What things need to be replaced at 120k miles for ES 350?
10-08-18, 09:41 PM
#1
10th Gear
Thread Starter
What things need to be replaced at 120k miles for ES 350?
Hello everyone, I'm a new owner. I bought my 2007 Lexus ES350 1 month ago, the car is 116k when I got it. It has ultra luxury package, clean car fax, and has over 20+ maintainence records with local Lexus dealership on the carfax. But there are few dents and scraches on the car. Owner has changed brakes and roters, but not tires. I got it for $7000. I'm not sure if that a good deal.
The car drive very smooth since I bought, but the only problem is the steering wheel start to vibrate and shaking when the car hit 70 mph on the highway. (the car was fine when accelerating and run below 70 mph) I went to the local mechanics, they said the tire is worn out, and I shoud be fine after change the tires. I already order 4 tires at Sam's club last week. I will install the tires tomorrow, I'm not sure if tires are the issues, because I saw I lot of posts in this forum has the same problem, usually caused by bad axels and drive shaft, I'm not sure if I also need to change those items.
Since my car is very near to 120k, I was doing some reserches on the forum and I saw people gave a lot of suggestions on things need to be replaced. I will list the suggestions below
(
I know spark plugs must be done at 120k since it was listed on the owner's manual, So I already ordered 6 OEM spark plugs on ebay for aroudn 20 bucks (i'm not sure if this price is reasonable) other than the spark plugs, I'm not sure what else need to be done, since the car drives very smooths right now. (other than the vibration at 70mph) I don't want to spend too much unnecessary money because I just graduate from college and short on budget. But I also don't want to break the car if I missed some required services. Can someone please give me some advice on if I should replace these listed items? Very appreciated, and sorry for my bad english, hope you guys can understand.
The car drive very smooth since I bought, but the only problem is the steering wheel start to vibrate and shaking when the car hit 70 mph on the highway. (the car was fine when accelerating and run below 70 mph) I went to the local mechanics, they said the tire is worn out, and I shoud be fine after change the tires. I already order 4 tires at Sam's club last week. I will install the tires tomorrow, I'm not sure if tires are the issues, because I saw I lot of posts in this forum has the same problem, usually caused by bad axels and drive shaft, I'm not sure if I also need to change those items.
Since my car is very near to 120k, I was doing some reserches on the forum and I saw people gave a lot of suggestions on things need to be replaced. I will list the suggestions below
(
- Engine coolant
- Engine oil and oil filter
- Transmission fluid,Brake fluid,Power steering, Brake Flush
- Ignition coil
- water pump
- Engine oil filter
- Alternator
- Fuel filter
- radiator
- Spark plugs and spark plugs coils
- ball joints
I know spark plugs must be done at 120k since it was listed on the owner's manual, So I already ordered 6 OEM spark plugs on ebay for aroudn 20 bucks (i'm not sure if this price is reasonable) other than the spark plugs, I'm not sure what else need to be done, since the car drives very smooths right now. (other than the vibration at 70mph) I don't want to spend too much unnecessary money because I just graduate from college and short on budget. But I also don't want to break the car if I missed some required services. Can someone please give me some advice on if I should replace these listed items? Very appreciated, and sorry for my bad english, hope you guys can understand.
10-08-18, 11:00 PM
#2
Congratulations sounds like a nice car. When they replace the tires ask them to let you know if anything looks worn in the front. Could be worn suspension parts like tie rod ends but could just be bad tires. Obviously if the oil is dirty change that and check your air filter/ cabin filter. The spark plugs are bit of a ***** especially the rear ones on this car, look it up here you’ll see the video. There’s a plenum gasket your going to have to replace as you take the top intake part I think it is apart to get to the rear spark plugs good thing it’s a $7 part. Also replace the pcv valve as your in there another cheap part. Some people swap out the three rear ignition coils at this point because it’s a ***** to get too but they are expensive. The front ones are easy to get to if they go bad down the line. Transmission fluid is a hot topic item, hopefully previous owner did a flush if not read up and decide what you want to do. A coolant flush isn’t a bad idea but any of the other things I don’t think you should replace unless they go bad first. Whenever you have some free money you can flush the brake/power steering fluid but I don’t think you have to them right away.
