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If you run it in 10w30 and run it reasonable intervals, it will be OK. But, as he said, it is not the best choice in this engine. I ran that for 5k miles as a “flush” oil a year or two ago. There is good evidence sticking with one oil is best, but also good evidence running one interval of a different oil after several of the same is also good.
Personally I use Mobil 1 10w-30 High Mileage for 7.5k intervals. Robust 30 weight that resists shearing that leads to sludge (a 10w30 will always have a big edge for that vs. a 5w30), a quality additive package. Cheap after rebate from Walmart. 300k miles and the car runs like new and uses no oil. I like it. The Mobil 1 can be had cheaper than the GTX, so there is no reason to let price be a factor.
I can't confirm the other non listed retailers but Walmart is approved. I called when I noticed in previous promotions they were conspicuously missing. Not sure why they continue to omit their name.
I can't confirm the other non listed retailers but Walmart is approved. I called when I noticed in previous promotions they were conspicuously missing. Not sure why they continue to omit their name.
Thanks for linking that, it was the rebate I meant. Walmart purchases are honored, though not listed. They run the rebate every april/may and Sept/Oct. I buy two 5qt jugs at each one and that takes care of our cars for the year. Great deal. I have seen numerous oil analyses of this oil in these exact engines and the oil is good and no wear showing out at 7,500miles and further. I use it to 7,500 - you could go longer most likely, but that's a nice safe point to cut it off in these engines. This is for the 10w-30, which is I think a better weight for these engines for multiple reasons, except in regular extreme cold.
On a related note, Fram Xg3614 filters are amazing filters and Fram recommends them out to 20k or 25k miles of use. I have read much about them at BITOG and even cut one open myself to inspect after I ran it ~16k miles. I run two oil change intervals (15k) before replacing it. The small amount of used oil still in the filter is not a bad thing (and some say leaving it is actually a good thing - some real science there) so I don't bother removing it at the change.
I use K&N oil filters and normal they take an HP-1002 but you can run an oversized HP-2009.
With the Fram, the oversized one is the XG3600. The Fram Ultra are in the general category of quality as the K&N, but with some finer filtration specs and a few dollars cheaper. Good filters, both.
What particularly impressed me with the Fram in my long-service experiment was that the ADBV never failed and the filter never leaked-down overnight and gave dry starts in the morning - or at least that I ever detected. I would get that after a short while with the Motorcraft filters I was using before that (and they are pretty well regarded filters, made by Purolator). The K&N should also perform well at that from what I hear - I have no personal experience with them. This engine is hard on filters because of the stupid location under the exhaust header and horizontal mounting.
With the Fram, the oversized one is the XG3600. The Fram Ultra are in the general category of quality as the K&N, but with some finer filtration specs and a few dollars cheaper. Good filters, both.
What particularly impressed me with the Fram in my long-service experiment was that the ADBV never failed and the filter never leaked-down overnight and gave dry starts in the morning - or at least that I ever detected. I would get that after a short while with the Motorcraft filters I was using before that (and they are pretty well regarded filters, made by Purolator). The K&N should also perform well at that from what I hear - I have no personal experience with them. This engine is hard on filters because of the stupid location under the exhaust header and horizontal mounting.
I got the K&N in part because it was readily available and had a nut on the top for easy removal. I ended up not needing it, because I remove the filter by hand from the top of the car reaching down in there. I used to not have a high opinion of FRAM, but they have improved over the years with their technology enough that I now recommend them.
The oversized filter fits in there without issue, so glad I figured this one out.
For me, depends on your environment and the age of your vehicle. If you live in a hotter environment and have a vehicle above 100K, I would consider the 10W30.
I'm in Texas so it's hot as hell and I have 135k miles.
The only exception I have with that rule is if I find an oil with a superior additive package or performance. I rave about Castrol 0W30, which was known for years as German Castrol because it was made there but now is made in Belgium and had great oil analyses and a superior additive package. However, I would use a 10W30 as I live in Florida and have 175K on the clock.
The only exception I have with that rule is if I find an oil with a superior additive package or performance.
You can't argue with that; a good point.
I like the M1 10w-30 HM because the base oils is very robust, and there are very little, if any, viscosity index imp rovers in it compared to a 5w or 0w base oil. The HTHS value is 3.5 (as high a film strength as you can have in a 30 before it's into 40 range). But in truth he add-pack is "OK" in that oil and not truly exceptional. I actually supplement mine with one ounce/qt of oil with Lubegard Biotech. I can tell a difference.