ok thanks ill wait and hope that someone that might know more would understand and have time to say what they think
thank you

That's the flare.
Take it to dealer and tell them to reflash the tranny ECU.

is there a service bulletin is there a recal or something on this
or is it going to cost me cash out of pockett to do this and if the dealer i go to charges 115 an hour am i looking at an hour labor probably or more ?

so the car has been taken to a transmission shop. They said it needs an all new tranny. This seems kinda odd for a Lexus with only 115k miles but they came highly recommended. Unfortunately the cost is going to be high at 3500 bucks but it should fix it. I'll keep y'all updated

i wonder what your lexus dealer would diagnose/quote for repair?

New tranny? Tell them I said LOL.

Well guys I have just heard from the transmission shop and the transmission can not be rebuilt because the planetary gear was the issue and it wrecked the whole thing ;(. Has this ever happened to anyone else with this model? Im just so disappointed that a new transmission is needed after only 115k.

Maybe a used one would be a better alternative for less money, just change the fluid when you install it. They use this same transmission in a bunch of Toyota & Lexus models.

A question, had you ever changed the transmission fluid? If not, then your failure may be a sign that a transmission flush at 50,000 is good preventive maintenance. I do a drain and fill every oil change after initially doing 2 quickly at 35,000 miles. You can only drain and fill about 2 quarts at a time. A full flush at a dealer costs between $200 and $300.

My dealer wouldn't change my ATF. Flat out wouldn't do it. When I bought the ATF from a Toyota dealer he said it didn't need to be changed ever, same as the manual. I did it anyway, at around 105,000 miles - a full replacement. I'm sorry to say that it made my transmission flare noticeably worse, but still manageable. I don't think I'll change it again.

Here's a weird note on atf flushes. I had my 09 flushed at a Toyota dealer at around 85k (Toyota will do it if your Lexus dealer won't) and the shifting wasn't as smooth. Around 40k later, I had it done at a different dealer and it was noticeably smoother. I'm wondering if the tech that did the first flush didn't let the atf temp get to the right temp before changing since I dropped it off after a lot of driving. With a different car previously, a master tech had advised that I drop it off the night before so the transmission temp wouldn't be so high. The process for this sealed transmission is such a PITA. I wish it were just a drain and fill so that I could do it myself.

It is possible the first dealer did not use Toyota WS but a cheaper substitute ATF or the prior stuff, Toyota T-IV ATF (which is more like Dexron and is thicker than WS), or they got the level wrong.

That is why I just do cold drain and fills of 2 quarts. I measure what comes out and pour back in the same amount plus a couple ounces for spillage. I did this many times on my 2009 MINI Cooper that had essentially the same Aisin 6 speed automatic (but took Toyota T-IV for which I swapped out Mobil 1 ATF) and it always ran great and still does 4 years later for the guy who bought it from me. I have done the drain and fill on my RX350 (same transmission as ES350) about 4 times and it shifts better than ever at 47,000 miles.
A friend with a 2014 RAV4 and the same transmission just had hers flushed by an independent Toyota specialist shop in Silver Spring, Maryland for $300. They are big on doing these every 30,000 miles as preventive maintenance, considering the high price of a new transmission. I think it is not needed that often, and doing it at least once gets most of the initial wear materials out of the unit. New clean fluid will reduce further wear and provide more protection.

I bought a 2008 ES350 with 170k miles. My car was having the exact same issue as you discribed. I thought it was very strange that disconnecting the battery and connecting it would "fix" the transmission but this would only work for ~ 1 min. With this being said, I had to replace the transmission. Before I did this, I checked the transmission oil pan and there was a lot of metal flakes in the oil and even small bits of metal. There was deffinetly a mechanical failure within the trans somewhere.

I bought a used trans from a local scrap yard and replace the trans. (Shout out to Speedkar99 on youtube for the walk through. link: ) Once the trans was replaced, the car worked perfect again. The only thing that I am still trying to figure out is why the VSC light still comes on. I suspect that the codes just need to be cleared.

It would be good to know what code is causing the light to appear. They may have screwed up something on the installation. I would go back to those guys and have them check it out.
I hope you changed the fluid on the replacement transmission.