10-09-18, 05:06 AM
#4
Also OEM spark plug is 90919-01247 about $10-13 each.
I would replace:
Engine oil with filter
Transmission oil with filter
Brake fluid
Air filter, cabin filter, fuel filter
Spark plugs
Coolant
Power steering fluid
Serpentine belt with all the bearings for the rollers
Nothing else.
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Totis (11-04-23)
10-09-18, 07:30 AM
#5
10th Gear
Thread Starter
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Pcs-New-G...53.m2749.l2649
Hi，I bought it from here, 6 for only $22, I'm not sure if I bought the fake one.
Hi，I bought it from here, 6 for only $22, I'm not sure if I bought the fake one.
Also OEM spark plug is 90919-01247 about $10-13 each.
10-09-18, 07:36 AM
#6
10th Gear
Thread Starter
Thank you for your reply, so you suggest is replace 6 plenum gasket, 6 pc valve and 6 rear ignition coils when change the spark plugs? I will order them online right now.
10-09-18, 07:42 AM
#7
I am from the "if it ain't broke - don't fix" camp. My thoughts are: oil change (so to set the "zero point"), same with intake and cabin filters, and spark plugs as they are due at 120K. That's it...
Unless something else is broken, I wouldn't touch it, esp since you are on tight budget...
Unless something else is broken, I wouldn't touch it, esp since you are on tight budget...
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10-09-18, 07:44 AM
#8
10th Gear
Thread Starter
I am from the "if it ain't broke - don't fix" camp. My thoughts are: oil change (so to set the "zero point"), same with intake and cabin filters, and spark plugs as they are due at 120K. That's it...
Unless something else is broken, I wouldn't touch it, esp since you are on tight budget...
Unless something else is broken, I wouldn't touch it, esp since you are on tight budget...
10-09-18, 09:30 AM
#9
You don’t have to do everything at once. Change the oil, and filters. Once you get new tires installed check to see if you need an alignment and or any front suspension parts changed to ensure you don’t mess up your new tires. Then little by little take care of the other stuff. Im a big believer of preventative maintenance but it can get expensive quick. Remember there’s no need to do it all at once just make sure if something starts acting up have it looked at before it becomes a big issue.
10-09-18, 10:37 AM
#10
10-13-18, 05:49 PM
#12
Spark Plugs - if they they have not been changed, yours are overdue. Make sure the plugs you got on eBay are Iridium plugs. If not, plugs should be replaced at 50K. But, but plugs can be cleaned and re-gapped as long are the electrodes are not worn down too much.. On our always-garaged, easy-driven-by-wife, ES350, the gap on the plugs when changed at 115K was near .060 (OEM gap is .043). Engine ran fine but a wide gap taxes the ignition system. I would say max mileage for Iridium plugs on our ES models should be 100K.
Coolant. Appears overdue also. There are two drain ***** on the block to help drain the old stuff as much as possible. OEM red coolant, like OEM motor oil and OEM anything, is not necessary. Universal coolant will do the job as well. Read the label to make sure it is formulated for all makes/models. I put Walmart's SuperTech coolant in all our vehicles. I recently replaced OEM water pump in our ES350 as preventive maintenance, with 218K, and, from what I could see inside the block, it was clean. The water pump was also clean and shiny inside. The bearing did have a little play; so, i was glad I replaced it; took 7 hours but that's another story.
Trany Fluid - while it's not a bad idea to change ATF on a mileage schedule - so that it gets done, ATF should be changed when it becomes contaminated with a certain level of contaminants. For vehicles that tow or are driven hard, 40K may be a good time to flush; for vehicles in mild climates and not driven hard, the ATF may last up to 130K. Getting the ATF tested may be too much for most DIY'ers, but an accepted visual guide is to follow the color guide used by mechanics worldwide. ATF starts off reddish in color. When it gets dark brown, it's time to replace. You collect a small sample and dip a white towel to check the color. I did our first flush at 105K. 2nd flush at 157K included ATF filter replacement. 3rd flush was recently done, at 219K. ATF was quite dark brown the first time; lighter brown the next two flushes. ATF filter was quite dark when replaced; will replace again around 270K.
