ES and Camry struts the same?
#16
Advanced
Thread Starter
Stopped by the Toyota dealer today. Service manager hadn't returned my emails but apparently he's got some medical issues going on and is out. Got a little bit of the runaround from the service writer as he kept saying "you have a brand new suspension" not acknowledging that oem spec parts weren't used despite my request. Told me the service tech would take a test drive and check it out. The tech was nice and helpful. I explained that the parts are probably functioning correctly but are aftermarket and just won't ride the same. I explained that I had asked the service writer to use lexus parts and the tech gave me that eye roll reaction. He said he thought it was odd that the car's owner would want these aftermarket parts and not oem. Said he actually asked the service writer if this was correct and the service writer told him just to proceed. He seemed frustrated like there were ongoing issues with him.
Tech just verified that the ride was off and the problem was using the aftermarket parts. They said they would make it right, but the service writer was kind of ambiguous and hesitant. I think the only way to make this right would be for me to just pay the difference between the aftermarket parts and the parts that I had originally requested (likely from a 3rd party since dealer prices for oem will be marked up).
I also mentioned the 100% markup on the steering rack price from the local parts store and the service writer just denied it. I have a feeling that I might have to dispute the charge on my credit card which I've never done before.
On another note, Cardone steering rack replacements are pretty crumby. It really tightens up the steering and at times it almost feels like there's no PS at all. There's a place in South Carolina called Rackdoctor that sells remanufactured oem steering racks at a good price that I'm going to look into.
Tech just verified that the ride was off and the problem was using the aftermarket parts. They said they would make it right, but the service writer was kind of ambiguous and hesitant. I think the only way to make this right would be for me to just pay the difference between the aftermarket parts and the parts that I had originally requested (likely from a 3rd party since dealer prices for oem will be marked up).
I also mentioned the 100% markup on the steering rack price from the local parts store and the service writer just denied it. I have a feeling that I might have to dispute the charge on my credit card which I've never done before.
On another note, Cardone steering rack replacements are pretty crumby. It really tightens up the steering and at times it almost feels like there's no PS at all. There's a place in South Carolina called Rackdoctor that sells remanufactured oem steering racks at a good price that I'm going to look into.
Last edited by 12jimmyjam; 03-02-17 at 08:58 PM.
#17
Moderator
His attitude is because the service writers make all their money off commission. You may have been better off at a good independent shop.
#18
Driver School Candidate
I'm glad to hear that the dealer is willing to make it right. If you are getting new struts, that means that you are probably going to keep the car for at least another 70,000 miles. With that in mind, here is my advice
1) Get an OEM new rack or a low mileage, used rack from a rear-end collision if you really want to save money. Too may rebuild racks come from units that have failed catastrophically and have just been spray painted. A good steering rack is probably the second most important part of your car after your brakes. A new Lexus rack also comes with inner and outer tie rod ends which are about $500 OEM online. OEM part # 44200-33530
2) Replace your intermediate steering shaft. It had a design flaw and tended to start binding or clicking. There have been 8 revisions thus far. Definitely OEM part # 45220-06114.
3) Replace all the parts: springs, strut bearing, seats, and dust boots. They are all wear items. Also, if any one of them fails later down the road, you will hate yourself for not replacing it. Honestly, I wish Lexus would sell fully assembled struts.
4) If you need to find the part numbers, look here
http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...driveLine=8073
http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...driveLine=8073
http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...driveLine=8073
5) Get everything documented on the repair estimate including the part numbers used.
6) Even if they want you to pay for the parts, argue to have them sold to you at cost. You can come in with several invoices from online sites and try your luck.
1) Get an OEM new rack or a low mileage, used rack from a rear-end collision if you really want to save money. Too may rebuild racks come from units that have failed catastrophically and have just been spray painted. A good steering rack is probably the second most important part of your car after your brakes. A new Lexus rack also comes with inner and outer tie rod ends which are about $500 OEM online. OEM part # 44200-33530
2) Replace your intermediate steering shaft. It had a design flaw and tended to start binding or clicking. There have been 8 revisions thus far. Definitely OEM part # 45220-06114.
