Well, my 2011 swap of the used Transmission and new POS Autozone Torque Converter "Dorman" sprung a leak due to yet again Pump Bushing seizing on the TC shaft and ripped the front seal to shreds.


Lucky my Step-son, finally learned and actually pulled over right away when he saw the ploom of smoke out the back on the Freeway :-), towed it home.



So I was searching for a new used Transmission and found the fella on YouTube that rebuilt the Pump on his transmission re-build. I was so impressed I decided to do it as well.


He recommended TranStar ( great prices ) in Orange: 714-464-6591 Matt: http://www.transtar1.com/contact/loc...ifornia-Branch

Pump Body Assembly with new Gears and new Stator with all 3 New Bushing $97
New Oring
New Front Seal
New Longer Torque Converter $115.82 ( YES, apparently they come in two sizes )

I never liked the fit of the POS Autozone TC, I always felt it was too sloppy short, now I know why.

Stay tuned, Will post tutorial here

 

Printed out the Manual for removal of the Trans



Key is to remove Exhaust, The Exhaust Manifold Plate, Drop the Engine Compartment Undercarriage, Use a Engine Support and chains or straps ( double it )

Outcome of the Autopsy:



Because the bushing seized it blew out the front seal :-(



Pump Half, it appears to be grooved but to the touch it is smooth. Placed feelers, 0.0025, so still within acceptable limits.

Now for the Stator, another story, the wobbling TC damaged the splines on the Stator Shaft. If I was desperate I would re-use it but since I found a Complete PUMP BODY. I will call this Damaged. The inner bushing does not look too good either :-( Gears actually look and feel good.



The missing Bushing portion, apparently there is a lip so the new bushing will not go past or it could have been the wobbly TC that gouged it out. Well, I am not going to chance.



Close up of the Stator side, again smooth to the touch, no apparent high or low spots.



Scoring could be from the damn MaxLife not lubricating properly, FUDGE :-(

 

So what is the concesus on Valvoline MAX LIFE synth transmission fluid or should I just stick to Toyota recommended fluid?

 

Good product and very good value. It falls under the Toyota recommended fluid as it meets or exceeds Dex-III specs.

 

Well then, it must have been my fault.

The car was slipping a bit so I decided to give MaxLife a go. It definitely improved it, but it may have caused the bushing to over heat and cease on the shaft. Who knows. Since 2011 is not a bad run.

Ordered new PUMP BODY with Bushing already pressed in and a New Torque Converter. Will Call tomorrow morning.

Dismantling the car now :-o

 

This is usually the result of the pump body not being correctly aligned to the converter housing prior to final assembly. I do not know the internals of your Aisin well, but I would check for proceedures on aligning the pump very carefully. Usually there is a specialized alignment tool, or a hack is to use the cut-off neck of an old TC. Alternatively, there are ways to use the new one as a guide in most cases prior to final case assembly.

 

Found Castrol ATF for Imports "...Toyota...", same one used in 2011, initial swap, at Walmart $5.47 per quart order 8 for Will Call.

Glad I decided on a Compete Pump Body assembly. As you can see the Pump side wear the bushing walked out looks pretty gouged, doubt it will hold a new bushing.

Will double check to insure new TC has a CORRECT distance of 13.7+MM per manual.

Anyone crazy enough to try this repair, here are the Torque Specs for the A541E:

 

Picked Up Parts:

Scored some Real DEX III from TransStar $3.00 a quart ( on sale ) and some real assembly lube for trans.



So we discovered the TC's nub to the flywheel sheered off some how. Probably when I used the darn fly wheel to remove the CRANK pulley :-(

The new Stator bushings are pristine.

Picked up Toyota Filter, BTW it is metal and washable. another DOH, thru my original out WTD??? and cork/rubber pan seal OEM.



Ready to install, Pump Swap was easy peasy

 

Ah PooPoo!

Found the culprit. IT WAS ME :-(

Last year, I swapped the Crank and Cam seals to address a leak. Well that Freakin Crank Bolt was so super tight. I had to go to a shop and use an industrial size Diesel Truck air tool to break it open.

Before that I was using the "remove the starter and jam the FLY WHEEL technique" WRONG. Do not do this or this will happen.



Here is rest of the TC


So off to Pick a Part to get a new Old Fly Wheel. :-/ In the mean time, I swapped the thermostat, I did not like how hard the radiator hose was when I warmed her up.

 

I'm so glad I stopped trying to take off the crank bolt on my mom's 99 Camry 1MZ with a breaker bar after it wouldn't come off when doing the timing belt.

Felt the bolt starting to get round and decided to give up and try something else.

Ended up buying a Milwaukee 2763-20 Monster Impact Wrench.

That thing is a beast, bolt came off without a sweat, I will use it again when I do the T-Belt on my ES300 later this year.

Great info on this thread!

 

Update:

Job Complete!

Purrs like a kitten and shifts like a brand new car ( the throttle linkage was out of spec, let the stop out 1MM before the rubber grommet and it did the trick ) Engine vibration is gone too

No Leaks, Starts like new too, no wonder it would not start at times with the flywheel shredded like that, Geez.

I love this car, it goes thru so much abuse and still runs like a champ!

 

Update, Starts Perfectly, Shifts like Butter Smooth, cold or hot.

But now I have the dread Knock Sensor Bank 2 CEL, ah poopoo. Joy Joy Joy

Also had misfire in Cyl 1 but it was a loose plug connector, MUST hear or feel a CLICK :-)

 

So I have a related question - how did you get the tranny out, power train as a unit or just the transmission?

I have heard it done both ways. I am not in need of doing that, but if I had to some day - ours is getting miles on it, though is maintained and still running great. I rebuilt the transmission in my SUV this summer, but that's of course longitudinal and a different beast.

 

Yes, there are two ways, If you have access to a lift then as a unit so you can pull the engine out the top.

I did the DIYer home way, You just remove the engine/trans under carriage after supporting the engine and steering assembly as described in the factory manual with a steel support bar with chains or straps.

Disconnect all connectors, starter and hoses, unbolt the trans from the engine and then with a jack or motorcycle jack that I have for my Porsche, carefully separate and lower out from under the car. If you don't have a motorcycle jack, make sure you use a piece of 1X12 board to help support the trans, sucker is not that heavy but it is awkward.

I've done this so many times, it is pretty easy for me and I do it myself, my step son just causes more trouble for me :-)

 

Update, She is running Strong and Quiet.

Step-son reports she is quicker and more powerful, oh joy :-(

I did take out the slack in the accelerator cable and correctly adjusted the throttle cable for the trans, it does shift into gear very smoothly, no more "clunk" into gears. Car seems to be much happier.