what kind of oil in 2013 ES?
06-05-17, 05:30 AM
#46
Lead Lap
I must you a different search engine than you. Every test that I have seen/read states synthetic is better. The question however is it that much better considering the cost. Mobil 1 at Walmart is $23 for a five quart jug with a recommended change every 10,000 miles. Their least expensive brand of conventional oil which is their brand Supertech is $11.44. If this is changed every 5,000 miles the price is the same. If synthetic is not better why do car manufacturers recommend 5,000 miles for conventional and 10,000 miles for synthetic. I always revert back to two MIT graduates who happen to have had their own syndicated radio show Car Talk for decades who know a little about autos. From their site, "In my experience, and in legitimate testing, synthetic oil consistently performs better than dinosaur-bone oil. It lubricates better, makes engines last longer, improves mileage and takes longer to break down under the heat of engine use. A number of supposedly informed people say you can go nearly twice as long between oil changes with synthetic. If you did that, the cost would be the same over the life of the car".
06-05-17, 05:32 AM
#47
Lexus Fanatic
The reason Lexus went to the 0W20 is twofold.
1. Fuel economy. The thinner oil promotes better fuel economy. Ever bought a bottle of Mobil 1 0W20? It says "ADVANCED FUEL ECONOMY" on the bottle.
2. Oil change interval. 0W20 is always a synthetic oil, there is no conventional or blend 0W20. Lexus has had issues with oil sludge when extending oil change intervals in the past, and they were under competitive pressure to extend them to 10k. Requiring 0W20 ensures that consumers use synthetic oil, which resists sludge and felling much better.
So, if you really want to use a conventional oil you can, I would change it every 5k miles though for sure. If you care about your car though, I would spend a couple extra dollars and get synthetic oil. Plus there's the warranty, if you ever had a sludge related or oil related warranty claim using 5W30 conventional will definitely void the warranty.
1. Fuel economy. The thinner oil promotes better fuel economy. Ever bought a bottle of Mobil 1 0W20? It says "ADVANCED FUEL ECONOMY" on the bottle.
2. Oil change interval. 0W20 is always a synthetic oil, there is no conventional or blend 0W20. Lexus has had issues with oil sludge when extending oil change intervals in the past, and they were under competitive pressure to extend them to 10k. Requiring 0W20 ensures that consumers use synthetic oil, which resists sludge and felling much better.
So, if you really want to use a conventional oil you can, I would change it every 5k miles though for sure. If you care about your car though, I would spend a couple extra dollars and get synthetic oil. Plus there's the warranty, if you ever had a sludge related or oil related warranty claim using 5W30 conventional will definitely void the warranty.
06-05-17, 08:49 AM
#48
Lexus Test Driver
The reason Lexus went to the 0W20 is twofold.
1. Fuel economy. The thinner oil promotes better fuel economy. Ever bought a bottle of Mobil 1 0W20? It says "ADVANCED FUEL ECONOMY" on the bottle.
2. Oil change interval. 0W20 is always a synthetic oil, there is no conventional or blend 0W20. Lexus has had issues with oil sludge when extending oil change intervals in the past, and they were under competitive pressure to extend them to 10k. Requiring 0W20 ensures that consumers use synthetic oil, which resists sludge and felling much better.
So, if you really want to use a conventional oil you can, I would change it every 5k miles though for sure. If you care about your car though, I would spend a couple extra dollars and get synthetic oil. Plus there's the warranty, if you ever had a sludge related or oil related warranty claim using 5W30 conventional will definitely void the warranty.
1. Fuel economy. The thinner oil promotes better fuel economy. Ever bought a bottle of Mobil 1 0W20? It says "ADVANCED FUEL ECONOMY" on the bottle.
2. Oil change interval. 0W20 is always a synthetic oil, there is no conventional or blend 0W20. Lexus has had issues with oil sludge when extending oil change intervals in the past, and they were under competitive pressure to extend them to 10k. Requiring 0W20 ensures that consumers use synthetic oil, which resists sludge and felling much better.