3) Replace all the parts: springs, strut bearing, seats, and dust boots. They are all wear items. Also, if any one of them fails later down the road, you will hate yourself for not replacing it. Honestly, I wish Lexus would sell fully assembled struts.
4) If you need to find the part numbers, look here
http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...driveLine=8073
http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...driveLine=8073
http://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.co...driveLine=8073
5) Get everything documented on the repair estimate including the part numbers used.
6) Even if they want you to pay for the parts, argue to have them sold to you at cost. You can come in with several invoices from online sites and try your luck.
#20
Stopped by the Toyota dealer today. Service manager hadn't returned my emails but apparently he's got some medical issues going on and is out. Got a little bit of the runaround from the service writer as he kept saying "you have a brand new suspension" not acknowledging that oem spec parts weren't used despite my request. Told me the service tech would take a test drive and check it out. The tech was nice and helpful. I explained that the parts are probably functioning correctly but are aftermarket and just won't ride the same. I explained that I had asked the service writer to use lexus parts and the tech gave me that eye roll reaction. He said he thought it was odd that the car's owner would want these aftermarket parts and not oem. Said he actually asked the service writer if this was correct and the service writer told him just to proceed. He seemed frustrated like there were ongoing issues with him.
Tech just verified that the ride was off and the problem was using the aftermarket parts. They said they would make it right, but the service writer was kind of ambiguous and hesitant. I think the only way to make this right would be for me to just pay the difference between the aftermarket parts and the parts that I had originally requested (likely from a 3rd party since dealer prices for oem will be marked up).
I also mentioned the 100% markup on the steering rack price from the local parts store and the service writer just denied it. I have a feeling that I might have to dispute the charge on my credit card which I've never done before.
On another note, Cardone steering rack replacements are pretty crumby. It really tightens up the steering and at times it almost feels like there's no PS at all. There's a place in South Carolina called Rackdoctor that sells remanufactured oem steering racks at a good price that I'm going to look into.
Tech just verified that the ride was off and the problem was using the aftermarket parts. They said they would make it right, but the service writer was kind of ambiguous and hesitant. I think the only way to make this right would be for me to just pay the difference between the aftermarket parts and the parts that I had originally requested (likely from a 3rd party since dealer prices for oem will be marked up).
I also mentioned the 100% markup on the steering rack price from the local parts store and the service writer just denied it. I have a feeling that I might have to dispute the charge on my credit card which I've never done before.
On another note, Cardone steering rack replacements are pretty crumby. It really tightens up the steering and at times it almost feels like there's no PS at all. There's a place in South Carolina called Rackdoctor that sells remanufactured oem steering racks at a good price that I'm going to look into.
the Tech said they would make it right because he cnfirmed that they did use aftermarket parts and thats why the ride is off correct ? from what i understand
and the service wrighter rolled his eyes and was a jerk for this also correct ?
It is very hard to dispute auto service with the credit card company.
What you need is to be able to prove that you told the service wrighter you wanted OEM Lexus Parts.
And then you need to be able to prove that they are not OEM parts that they are Aftermarket parts
the tech as confirmed this verbally
what is going ot be the hardest thing here is unless you have a writen work order that confirms you wanted OEM parts even with being able to prove that they have used aftermarket parts which is easy to prove the tech admited to it and also you can take it to another shop pay them 20 bucks for a inspection and ask them to confirm that they are not OEM parts that where replaced.
But then you have to Prove that you request OEM parts and the job was not completed.
are they going to fix this correctly and are they going to then charge you more saying that the price is higher than then what they gave you ?
if this is what they are going to do then you shoudl contact Toyota Motor Company DIrectly with the complain explain whats going on and give them some time to get it corrected.
sometimes that will help.
