AC / Heat & system lean issues
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: tx
AC / Heat & system lean issues
I bought my Lexus ES330 04 about a year ago (at like 190k miles and now hitting 196k) I recently ran into an issue where front passenger ac would blow hot air and the left side with blow cold. However, a few weeks after recently the heat / ac has flipped and now blows hot in drivers seat and cold in passenger. What would cause something like this? It didn't bother me so much due to me driving solo to work with this car, but now it being directly to me it is now bugging me.
Also, another issue is I occasionally have my Check Engine light come on and sometimes turns off when filling new gas? I thought maybe it was the gas cap but I've tried a few and it persists. The airbox I noticed doesn't fit fully flush on the top back part so I was thinking it was that and noticed that one seemed a little warped? What would be the best way to possibly enclose that as I was believing that was the primary issue.
Anyway, sorry for all the problems I am seeking to have fixed. For the price I paid for the car I guess I can't complain?
Also, another issue is I occasionally have my Check Engine light come on and sometimes turns off when filling new gas? I thought maybe it was the gas cap but I've tried a few and it persists. The airbox I noticed doesn't fit fully flush on the top back part so I was thinking it was that and noticed that one seemed a little warped? What would be the best way to possibly enclose that as I was believing that was the primary issue.
Anyway, sorry for all the problems I am seeking to have fixed. For the price I paid for the car I guess I can't complain?
Lead Lap
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 3,693
Likes: 1,102
From: Michigan
Hello,
How doe the heat and cold relate to the dialed temperature? Is it always full hot and full cold?
The A/C system issue can be caused by the flaps actuators that adjust the air being worn out or misaligned. Try going into a Self-Diagnostics mode as it is described here and see if there are any codes stored. Try dialing the the temperature to full Cold or Full Hot on both sides, in this mode the car will be forced to open or close the flap fully, if that would help, it could be a temperature sensor issue. You can also try taking a look at the servo actuators to see if they move when you change temperatures, though they may be hard to reach, here is a diagram.
As for a CEL, what's the Error Code that you are getting? While the Check Engine light is lit, visit any car parts store, they should have a scan tool that you can rent for free to retrieve the codes, otherwise it's a pure guesswork.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
How doe the heat and cold relate to the dialed temperature? Is it always full hot and full cold?
The A/C system issue can be caused by the flaps actuators that adjust the air being worn out or misaligned. Try going into a Self-Diagnostics mode as it is described here and see if there are any codes stored. Try dialing the the temperature to full Cold or Full Hot on both sides, in this mode the car will be forced to open or close the flap fully, if that would help, it could be a temperature sensor issue. You can also try taking a look at the servo actuators to see if they move when you change temperatures, though they may be hard to reach, here is a diagram.
As for a CEL, what's the Error Code that you are getting? While the Check Engine light is lit, visit any car parts store, they should have a scan tool that you can rent for free to retrieve the codes, otherwise it's a pure guesswork.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: tx
Hello,
How doe the heat and cold relate to the dialed temperature? Is it always full hot and full cold?
The A/C system issue can be caused by the flaps actuators that adjust the air being worn out or misaligned. Try going into a Self-Diagnostics mode as it is described here and see if there are any codes stored. Try dialing the the temperature to full Cold or Full Hot on both sides, in this mode the car will be forced to open or close the flap fully, if that would help, it could be a temperature sensor issue. You can also try taking a look at the servo actuators to see if they move when you change temperatures, though they may be hard to reach, here is a diagram.
As for a CEL, what's the Error Code that you are getting? While the Check Engine light is lit, visit any car parts store, they should have a scan tool that you can rent for free to retrieve the codes, otherwise it's a pure guesswork.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
How doe the heat and cold relate to the dialed temperature? Is it always full hot and full cold?
