Hello, I just got a CEL with a P0330 on my 2000 ES300. It is a knock sensor bank 2 code. Lexus is quoting me $337 each sensor. Are there any quality aftermarket knock sensors? Seems beyond ridiculous to spend that much even if it’s OEM.

 

I have the same code on a 1998.

The code is called P0330 Knock Sensor 2 Circuit.

The more likely cause is not the sensor itself but the wiring harness that connects both sensors to main engine harness. The harness is a $20 part. Each sensor is about $100.

The biggest issue is where these parts are. You need to dismantle the intake system and drain the coolant to get to the harness and knock sensors.

I recently posted about the downside of having this code. It has no impact on drivability so you can wait to get it fixed unless your inspection is coming up. The service manual says the computer will default to the most conservative ignition timing angle when this code is lit but I have not noticed any issues with engine timing while monitoring it with live data.

Check RockAuto for the knock sensor harness and knock sensors. I recommend WVA for the harness and NTK for the sensors.

If you can do the work yourself, only do the harness. If you’re paying somebody else, get the harness and sensors. You would also need new gaskets for the intake plenums, throttle body, and you need a new bypass coolant hose (from the dealer). This is a good time to also do the spark plugs and valve cover gaskets.

This is the official service manual for fixing this code.






Here is some photos of how far you need to get to fix this code.

 

Thanks for tips! I noticed yesterday the car was pinging quite a bit and thought I bought bad gas or something. Then this morning, I get the knock sensor code. I will call around some shops for estimates, but I know they’re going to be expensive. I have 238,000 miles on the car and never had a code for this. There is an Oreily near me that sells a Dorman kit with the sensors and the harness ($50), but not sure of the quality of the product.

 

It kind of turns into a can of worms doesn't it?

Bypass Hose Part# 16261-20010
Knock Sensor Harness Part# 82219-07010
Knock Sensor Part# 89615-12090 $192 each @ Toyotapartsdeal. I got this part number for a 2001 Toyota Avalon (Same 1MZFE VVTI motor)

Note: As mentioned.. inspect the harness first. Kind of a similar deal, but I've done this on a Acura before that also required the intake manifold to be removed. I opted to replace the knock sensor anyway since they weren't too expensive from Honda, but the knock sensor harness its self was the actual culprit. Literally the harness wires broke apart in different location as I went to remove it. The wires were that brittle.

As Hayk said, while you are in there it is a good idea to replace the valve cover gaskets, especially the rear ones as this would require removing the intake manifold again down the line.

I would get BECK/ARNLEY Part# 0376182 will have all you need for the intake manifold and plenum
BECK/ARNLEY Part# 0361613 For both valve cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. Or go all OEM here, your choice.

Put two 5/16" washers under each valve cover bolt or replace all the factory washers with part# 90902-02001, or try this part# I've never confirmed but I believe it is a new bolt with washer already on it 90080-10288 call your local dealer perhaps to see.

Below the Coolant bypass hose there is a metal aluminum plate that is bolted down between both cylinder heads. I come from LS1/LSX engine world and we call that the "valley cover" except that cover contains oil, why on this 1MZ it contains the coolant flowing underneath. I recommend removing it and resealing it with toyota FIPG, it does not take a gasket. Or use something like Permatex ultra black.

Edit: Stolen photo from toyotanation. This cover here

 

Nice, didn't know about kits from Beck/Arnley, although I've had mixed results with them in the past. Do you know if the kit is up to OE standards? I did a rough estimate of all the parts I would need from Lexus and RockAuto and got to about $350 (valve covers, knock harness only, spark plugs, coolant, gaskets, and hoses).
Since it runs okay, I think I'm gonna live with it till it gets warm again and do everything at once.

Regarding the coolant valley, I never considered to reseal that plate, I figured Toyota has a pretty good track record of using good sealant for stuff like that.

 

I've only used Beck/Arnely gaskets once so far, and I haven't put on enough miles to say anything positive/negative about them. I have seen a few people use and recommend them from here and toyotanation forums that I frequent, so I didn't hesitate to try. I'm currently using their valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals and they seem to be of pretty good quality and good fitment. Anything else though I wouldn't use aftermarket such as motor mounts, cam and crank seals, etc. I always use OEM for items like that.

Far as the plate goes, Toyota/Lexus also uses the same sealant on the oil pan too, 20+ year old car with thousands of miles and thousands of heat cycles, the sealant is bound to fail eventually. When I had my motor out for my transmission swap I touched on everything while it was on the engine stand. When you have to dig that deep into the car, it doesn't take much more effort + $5 to $10 for a tube of sealant, cheap insurance so you don't have to tear it apart again for a potential coolant leak down there.

 

I’ve done this on a ‘99 ES300, and it’s not a fun job, but doable. I would never recommend non OEM parts, only Toyota or Denso, if available. You do not want to go back and redo the job if the cheap part fails.

Also a good time to redo the coolant hose on the manifold valley, and consider doing the valve cover gaskets, while you are there…

Good luck

 

Thanks, that’s probably a wise decision to go OEM considering the amount of work that’s involved. It’s the 1st time I’ve had this code and I don’t want it to come back.

 

Original parts from the dealer is the only way to fix this for certain. Don't buy from Amazon, if you buy on Ebay make sure it is from an actual Toyota or Lexus dealer not one that simply claims genuine parts.

 

"It has no impact on drivability"
It absolutely does have an impact. I have the P0330 code and sometimes (depending on how quickly I accelerate and if I go over 4000 RPMs) my ECU will block overdrive. If the engine has issues sensing the engine knocking, it may prevent your engine from entering overdrive. I'll be stuck at 3,500 RPMS at 70 mph.

 

That is an area where I found the residual of a mouse nest. So, I second the notion of starting with the wiring harness inspection unless you have to get the car on the road in a hurry.