Alternator. This should last a long time, but the decoupler pulley should be serviced at 100K. I replaced our alt at 155K because the decoupler pulley froze and fried the alt. You will not see mentioned the decoupler pulley in the maintenance schedule, but I found out the hard way that it needs service. Gates recommends replacing it every 100K. The alt should periodically be checked by conducting a simple load test. Stick a voltage reader in cig lighter outlet. At idle with no load, the voltage should read 13.5 to 14.5 volts, ideally Turn on the headlights; place blower fan on high (but don't turn on the AC); and turn on fog lamps or wipers - total voltage drop should not be more than 1 volt, and if output is ever less than 12.6 volts with this load, the alt should be replaced.
Bearings. Remove the serpentine belt and check the bearings for play in the water pump, power steering pump, alternator, and idler/tensioner pulleys. There should be no play.
Brake and PS fluid flush. As with ATF, these fluids collect contaminants with mileage. PS fluid should be flushed every 60K miles (takes Dexron III ATF). Brake fluid about every 75K or when it turns dark as it should stay clear. PS uses ATF and will always look dark in the reservoir; so, pull the little dip stick and go by color - replace with it turns brown.
Water Pump. I've similar stories of the WP going bad with relatively low miles. I guess we got lucky as our OEM WP was good with just a little bearing play when replaced at 218K. Check the bearing for play and look at the weep hole for coolant leakage.
Did new tires fix your vibration issue?
Coolant. Appears overdue also. There are two drain ***** on the block to help drain the old stuff as much as possible. OEM red coolant, like OEM motor oil and OEM anything, is not necessary. Universal coolant will do the job as well. Read the label to make sure it is formulated for all makes/models. I put Walmart's SuperTech coolant in all our vehicles. I recently replaced OEM water pump in our ES350 as preventive maintenance, with 218K, and, from what I could see inside the block, it was clean. The water pump was also clean and shiny inside. The bearing did have a little play; so, i was glad I replaced it; took 7 hours but that's another story.
Trany Fluid - while it's not a bad idea to change ATF on a mileage schedule - so that it gets done, ATF should be changed when it becomes contaminated with a certain level of contaminants. For vehicles that tow or are driven hard, 40K may be a good time to flush; for vehicles in mild climates and not driven hard, the ATF may last up to 130K. Getting the ATF tested may be too much for most DIY'ers, but an accepted visual guide is to follow the color guide used by mechanics worldwide. ATF starts off reddish in color. When it gets dark brown, it's time to replace. You collect a small sample and dip a white towel to check the color. I did our first flush at 105K. 2nd flush at 157K included ATF filter replacement. 3rd flush was recently done, at 219K. ATF was quite dark brown the first time; lighter brown the next two flushes. ATF filter was quite dark when replaced; will replace again around 270K.
Alternator. This should last a long time, but the decoupler pulley should be serviced at 100K. I replaced our alt at 155K because the decoupler pulley froze and fried the alt. You will not see mentioned the decoupler pulley in the maintenance schedule, but I found out the hard way that it needs service. Gates recommends replacing it every 100K. The alt should periodically be checked by conducting a simple load test. Stick a voltage reader in cig lighter outlet. At idle with no load, the voltage should read 13.5 to 14.5 volts, ideally Turn on the headlights; place blower fan on high (but don't turn on the AC); and turn on fog lamps or wipers - total voltage drop should not be more than 1 volt, and if output is ever less than 12.6 volts with this load, the alt should be replaced.
Bearings. Remove the serpentine belt and check the bearings for play in the water pump, power steering pump, alternator, and idler/tensioner pulleys. There should be no play.
Brake and PS fluid flush. As with ATF, these fluids collect contaminants with mileage. PS fluid should be flushed every 60K miles (takes Dexron III ATF). Brake fluid about every 75K or when it turns dark as it should stay clear. PS uses ATF and will always look dark in the reservoir; so, pull the little dip stick and go by color - replace with it turns brown.
Water Pump. I've similar stories of the WP going bad with relatively low miles. I guess we got lucky as our OEM WP was good with just a little bearing play when replaced at 218K. Check the bearing for play and look at the weep hole for coolant leakage.