I had a issue very small problem but still a problem and i had to deal with Lexus Motor Company Devision of Toyota
The service tech at the lexus delership in Colorado Stevenson lexus closed the hood without proply fitting the battery cover back on like 2 years ago it cracked the cover and broke it i complained ot the dealer the service tech said it was already like that when he started working on it. not saying that he was lying but i did say it wasn't like that when i droped it off not sure how many people lifted and closed the hood and removed the battery cover between the time it got in to the garage doors and then left with me but it wasn't wrigh they where refusing to replace the part i called lexus up complained 10 minutes after i did that i got a call from lexus customer service and the dealership also asking when i could come in for it to be repalced i said put it in the mail please overnight or come drop it off but im not coming in making another trip they offered me a free tank of fuel so i ended up going in
before i left i said i would be going across town to Kuni lexus for all my service now.
This was just after they had made 1300 dollars by replacing the battery and alternator in my car and they where treating me like crap over a plastic cover.
not sure if toyota devision will treat this the same way as ther luxory devision would but its worth a try call and give them a chance.
also rememebr the BBB is your friend file a complain with them.
Go on Good and yelp they are not just for food lol i mean right consumer reviews compalning and explaining your issues
customer service for the dealership and for toyota will most likely get ahold of you why ? because they knwo it takes years to build a repuation but 1 person with a bad comment and review could ruing there reputation.
so they will try and fix the problem somehow
#21
Advanced
Thread Starter
Nah. Tech was a nice guy. Seemed upset with the service writer. Not totally sure about the comment about the credit card. Having to prove that I requested lexus parts is kind of like saying I have to prove that when a broken product arrives at my house from an online order that I have to prove that it arrived broken. CC company said it was a valid reason and that I had 120 days from the original transaction to dispute. But they also recommended that I try to work it out with the dealer first.
But the service writer did respond via email that they would reimburse me for new struts that I could order (apparently they can only order from specific more expensive vendors) and they would take care of it. I followed up with a request to them to verify that they would pick up the cost of another alignment, all labor, and the cost of a rental (their own fleet) since round 2 should be on them. I'm hoping that they are in agreement and follow through.
I also said don't worry about replacing the steering rack. I'm assuming that another replacement will be required eventually if the intermediate steering shaft is to blame.
Thanks for the replies gang.
But the service writer did respond via email that they would reimburse me for new struts that I could order (apparently they can only order from specific more expensive vendors) and they would take care of it. I followed up with a request to them to verify that they would pick up the cost of another alignment, all labor, and the cost of a rental (their own fleet) since round 2 should be on them. I'm hoping that they are in agreement and follow through.
I also said don't worry about replacing the steering rack. I'm assuming that another replacement will be required eventually if the intermediate steering shaft is to blame.
Thanks for the replies gang.
#22
Driver School Candidate
If they're willing to do the labor on the steering rack, you should replace it as well. Cardone's are not that great and you have a Camry rack now. A steering intermediate shaft is not that hard to replace and now is the perfect time. It should be about 1 hour labor.
#23
Advanced
Thread Starter
I'm glad to hear that the dealer is willing to make it right. If you are getting new struts, that means that you are probably going to keep the car for at least another 70,000 miles. With that in mind, here is my advice
1) Get an OEM new rack or a low mileage, used rack from a rear-end collision if you really want to save money. Too may rebuild racks come from units that have failed catastrophically and have just been spray painted. A good steering rack is probably the second most important part of your car after your brakes. A new Lexus rack also comes with inner and outer tie rod ends which are about $500 OEM online. OEM part # 44200-33530
2) Replace your intermediate steering shaft. It had a design flaw and tended to start binding or clicking. There have been 8 revisions thus far. Definitely OEM part # 45220-06114.
3) Replace all the parts: springs, strut bearing, seats, and dust boots. They are all wear items. Also, if any one of them fails later down the road, you will hate yourself for not replacing it. Honestly, I wish Lexus would sell fully assembled struts...