So, if you really want to use a conventional oil you can, I would change it every 5k miles though for sure. If you care about your car though, I would spend a couple extra dollars and get synthetic oil. Plus there's the warranty, if you ever had a sludge related or oil related warranty claim using 5W30 conventional will definitely void the warranty.
06-05-17, 10:41 AM
#49
Lexus Fanatic
There are a few 0w20 synthetic blends Steve - not many, but a few.
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Genuine.../dp/B015MN06ZI
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Genuine.../dp/B015MN06ZI
Theres also the whole question as to what defines "full synthetic" and "synthetic blend". FWIW, Lexus does not specify "synthetic oil" be used, only that "0W20" be used.
06-09-17, 10:34 AM
#51
Lexus Test Driver
As can be seen in the above link, 0w20s are also available and for sale in synthetic blend formulations. Not as plentiful as full synthetics, but a number of oil producers offer them. There are also differing opinions, at least here in the U.S., just how "full", full synthetic oils really are.
06-14-17, 10:13 AM
#52
ok, few things to address here, Mobil 1, is not a sythetic oil, lol.
Lexus wanted a 0W20 to reduce fuel dilution during start up as they went out to 10K intervals, which is absurd. every UOA I've seen on a Lexus with the 10K interval is not doing well. Even M1 can't go that long without a few extra steps.
M1EP would handle the 10K better. using a WIX XP filter will greatly improve results. If I had to put a blanket statement on the OCI, I'd say 7,500 miles on M1EP is where I'd go.
That dealer blend stuff they sell is absolutely horrible. If you can't access other oils, M1EP would be the way to go
Lexus wanted a 0W20 to reduce fuel dilution during start up as they went out to 10K intervals, which is absurd. every UOA I've seen on a Lexus with the 10K interval is not doing well. Even M1 can't go that long without a few extra steps.
M1EP would handle the 10K better. using a WIX XP filter will greatly improve results. If I had to put a blanket statement on the OCI, I'd say 7,500 miles on M1EP is where I'd go.
That dealer blend stuff they sell is absolutely horrible. If you can't access other oils, M1EP would be the way to go
06-14-17, 11:58 AM
#53
Pole Position
My service manager told me if one comes in and buys oil they get Toyota synthetic which is manufactured by Mobil. The oil they use is in drums and is an off brand of synthetic. This is why also for cost, I bring my own Mobil 1 and Toyota oil filter when I get an oil change.
06-14-17, 12:50 PM
#54
My service manager told me if one comes in and buys oil they get Toyota synthetic which is manufactured by Mobil. The oil they use is in drums and is an off brand of synthetic. This is why also for cost, I bring my own Mobil 1 and Toyota oil filter when I get an oil change.
06-14-17, 01:17 PM
#55
Lead Lap
Please explain to those of us that are uninformed regarding oil quality, branding (full synthetic is not synthetic) and what you meant by certain cars "not doing well" because they use dealer oil when changed. Also, what is UOA and what "few extra steps" are necessary when using Mobil 1. Thanks...
06-14-17, 01:28 PM
#56
UOA - used oil analysis
Oil branding - example M1 is called synthetic but it's a Group III blended oil, a Group III is scientifcally speaking not a synthetic oil, not like Group IV and V.
I see these cars going to 10,000K and you can see the motor taking a hit because of all the fuel dilution in the oil, it begins to affect everything over time. Also, the filters are not capable of handling 10K. The dealer blends base stocks are too low by the time they reach 10K and the oil has become acidic causing formations and other things.
I recommend the M1EP with a WIX XP filter and a new engine air filter, Shell fuel when possible, if you're only going to do off the shelf oil and maintenance every 10K.
Oil branding - example M1 is called synthetic but it's a Group III blended oil, a Group III is scientifcally speaking not a synthetic oil, not like Group IV and V.
I see these cars going to 10,000K and you can see the motor taking a hit because of all the fuel dilution in the oil, it begins to affect everything over time. Also, the filters are not capable of handling 10K. The dealer blends base stocks are too low by the time they reach 10K and the oil has become acidic causing formations and other things.