Did new tires fix your vibration issue?
10-14-18, 03:01 PM
#13
10th Gear
Thread Starter
Spark Plugs - if they they have not been changed, yours are overdue. Make sure the plugs you got on eBay are Iridium plugs. If not, plugs should be replaced at 50K. But, but plugs can be cleaned and re-gapped as long are the electrodes are not worn down too much.. On our always-garaged, easy-driven-by-wife, ES350, the gap on the plugs when changed at 115K was near .060 (OEM gap is .043). Engine ran fine but a wide gap taxes the ignition system. I would say max mileage for Iridium plugs on our ES models should be 100K.
Coolant. Appears overdue also. There are two drain ***** on the block to help drain the old stuff as much as possible. OEM red coolant, like OEM motor oil and OEM anything, is not necessary. Universal coolant will do the job as well. Read the label to make sure it is formulated for all makes/models. I put Walmart's SuperTech coolant in all our vehicles. I recently replaced OEM water pump in our ES350 as preventive maintenance, with 218K, and, from what I could see inside the block, it was clean. The water pump was also clean and shiny inside. The bearing did have a little play; so, i was glad I replaced it; took 7 hours but that's another story.
Trany Fluid - while it's not a bad idea to change ATF on a mileage schedule - so that it gets done, ATF should be changed when it becomes contaminated with a certain level of contaminants. For vehicles that tow or are driven hard, 40K may be a good time to flush; for vehicles in mild climates and not driven hard, the ATF may last up to 130K. Getting the ATF tested may be too much for most DIY'ers, but an accepted visual guide is to follow the color guide used by mechanics worldwide. ATF starts off reddish in color. When it gets dark brown, it's time to replace. You collect a small sample and dip a white towel to check the color. I did our first flush at 105K. 2nd flush at 157K included ATF filter replacement. 3rd flush was recently done, at 219K. ATF was quite dark brown the first time; lighter brown the next two flushes. ATF filter was quite dark when replaced; will replace again around 270K.
Alternator. This should last a long time, but the decoupler pulley should be serviced at 100K. I replaced our alt at 155K because the decoupler pulley froze and fried the alt. You will not see mentioned the decoupler pulley in the maintenance schedule, but I found out the hard way that it needs service. Gates recommends replacing it every 100K. The alt should periodically be checked by conducting a simple load test. Stick a voltage reader in cig lighter outlet. At idle with no load, the voltage should read 13.5 to 14.5 volts, ideally Turn on the headlights; place blower fan on high (but don't turn on the AC); and turn on fog lamps or wipers - total voltage drop should not be more than 1 volt, and if output is ever less than 12.6 volts with this load, the alt should be replaced.
Bearings. Remove the serpentine belt and check the bearings for play in the water pump, power steering pump, alternator, and idler/tensioner pulleys. There should be no play.
Brake and PS fluid flush. As with ATF, these fluids collect contaminants with mileage. PS fluid should be flushed every 60K miles (takes Dexron III ATF). Brake fluid about every 75K or when it turns dark as it should stay clear. PS uses ATF and will always look dark in the reservoir; so, pull the little dip stick and go by color - replace with it turns brown.
Water Pump. I've similar stories of the WP going bad with relatively low miles. I guess we got lucky as our OEM WP was good with just a little bearing play when replaced at 218K. Check the bearing for play and look at the weep hole for coolant leakage.
Did new tires fix your vibration issue?
Coolant. Appears overdue also. There are two drain ***** on the block to help drain the old stuff as much as possible. OEM red coolant, like OEM motor oil and OEM anything, is not necessary. Universal coolant will do the job as well. Read the label to make sure it is formulated for all makes/models. I put Walmart's SuperTech coolant in all our vehicles. I recently replaced OEM water pump in our ES350 as preventive maintenance, with 218K, and, from what I could see inside the block, it was clean. The water pump was also clean and shiny inside. The bearing did have a little play; so, i was glad I replaced it; took 7 hours but that's another story.