1) Get an OEM new rack or a low mileage, used rack from a rear-end collision if you really want to save money. Too may rebuild racks come from units that have failed catastrophically and have just been spray painted. A good steering rack is probably the second most important part of your car after your brakes. A new Lexus rack also comes with inner and outer tie rod ends which are about $500 OEM online. OEM part # 44200-33530
2) Replace your intermediate steering shaft. It had a design flaw and tended to start binding or clicking. There have been 8 revisions thus far. Definitely OEM part # 45220-06114.
3) Replace all the parts: springs, strut bearing, seats, and dust boots. They are all wear items. Also, if any one of them fails later down the road, you will hate yourself for not replacing it. Honestly, I wish Lexus would sell fully assembled struts...
I've teetered back and forth, but since they just threw the struts in (i.e. no new mounts or other parts), I might try the same with oem struts if I go that route. My question is if I can do that? Can I get away with just putting oem struts in alone without the other recommended parts from the folks here? Here is a link to the KYB struts that they put in which doesn't look like it has a dust boot on it either:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/kyb-gas-strut-339024/20740671-P
To top it all off, a tire that I had plugged previously is now leaking again in the same spot and now requires replacement. The tire guy that I work with said it was kind of borderline when he did it. So now I'm out another $400 as I have to buy a new set of tires for the front as there is already a decent amount of treadwear on both. Geeze!
#24
Advanced
Thread Starter
Oh-I should also note that the KYB struts did loosen up a bit over time. Still definitely not oem, but not bad really. On smooth roads they are fine but you do feel it on rougher ones.
#25
Driver School Candidate
KYB Struts
Shop quote for strut replacement was over $2000 so I did some research and purchased parts online. Given I had over 100K on the car I decided to replace the springs too since I was riding on bad strut I reasoned that the springs might have some metal fatigue.
I used KYB struts and boots(bellows):
Strut Assembly - Front Right - KYB 339023 $75
Strut Assembly - Front Left - KYB 339024 $75
Strut Assembly - Rear Right - KYB 335059 $85
Strut Assembly - Rear Left - KYB 335060 $85
Strut Bellows - Front - KYB SB102 $15
Strut Bellows - Rear - KYB SB101 $15
I used MOOG Springs:
Coil Spring Set - Rear - Moog 81429 $55
Coil Spring Set - Front - Moog 81540 $105
TOTAL COST (Labor)= $510 (parts only)
I chose not to use kits because I didn't feel like they would have the durability I wanted. Reused a portion of the existing rubber boots (cushioning gasket at the top of the spring mounting) just cut away the lower level. But you can purchase the mounts for $45 each. Getting the springs compressed to remove and then compressing the new spring was a bit frightening given the force behind it but most part stores rent a compression tool for nothing (deposit only).
Removing the back seat is pretty easy but removing and reinstalling the bolts for the rear was a very tight operation. I referred to several you tube videos before undertaking this repair. None I can specifically recommend so I wish I had done my own.
I ordered everything I used from Parts Geek.
I used KYB struts and boots(bellows):
Strut Assembly - Front Right - KYB 339023 $75
Strut Assembly - Front Left - KYB 339024 $75
Strut Assembly - Rear Right - KYB 335059 $85
Strut Assembly - Rear Left - KYB 335060 $85
Strut Bellows - Front - KYB SB102 $15
Strut Bellows - Rear - KYB SB101 $15
I used MOOG Springs:
Coil Spring Set - Rear - Moog 81429 $55
Coil Spring Set - Front - Moog 81540 $105
TOTAL COST (Labor)= $510 (parts only)
I chose not to use kits because I didn't feel like they would have the durability I wanted. Reused a portion of the existing rubber boots (cushioning gasket at the top of the spring mounting) just cut away the lower level. But you can purchase the mounts for $45 each. Getting the springs compressed to remove and then compressing the new spring was a bit frightening given the force behind it but most part stores rent a compression tool for nothing (deposit only).
