I have a 2007 Lexus ES350 with 72k miles. I got a check engine light and a VSC light as well as the red triangle warning light. The check engine light was steady – not flashing. Fortunately, I had purchased an Innova scan a couple of months ago when I had a check engine light on another car. Buying the scan tool cost less than paying the Lexus dealer to read the codes once. The model that I bought will also read ABS and SRS codes. I know that many auto parts stores will read your DTC’s for free, but I wanted the convenience of erasing the codes at home without disconnecting the battery. The scan tool showed that I had a P0355 (Cylinder #5 Ignition Coil 5 Primary/Secondary Circuit) and an ABS code C1249 (Open in Stop Light Switch Circuit). I have no idea why I got a C1249. From reading various forums, the ABS system will sometimes throw various codes whenever the engine has an electrical related code. The brake lights were working fine. I erased the codes.

The next day I test drove the car. Within the first mile, all of same lights were back on. This time, I got codes P0355 and P0300 (Random Cylinder Misfire Condition). I noticed that I had an engine miss in the 1500 to 2000 RPM range. I erased these codes. On next drive, lights back on. This time I got codes: P0355, P0300, P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected), P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306 and C1201 (ABS Inlet Valve Coil LF Circuit Short to Ground). I have no idea why I got a C1201. I still had the engine miss in the 1500 to 2000 RPM range. Each time I had lights, P0355 was the first code displayed.

I then swapped the cylinder #5 coil (back right) with the #6 coil (front right). This took me about 2 to 3 hours (I’m really slow). I then took another test drive and within one mile, all the same lights came on again. But now I was getting a P0356 along with P0300 and C1201, which told me that the coil that was in cylinder # 5 but was moved to cylinder #6, was likely bad. So now I needed to decide what parts to replace. I thought that if one coil went bad, others may fail in the near future. And working on bank #1 – the back bank - was not fun and I only wanted to do that one time. So I decided to replace all three back coils with Toyota OEM coils purchased at a local Toyota dealer. I knew that I could buy them on-line for less, but the dealer had them in stock and gave me a 10 percent discount. I could be wrong, but from what I have read on this forum, I don’t think that coils have to be replaced all 6 at one time. I did replace all 6 of the spark plugs with Denso iridium plugs.

It took me about 5 or 6 working hours to do all the work. I already mentioned I’m slow. I did not have to remove the black air intake plenum – that sits on top of the engine - to get to the back coils and plugs. It wasn’t easy but I was able to lie on the engine and work on the back cylinders. I placed some old towels and a blanket over the engine to protect the wiring and vacuum lines. I used three lights – four would have been better. I removed the air box and air intake system and throttle body to get better access to the #5 cylinder. While I was at it, I cleaned both the mass airflow sensor and the throttle body.

I had to disconnect some electrical connectors, wiring harness fastener clips and a small metal brace that is in the way when working on cylinder #1. The most difficult cylinder for me was #5 because it has a very large electrical cable right on top of the coil. The tools I used included: a socket set, wobble socket extensions and universal socket connectors. It is also helpful to have a 6 inch magnetic swivel spark plug socket. Also must have tools include: pencil and paper for making notes, camera, mirror and a magnetic pickup tool.

The car is running great – no more lights. Thanks to all for making this forum so informative. I try to always check the forum before working on a car.

I broke a couple of the locking tabs on the front coil connectors. I purchased two replacements (90980-11885) at the local Toyota dealer – just the connector – not a pigtail. Now I can’t figure out how to replace them. I’ve tried searching in the forums and YouTube, but no luck. I found one small write-up, but I couldn’t get the wires to release as it was explained. If someone could provide directions or a link, I sure would appreciate it.

 

05.pdf

07.pdf

01a.pdf



according to the part # its a type 2.3 ii <FEMALE> 4P Waterproof Type
Part No. 11885 O 2.3 II Female 4 Sealed

these pdf give some detailed info which may be useful when u match the type 2.3 ii female sealed with the appropriate diagram. The are several other pdfs which refer to wire replacement but i dont think u need those

i reread ur post and maybe u need to replace wires so i added a few pdfs

 

Thanks very much for the pdf's. That helps me to see the inner workings of the connectors. Thank you!

 

After viewing a couple of YouTube videos - they were hard to find - I finally got up the courage to attempt at replacing my two broken connectors. I used a small jeweler's screwdriver to release the pins. Even though I was being careful, I damaged both of the old connector housings trying to get the metal inserts out of the connectors. But they did come out. The two new connectors were easy to install.

 

What Brand of Coil and part number was it that you replaced.

 

I did this on a 99 Solara. Those had a common part with a GM car. Maybe some research you will find the same thing and be able to cross ref. I couldnt find a Toyota part, but found a GM part that worked.

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