The A/C system issue can be caused by the flaps actuators that adjust the air being worn out or misaligned. Try going into a Self-Diagnostics mode as it is described here and see if there are any codes stored. Try dialing the the temperature to full Cold or Full Hot on both sides, in this mode the car will be forced to open or close the flap fully, if that would help, it could be a temperature sensor issue. You can also try taking a look at the servo actuators to see if they move when you change temperatures, though they may be hard to reach, here is a diagram.
As for a CEL, what's the Error Code that you are getting? While the Check Engine light is lit, visit any car parts store, they should have a scan tool that you can rent for free to retrieve the codes, otherwise it's a pure guesswork.
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Also, the codes are for banks 1 and 2 being lean. P0171 and P0174. I have a very minimal code reader but it at least gives codes
Lead Lap
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 3,693
Likes: 1,102
From: Michigan
Take a look around the engine bay, see if you can find any loose or torn hoses, lines, any kind of leaks, etc., a vacuum leak this big, you should be able to hear it. To diagnose those codes any further, you will need to have a scan tool that can read Engine Live Data, Advance Auto has pretty good scanners, at least in my area, but not all workers allow you to access that feature for one reason or another, so just ask around.
You need to check Long Term Fuel Trims, as well as MAF, A/F and Temperature sensor readouts. Fuel Trims should be as close to 0 as possible, above 20% will trigger the code, it helps to know how big is the issue. MAF sensor should read about 3-4 g/sec, if it is less, it may indicate a vacuum leak. To partially test the A/F sensor, when the car is warm and at idle, floor the accelerator while looking at the graph, it should spike and then go back it its usual readings, which are about 3.2-ish volts. For the temp sensor, just disconnect it and see what happens..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Thread Starter
8th Gear
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: tx
When did those appear, was there any service done to the car when they appeared?
Take a look around the engine bay, see if you can find any loose or torn hoses, lines, any kind of leaks, etc., a vacuum leak this big, you should be able to hear it. To diagnose those codes any further, you will need to have a scan tool that can read Engine Live Data, Advance Auto has pretty good scanners, at least in my area, but not all workers allow you to access that feature for one reason or another, so just ask around.
You need to check Long Term Fuel Trims, as well as MAF, A/F and Temperature sensor readouts. Fuel Trims should be as close to 0 as possible, above 20% will trigger the code, it helps to know how big is the issue. MAF sensor should read about 3-4 g/sec, if it is less, it may indicate a vacuum leak. To partially test the A/F sensor, when the car is warm and at idle, floor the accelerator while looking at the graph, it should spike and then go back it its usual readings, which are about 3.2-ish volts. For the temp sensor, just disconnect it and see what happens..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
Take a look around the engine bay, see if you can find any loose or torn hoses, lines, any kind of leaks, etc., a vacuum leak this big, you should be able to hear it. To diagnose those codes any further, you will need to have a scan tool that can read Engine Live Data, Advance Auto has pretty good scanners, at least in my area, but not all workers allow you to access that feature for one reason or another, so just ask around.
You need to check Long Term Fuel Trims, as well as MAF, A/F and Temperature sensor readouts. Fuel Trims should be as close to 0 as possible, above 20% will trigger the code, it helps to know how big is the issue. MAF sensor should read about 3-4 g/sec, if it is less, it may indicate a vacuum leak. To partially test the A/F sensor, when the car is warm and at idle, floor the accelerator while looking at the graph, it should spike and then go back it its usual readings, which are about 3.2-ish volts. For the temp sensor, just disconnect it and see what happens..
Hope this helps and best of luck!
On a pretty basic code reader are these easy to read? I have a live data section but not sure exactly whats wrong with it.
Also, I noticed sometimes it does it more when my ac vent is closed shut because the heat that comes from the other issue? It also disappears with filling up gas for a little bit too? Not being a genuine lexus cap could it be those gas cap fake errors or also due to the heat from ac? I seen a freon video of a guy in a lexus and think that may help the ac issue
Lead Lap
Joined: Nov 2019
Posts: 3,693
Likes: 1,102
From: Michigan
Hope this helps and best of luck!
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