Trany Fluid - while it's not a bad idea to change ATF on a mileage schedule - so that it gets done, ATF should be changed when it becomes contaminated with a certain level of contaminants. For vehicles that tow or are driven hard, 40K may be a good time to flush; for vehicles in mild climates and not driven hard, the ATF may last up to 130K. Getting the ATF tested may be too much for most DIY'ers, but an accepted visual guide is to follow the color guide used by mechanics worldwide. ATF starts off reddish in color. When it gets dark brown, it's time to replace. You collect a small sample and dip a white towel to check the color. I did our first flush at 105K. 2nd flush at 157K included ATF filter replacement. 3rd flush was recently done, at 219K. ATF was quite dark brown the first time; lighter brown the next two flushes. ATF filter was quite dark when replaced; will replace again around 270K.
Alternator. This should last a long time, but the decoupler pulley should be serviced at 100K. I replaced our alt at 155K because the decoupler pulley froze and fried the alt. You will not see mentioned the decoupler pulley in the maintenance schedule, but I found out the hard way that it needs service. Gates recommends replacing it every 100K. The alt should periodically be checked by conducting a simple load test. Stick a voltage reader in cig lighter outlet. At idle with no load, the voltage should read 13.5 to 14.5 volts, ideally Turn on the headlights; place blower fan on high (but don't turn on the AC); and turn on fog lamps or wipers - total voltage drop should not be more than 1 volt, and if output is ever less than 12.6 volts with this load, the alt should be replaced.
Bearings. Remove the serpentine belt and check the bearings for play in the water pump, power steering pump, alternator, and idler/tensioner pulleys. There should be no play.
Brake and PS fluid flush. As with ATF, these fluids collect contaminants with mileage. PS fluid should be flushed every 60K miles (takes Dexron III ATF). Brake fluid about every 75K or when it turns dark as it should stay clear. PS uses ATF and will always look dark in the reservoir; so, pull the little dip stick and go by color - replace with it turns brown.
Water Pump. I've similar stories of the WP going bad with relatively low miles. I guess we got lucky as our OEM WP was good with just a little bearing play when replaced at 218K. Check the bearing for play and look at the weep hole for coolant leakage.
Did new tires fix your vibration issue?
1. Can I do ATF change instead of ATF flush? I heard so many theory that ATF flush will be harm for high-mileage transmission escially mine haven't do any ATF change/flush before. I'm planning to do ATF change right now, and continue it once a year.
2. I cound't find the OEM PS fluid on the user manual, so I bought mobile 1 synthetic ATF, because on the mobile 1 website it said the ATF is following DEXRON II quality level. (Can I use it for PS fluid? )
3. The vibration disappear after I changed new tires, but now I noticed there are unnoticeable grinding noise coming from the underneath of the car when I was driving on the highway. (over 60mph) The noise is very unnoticeable, I need to turn off all the music to catch the noise. There is no noise when I was driving below 50 mph, I'm wondering if this is normal?
10-14-18, 09:58 PM
#14
1. Yes, ATF flush on high mileage engines can be bad if the fluid is super dirty because the trany becomes dependent on the metallic contaminants in the fluid. If you flush out this fluid, the transmission will slip. The only way to know if the ATF should not be changed is to send an ATF sample to a lab for analysis. If you know that your car does not fall under sever service usage, you'll be OK to flush. The utube clip below elaborates a bit more, although Scotty says never to flush, but he is referring to commercial ATF flush machines.
2. It's in there; I remember seeing it. Unfortunately, you can't download the ES350 User Manual from the Lexus website; however, you can view the 07 Camry manual, which has the same V6 engine.
See page 378, https://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/docu...f/OM33748U.pdf . It calls for ATF Dexron II or III.
3. Hard to say without hearing it. Could be sticking caliper, wheel bearing, a bad bearing in a pulley, etc...
2. It's in there; I remember seeing it. Unfortunately, you can't download the ES350 User Manual from the Lexus website; however, you can view the 07 Camry manual, which has the same V6 engine.
See page 378, https://www.toyota.com/t3Portal/docu...f/OM33748U.pdf . It calls for ATF Dexron II or III.
3. Hard to say without hearing it. Could be sticking caliper, wheel bearing, a bad bearing in a pulley, etc...