I recommend the M1EP with a WIX XP filter and a new engine air filter, Shell fuel when possible, if you're only going to do off the shelf oil and maintenance every 10K.
06-14-17, 01:50 PM
#57
Lead Lap
UOA - used oil analysis
Oil branding - example M1 is called synthetic but it's a Group III blended oil, a Group III is scientifcally speaking not a synthetic oil, not like Group IV and V.
I see these cars going to 10,000K and you can see the motor taking a hit because of all the fuel dilution in the oil, it begins to affect everything over time. Also, the filters are not capable of handling 10K. The dealer blends base stocks are too low by the time they reach 10K and the oil has become acidic causing formations and other things.
I recommend the M1EP with a WIX XP filter and a new engine air filter, Shell fuel when possible, if you're only going to do off the shelf oil and maintenance every 10K.
Oil branding - example M1 is called synthetic but it's a Group III blended oil, a Group III is scientifcally speaking not a synthetic oil, not like Group IV and V.
I see these cars going to 10,000K and you can see the motor taking a hit because of all the fuel dilution in the oil, it begins to affect everything over time. Also, the filters are not capable of handling 10K. The dealer blends base stocks are too low by the time they reach 10K and the oil has become acidic causing formations and other things.
I recommend the M1EP with a WIX XP filter and a new engine air filter, Shell fuel when possible, if you're only going to do off the shelf oil and maintenance every 10K.
06-14-17, 01:53 PM
#58
Lexus Test Driver
Please explain to those of us that are uninformed regarding oil quality, branding (full synthetic is not synthetic) and what you meant by certain cars "not doing well" because they use dealer oil when changed. Also, what is UOA and what "few extra steps" are necessary when using Mobil 1. Thanks...
Update: Posted this before I saw Daniel's Post #56 where he elaborated a bit.
Last edited by gmanusmc; 06-14-17 at 01:58 PM.
06-14-17, 02:00 PM
#59
Holy moly - I guess Exxon Mobil is in deep legal trouble for selling all that oil that is not synthetic "lol" as full synthetic for several decades. Not sure where Daniel is coming from because his posts have very little info - he might be alluding to Mobil1 not technically being a Group IV or V synthetic oil. From what I have read on bobistheoilguy.com (Bitog) in the U.S., the threshold for allowing oils to be identified as "full synthetic" is not as stringent as it is in other locations. Bitog is a reputable website with a lot of great info about lubricants. There is a section where folks post used oil analyses and actual performance results of particular oils used in particular vehicles can be viewed and readers can form their own opinion on how good they think a specific oil is.
BITOG has gone down hill honestly, they're so bought out it's not even funny. Lots of people banned for saying things against "what the sponsors like to hear" & the "sponsors don't like what you're saying". It's why BITOG should have stayed independent in the first place, they would have had credibility in the oil world. But.......if I was offered a few mil a year to shut up and advertise Shell products..........gulp.......
06-20-17, 12:39 AM
#60
I think 10k can only be done with a good 0w20 synthetic. Penzoil, Mobil 1, Amsoil, Toyota.
Personally, I would not go 10k though I have on one change. I think 8k is safe. Dealer says can even go over 10k.
More info: "Full Synthetic" is not 100% synthetic. Most oils are a full synthetic including (I suspect) Toyota oil.
I think there are only a few 100% synthetics out there. One is Amsoil - the inventor of synthetic motor oil, another is I think Mobil 1 in the special cylindrical can. Not sure of others. My next oil change will be with Amsoil. They supposedly guarantee 25,000 miles on their signature 100% synthetic oil. I will not go that far but will try 10k miles on that one.
Personally, I would not go 10k though I have on one change. I think 8k is safe. Dealer says can even go over 10k.
More info: "Full Synthetic" is not 100% synthetic. Most oils are a full synthetic including (I suspect) Toyota oil.
I think there are only a few 100% synthetics out there. One is Amsoil - the inventor of synthetic motor oil, another is I think Mobil 1 in the special cylindrical can. Not sure of others. My next oil change will be with Amsoil. They supposedly guarantee 25,000 miles on their signature 100% synthetic oil. I will not go that far but will try 10k miles on that one.