Removing the back seat is pretty easy but removing and reinstalling the bolts for the rear was a very tight operation. I referred to several you tube videos before undertaking this repair. None I can specifically recommend so I wish I had done my own.
I ordered everything I used from Parts Geek.
Last edited by DIYDaisy; 05-29-17 at 11:45 AM.
#26
Shop quote for strut replacement was over $2000 so I did some research and purchased parts online. Given I had over 100K on the car I decided to replace the springs too since I was riding on bad strut I reasoned that the springs might have some metal fatigue.
I used KYB struts and boots(bellows):
Strut Assembly - Front Right - KYB 339023 $75
Strut Assembly - Front Left - KYB 339024 $75
Strut Assembly - Rear Right - KYB 335059 $85
Strut Assembly - Rear Left - KYB 335060 $85
Strut Bellows - Front - KYB SB102 $15
Strut Bellows - Rear - KYB SB101 $15
I used MOOG Springs:
Coil Spring Set - Rear - Moog 81429 $55
Coil Spring Set - Front - Moog 81540 $105
TOTAL COST (Labor)= $510 (parts only)
I chose not to use kits because I didn't feel like they would have the durability I wanted. Reused a portion of the existing rubber boots (cushioning gasket at the top of the spring mounting) just cut away the lower level. But you can purchase the mounts for $45 each. Getting the springs compressed to remove and then compressing the new spring was a bit frightening given the force behind it but most part stores rent a compression tool for nothing (deposit only).
Removing the back seat is pretty easy but removing and reinstalling the bolts for the rear was a very tight operation. I referred to several you tube videos before undertaking this repair. None I can specifically recommend so I wish I had done my own.
I ordered everything I used from Parts Geek.
I used KYB struts and boots(bellows):
Strut Assembly - Front Right - KYB 339023 $75
Strut Assembly - Front Left - KYB 339024 $75
Strut Assembly - Rear Right - KYB 335059 $85
Strut Assembly - Rear Left - KYB 335060 $85
Strut Bellows - Front - KYB SB102 $15
Strut Bellows - Rear - KYB SB101 $15
I used MOOG Springs:
Coil Spring Set - Rear - Moog 81429 $55
Coil Spring Set - Front - Moog 81540 $105
TOTAL COST (Labor)= $510 (parts only)
I chose not to use kits because I didn't feel like they would have the durability I wanted. Reused a portion of the existing rubber boots (cushioning gasket at the top of the spring mounting) just cut away the lower level. But you can purchase the mounts for $45 each. Getting the springs compressed to remove and then compressing the new spring was a bit frightening given the force behind it but most part stores rent a compression tool for nothing (deposit only).
Removing the back seat is pretty easy but removing and reinstalling the bolts for the rear was a very tight operation. I referred to several you tube videos before undertaking this repair. None I can specifically recommend so I wish I had done my own.
I ordered everything I used from Parts Geek.
#27
Advanced
Thread Starter
I can’t remember the brand that Toyota threw im my car (I think KYB) and it really changed the ride quality. I’d say it’s somewhere around 20-25% stiffer.
Funny seeing this post again. Over the last couple of weeks they seemed to have gone downhill a bit and it feels like I’m driving and older mustang. I’d go oem from a cheaper online source if you’re just replacing the struts alone. I regret not getting oem now but it would have been a real pita with my busy schedule.
Funny seeing this post again. Over the last couple of weeks they seemed to have gone downhill a bit and it feels like I’m driving and older mustang. I’d go oem from a cheaper online source if you’re just replacing the struts alone. I regret not getting oem now but it would have been a real pita with my busy schedule.
#28
Driver School Candidate
Ride was stiffer and of course higher but very pleased with the results. Plus, the money I saved helped buy new Bridgestones all the way around and get the car aligned. Still, had lunch money left
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