All,
i just did the spark plug replacement on the ES350 5th gen. Some of the plugs had a sticky oil residue on the threads. I cleaned them up a bit so the new plugs would torque in right but with coils showing no evidence of oil and the wells clean, the plugs not foulwd, where does this residue come from? The photo is inverted. 1,2,3 are the easy ones near the front of the car.
Do these coil packs have serviceable springs? There was some whitishness on a coupe of the boots.
Thanks for your attention

 

The material on the plug threads is most likely an anti-seize so the plugs will come out easier . You should use a similar thread anti-seize when you install the new plugs to prevent stripping the threads . Usually standard procedures used at time of replacement.

 

I wasn't thinking antisieze because I believe these were the factory plugs. The local toyota dealer does not use antisieze, News to me was that NGK does not recommend using antisieze because it acts like a lubricant and messes with the torque values set by a dry thread. The torque values for these is low at 13ft lbs so making it slip easier would allow more of a turn before full torque possibly stressing the threads in the head. I am cautious because when torqing connecting rod nuts on a Saturn, I stretched the bolts before reaching torque.
From what I have read, the shiny threads of the spark plug are specially coated to eliminate the need for antisieze but the plugs which have black threads antisieze is recommended.
Anyway it could be but it is so uneven and this car has been serviced at Lexus prior to my owning it I was suspicious of antisieze. Thanks for your thoughts.

 

Torque is torque regardless if you use anti seize. Aluminum heads with steel plugs don't match up so well especially when you leave them in for 100K miles. All you need is a spot about the size of a BB which will do the job. When the threads are bottomed out you don't get any extra turn as the torque setting will be correctly set. If this is going to be your last plug change then it doesn't matter if you use anti seize or not as the next owner will get what you left. As for the dealer they work quick and cheaply so it saves them money. Go ask an indy if they use anti seize nd most likely they will tell you they always do. So my net here is do what you want to do as it's your car.

 

Statements about anti-seize are not accurate. When using anti-seize, and any other lubricant for that matter, you will reach the target torque (like someone said "torque is torque") but the angle will be higher for the lubricated joint compared to the same but dry joint. For spark plugs specifically, this could lead to elongation of the plug, breaking, and quasi over-torque condition.

I didn't lube the plugs on mine. I changed them at ~120K and I don't plan to change them ever again

 

Sorry but torque is torque. If you use a "click" type torque wrench it will go off at the set limit regardless of having no or some anti-seize. Torque settings are set to stretch the threads which lock them in. I don't believe that spark plugs have a torque angle listed. If they do then then use it if not then just use the torque range. I also don't think most back yard mechanics have an angle gauge or a combo torque/angle wrench. Hey then again use what makes you feel good.

 

The target torque is based on the part / thread design and on assumption that the threads are dry on both mating surfaces, and angle is a part of that calculation. Designer would create a torque spec assuming that service would not apply a lubricant (anti-seize) and thus wouldn't list the angle nor torque with lubed threads...

My point is that people shouldn't just slap on grease and anti-seize on their plugs as they may over-rotate them during installation and potentially over-stretch the threads. And yes of course, we all do whatever we feel is right with our cars

 

Not true so we'll agree to disagree. Enjoy the day.

 

Could you address why you dismiss NGK specific statement to not use antisieze?

 

NGK does recommend not using anti-seize because they believe their special coating will prevent gauling of the threads or corrosion which will cause problems when removing. The dark color of your threads is that coating . The fear that NGK talks of is more liability then technical. If you read their information they speak to possibility of over torquing . They are concerned that people aren't smart enough to know how to use a torque wrench and will over torque and blame their product. They also are concerned that you put to much anti-seize on and get some on the electrode causing a miss fire. It is all based on people doing work and not knowing how to do it. Also unless you turn wrenches for a living most DIY'ers don't use a torque wrench when installing plugs or even know the correct torque setting. So if this is the last time you'll change your plugs (100K) then install them dry and let the next guy worry if it's a problem. Part of the problem here is other mfg. recommend anti-seize in aluminum heads so this is a standing open discussion.

 

Here is a nice summary that I found on this topic:

http://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com...-plug-threads/

 

The automotive world over the last 10-20 years have continued to provide methods to eliminate stupid people from working on their cars. Some changes are blamed/related to safety and others are for people who aren't knowledgeable or are lazy. More and more of today's young drivers don't care about how and what makes a car run. Dealers and indy's fill that void while the youth is more concerned about the number of their "likes". Things like TPMS , no dipstick , side warnings , keyless entry , radar stop systems reduction of gauges and so on. When we get to driverless cars then we can start removing peoples arms and legs. Tell it to Alexia and all you need to do is sit home. For those who know how to fix things , good for you .

 

LOL, but so true

I talked to a young engineering graduate yesterday, and he was soooo excited about driving his new Prius The most exciting points were all those gadgets you mentioned and great mpg. When I get to the point when driving becomes numb like that I will take public transportation

 

Thanks for posting that. I found interesting the Autolite insight that adding antisieze when using crush washers could allow more of a crush and deeper penetration into the head.

 

Yeah, which makes sense as the crush washer acts as a spacer and compressing it more would effectively move the tip more inboard...