Audio installation Need Help 1996 ES300 (basic question)
I will try to explain myself as easy as possible.
I own a stock 1996 Lexus Es300. All original, I want to very simply install a speaker box/sub in the back. Im planning to buy the box itself the needed amp and if needed an extra battery.
My question is what else would I need. does the stock reciever have the RCA plug for the Amp? If not how can I go about fixing that issue. Do I need an extra battery. What do you guys recommend I'm in the automotive family but I don't want there help as I want to learn how to do this myself. I thank anyone for there help.
I really understand what I need to do but just before I get stuck with the RCA plug I want to know if I'm good to go. Thank you
I own a stock 1996 Lexus Es300. All original, I want to very simply install a speaker box/sub in the back. Im planning to buy the box itself the needed amp and if needed an extra battery.
My question is what else would I need. does the stock reciever have the RCA plug for the Amp? If not how can I go about fixing that issue. Do I need an extra battery. What do you guys recommend I'm in the automotive family but I don't want there help as I want to learn how to do this myself. I thank anyone for there help.
I really understand what I need to do but just before I get stuck with the RCA plug I want to know if I'm good to go. Thank you
First up, you wont need a second battery, unless you're wanting to run some sort of super high power sub that will blow your ears off.
From the headunit to the amp, then from the amp to the speakers, its all wiring. No RCA's.
You can splice the cable running to the rear speakers and fashion it into an RCA lead to connect to your amp, is what most people do.
Apart from the factory amp, installing in this car is much the same as any other. Theres plenty of guides on the internet for splicing the cable and setting it all up
You will also need the remote cable, which can be spliced from the factory amp. Just to tell your after-market one when to turn on and off.
As for running the power cable, i found the best way once you get it through the firewall, is to run it under the carpet along the sides of the car, then take out the back seats, and run it underneath the bottom half, then through one of the cracks behind the top half. You'll see the best way to go when you attempt it anyway.
Just remember to keep it out of the way of any pressure/rub points, as it could cause it to short out.
And keep it fused near the battery!
Good luck.
From the headunit to the amp, then from the amp to the speakers, its all wiring. No RCA's.
You can splice the cable running to the rear speakers and fashion it into an RCA lead to connect to your amp, is what most people do.
Apart from the factory amp, installing in this car is much the same as any other. Theres plenty of guides on the internet for splicing the cable and setting it all up

You will also need the remote cable, which can be spliced from the factory amp. Just to tell your after-market one when to turn on and off.
As for running the power cable, i found the best way once you get it through the firewall, is to run it under the carpet along the sides of the car, then take out the back seats, and run it underneath the bottom half, then through one of the cracks behind the top half. You'll see the best way to go when you attempt it anyway.
Just remember to keep it out of the way of any pressure/rub points, as it could cause it to short out. And keep it fused near the battery!
Good luck.
First up, you wont need a second battery, unless you're wanting to run some sort of super high power sub that will blow your ears off.
From the headunit to the amp, then from the amp to the speakers, its all wiring. No RCA's.
You can splice the cable running to the rear speakers and fashion it into an RCA lead to connect to your amp, is what most people do.
Apart from the factory amp, installing in this car is much the same as any other. Theres plenty of guides on the internet for splicing the cable and setting it all up
You will also need the remote cable, which can be spliced from the factory amp. Just to tell your after-market one when to turn on and off.
As for running the power cable, i found the best way once you get it through the firewall, is to run it under the carpet along the sides of the car, then take out the back seats, and run it underneath the bottom half, then through one of the cracks behind the top half. You'll see the best way to go when you attempt it anyway.
Just remember to keep it out of the way of any pressure/rub points, as it could cause it to short out.
And keep it fused near the battery!
Good luck.
From the headunit to the amp, then from the amp to the speakers, its all wiring. No RCA's.
You can splice the cable running to the rear speakers and fashion it into an RCA lead to connect to your amp, is what most people do.
Apart from the factory amp, installing in this car is much the same as any other. Theres plenty of guides on the internet for splicing the cable and setting it all up

You will also need the remote cable, which can be spliced from the factory amp. Just to tell your after-market one when to turn on and off.
As for running the power cable, i found the best way once you get it through the firewall, is to run it under the carpet along the sides of the car, then take out the back seats, and run it underneath the bottom half, then through one of the cracks behind the top half. You'll see the best way to go when you attempt it anyway.
Just remember to keep it out of the way of any pressure/rub points, as it could cause it to short out. And keep it fused near the battery!
Good luck.

IM SO SORRY FOR REVIVING MY OLD THREAD BUT I NEVER GOT TO MY PROJECT I WAS AWAY.

thank you so much you were extremely helpful but i need to recap since i never actually got to it.
i plan on splicing the remote wire to a on/off 2 pin toggle switch just so i can turn it off on command. But why do i have to splice it from the amp remote turn on and not the head unit? can i even splice from the head unit?
As for the ground and power im pretty clear on
the signal wire for the out line converter can i take it from the rear speaker to avoid the work or is there a difference where a i get the signal from. Anything else im missing?

thank you so much you were extremely helpful but i need to recap since i never actually got to it.i plan on splicing the remote wire to a on/off 2 pin toggle switch just so i can turn it off on command. But why do i have to splice it from the amp remote turn on and not the head unit? can i even splice from the head unit?
As for the ground and power im pretty clear on
the signal wire for the out line converter can i take it from the rear speaker to avoid the work or is there a difference where a i get the signal from. Anything else im missing?
IM SO SORRY FOR REVIVING MY OLD THREAD BUT I NEVER GOT TO MY PROJECT I WAS AWAY.

thank you so much you were extremely helpful but i need to recap since i never actually got to it.
i plan on splicing the remote wire to a on/off 2 pin toggle switch just so i can turn it off on command. But why do i have to splice it from the amp remote turn on and not the head unit? can i even splice from the head unit?
As for the ground and power im pretty clear on
the signal wire for the out line converter can i take it from the rear speaker to avoid the work or is there a difference where a i get the signal from. Anything else im missing?

thank you so much you were extremely helpful but i need to recap since i never actually got to it.i plan on splicing the remote wire to a on/off 2 pin toggle switch just so i can turn it off on command. But why do i have to splice it from the amp remote turn on and not the head unit? can i even splice from the head unit?
As for the ground and power im pretty clear on
the signal wire for the out line converter can i take it from the rear speaker to avoid the work or is there a difference where a i get the signal from. Anything else im missing?

but if you're having a switch use wherever is easier. Same with the signal.
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