When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi! I would greatly appreciate it if someone that has knowledge of wheel alignments to take a look at the before and after alignment done on my 2014 Lexus ES350 and give me their thoughts. I just had Michelin Cross Climate 2 tires installed. Thank you very much!
So in the after picture, those out of spec areas were corrected. In the small numbers left and right in each colored box, the specs are shown. I also have a ‘14 ES 350, and have the exact same printout from my last alignment. The specs shown on mine are the same as yours. I get my work done at a Toyota dealer.
They set the front and rear toe in, those are the most critical tire wear angles. Very little camber correction can be achieved without installing a strut camber correction kit. Yours looks fine, if the steering wheel is straight you should be all set. I’ve done hundreds of wheel alignments and this looks like a typical alignment end result, caster is non adjustable btw.
While many alignment techs no longer build in a camber difference to offset a pull for road crown, it still is often seen as a benefit. In the alignment illustrated there would be a slight “push” to the left from the slightly more negative camber on the right front wheel. You probably wouldn’t want to correct that because if the customer complains the car seems to drift right more afterwards, it could be due to the camber now being even at both front wheels and the slight push to the left is now gone, which did offset road crown. The problem with building in a pull is if the driver drives a vehicle more on the highway in the left lanes, there is often less crown or sometimes a crown toward the center median in those lanes which now can make the car drift more left.
They set the front and rear toe in, those are the most critical tire wear angles. Very little camber correction can be achieved without installing a strut camber correction kit. Yours looks fine, if the steering wheel is straight you should be all set. I’ve done hundreds of wheel alignments and this looks like a typical alignment end result, caster is non adjustable btw.
Thanks for the reply EVERYONE! I haven't had a chance to drive it much, but after the new tire install and alignment it seems to be pretty good I'd say. The steering wheel does seem to be slightly cocked to the left. Adjusting it after the fact doesn't throw off the alignment does it? I do have to say that my tire pressure was reading dashes, no numbers, and I've had to reset it a few times to get a reading. I'm thinking they may have messed up a sensor?
Suspect damaged tpms sensor, sometimes the tire shops break a sensor and install a cheaper generic type sensor without your knowledge and the new sensor doesn’t communicate with the car like it should and you get the dashes as described. The only way to center the steering wheel is by turning the front or rear tie rods to correct a thrust angle or to properly center the steering wheel. That being said, I’ve seen techs loosen a right and left tie rod and move one out a 1/4 turn and one in a 1/4 turn but this isn’t the proper way to straighten the steering, probably going to have incorrect toe when done like that. So if it’s cocked ask for a new printout when they “straighten” the steering wheel, the only correct way is to realign the wheels.