES (XZ10) Service Manual, you can find a System Diagram for the base 10 speaker system and the (Mark Levinson) 17 speaker system (scroll down toward the bottom of that web page for the speaker system diagrams). In the diagram for the base 10 speaker system there's an AMP NO. 2 fuse shown for the "Stereo Component Amplifier Assembly" and for the the (Mark Levinson) 17 speaker system there's an AMP NO. 1 and AMP NO. 2 fuse shown for the "Stereo Component Amplifier Assembly". If you look at the fuse diagram printed on the inside of the engine compartment's Type A fuse box (the one on the US/left hand drive passenger's side) you'll see the AMP NO. 1 and AMP NO. 2 fuse locations (labeled for 30A fuses).

Connector G11 is the Stereo Component Amplifier Assembly's connector through which all power is input and the 10 or 17 speaker output signals are output.
See TERMINALS OF ECU (scroll down the page about half way to see the G11 connector info) where you can find connector G11 pin numbers associated with the system diagram signal labels along with a G11 connector diagram showing pin number locations. (The pin locations with a "*2" are only used for the (Mark Levinson) 17 speaker system.)
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Old Mar 4, 2025 | 01:59 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by grp52
In the lexusguide.net Lexus ES (XZ10) Service Manual, you can find a System Diagram for the base 10 speaker system and the (Mark Levinson) 17 speaker system (scroll down toward the bottom of that web page for the speaker system diagrams). In the diagram for the base 10 speaker system there's an AMP NO. 2 fuse shown for the "Stereo Component Amplifier Assembly" and for the the (Mark Levinson) 17 speaker system there's an AMP NO. 1 and AMP NO. 2 fuse shown for the "Stereo Component Amplifier Assembly". If you look at the fuse diagram printed on the inside of the engine compartment's Type A fuse box (the one on the US/left hand drive passenger's side) you'll see the AMP NO. 1 and AMP NO. 2 fuse locations (labeled for 30A fuses)...
Thanks grp52 your post is very helpful.

I had actually removed the radio fuse last night as my first stab at this. I haven't driven my car since I
removed it but don't think it would do anything except disable the radio.

I think getting to the amp is the way to go.

Some questions. I have found the fuse box you are mentioning above.
It isn't clear from your post as to which fuse AMP NO. 1, or NO.2 needs to be removed?
Should I remove NO. 1 or NO 2, or both?

I don't have the Mark Levinson 17 speaker system in my car.
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Old Mar 4, 2025 | 02:28 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by NoiseFree
...
Some questions. I have found the fuse box you are mentioning above.
It isn't clear from your post as to which fuse AMP NO. 1, or NO.2 needs to be removed?
Should I remove NO. 1 or NO 2, or both?

I don't have the Mark Levinson 17 speaker system in my car.
I don't have access to a base 10 speaker system to verify it but I think there'll only be an AMP NO. 2 fuse to remove and the AMP NO. 1 location won't have a fuse in it since there'll be nothing on that circuit to supply power to.

That's how other fuse box diagram labeled fuse locations that don't have anything on that specific circuit to power are handled. On the Type A fuse box diagram there's "S/HTR R/R" and "S/HTR R/L" (seat heater rear right and rear left) labeled fuse locations whose fuse slots are empty because US and Canadian sold ESs aren't equipped with that feature.
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Old Mar 4, 2025 | 02:49 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by grp52
I don't have access to a base 10 speaker system to verify it but I think there'll only be an AMP NO. 2 fuse to remove and the AMP NO. 1 location won't have a fuse in it since there'll be nothing on that circuit to supply power to.

That's how other fuse box diagram labeled fuse locations that don't have anything on that specific circuit to power are handled. On the Type A fuse box diagram there's "S/HTR R/R" and "S/HTR R/L" (seat heater rear right and rear left) labeled fuse locations whose fuse slots are empty because US and Canadian sold ESs aren't equipped with that feature.
OK thanks. You were right, there was only the AMP NO. 2 fuse there.
I removed it and will probably do my test drive tomorrow.
Besides checking for the clicking sound, what other things should I notice?
Will my radio/sound system be disabled?



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Old Mar 5, 2025 | 06:40 AM
  #58  
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Great research grp52 you are an asset to this forum.
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Old Mar 5, 2025 | 12:46 PM
  #59  
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Well today was the big day. I was all psyched up. Hoping the pulled amp fuse would do the deed.
But alas, it was not meant to be.

My radio was knocked out, as expected. But the Geiger counter sound was still there.

I guess we need to move on to plan B now?
Any suggestions?

BTW, as before, the sound was coming from the same back left speaker.
Unless there is a speaker over and to the back of my left shoulder?
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Old Mar 5, 2025 | 01:35 PM
  #60  
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Please disconnect all the wires from the amplifier, or remove the rear panel and disconnect the speaker only.

One more thing, cover the rear speaker mesh with ducktape or something like that and then listen if the frequency of the sound is changed.

Last edited by ESh; Mar 5, 2025 at 01:37 PM.
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