A few days ago, my brakes started grinding when I'm coming to a complete stop and i have to push down harder on the pedal. The brake fluid is still full and the previous owner took care of the brakes about a year and a half ago.

Do I need to get all the necessary parts and new brake fluid and just take everything to my local shop? Or should I go to a shop first and have them look at it to see exactly what needs to be done? Thanks.

 

You should jack up the car and remove the wheels to check your pads. They can be seen with a good light and the wheel on, but it's hard without a hoist. You could also take it in for a 'free' inspection at a brake specialty shop, like Midas - but make sure you have a good reason why you can't have the work done 'now', just ask for a future appointment. Then, go on-line and buy the best deal parts you need and learn to do it Y'self. It sounds like your pad(s) are shot, but you need to do an inspection. The PO may have thrown on the cheapest junk available to make a sale.

 

this is my next DIY, UPS should be here tomorrow with my set of Rotors and Ceramic Brake pads front and rear, the car has 161K and for the looks of it it has never had the rotors changed, so instead of wasting money on pads that will wear out uneven because of old rotors, im changing everything....its very easy man you can do it your self and save your self 15% on your car insurance sorry i couldn't resist.

 

I've heard ceramic pads eat rotors as they are HARD

 

definately take off a wheel and flash a light in your caliper. sounds like your pads are done. id put pads in and get your rotors cut.

 

Dont know if true or not but i can honestly tell you that i dont deal with that much brake dust anymore, i change the rotors in my XB and also put ceramic pads as well and the rotors still look as when i did them 5 months ago slick and shinny, i bout the drill slotted type rotors, maybe it helps with the heating of the pads against the rotor like they say.

 

Thanks everyone. My boy said he can help and show me how to do everything but it wont be for another week or 2. is it ok to keep driving like this? i'm going to be driving like a grandma until then.


it seems like everyone agrees i need new pads. will i have to check underneath to see if the rotors need to be replaced or not? is it a good idea to replace the brake fluid while i'm doing all of this?

 

This is going to be a project I will need to tackle also. (Especially since TirePlus wants to charge me $460 for rear wheel rotors, pads and Brake System Flush... ]

 

is it ok to keep driving like this? i'm going to be driving like a grandma until then.
The damage is done, doesn't matter if you drive fast or slow you still will need to change the pads, but if the rotors are still in good shape you are taking a change in damaging the rotors and then you will have to pay double to get your rotors cut.

it seems like everyone agrees i need new pads. will i have to check underneath to see if the rotors need to be replaced or not?
When you remove the tire, pass your finger on the rotor up and down and if you feel grooves then you will need to cut the rotors, or you can put your new pads with the same rotors but your pads will not wearout evenly.

is it a good idea to replace the brake fluid while i'm doing all of this?
Unless one of your lines is blocked, that is the answer i got from my captain who owns a body-shop

 

Brake fluid is supposed to be changed every 2 years. Very few people do it, it's a pain, even with the proper equipment. The fluid absorbs moisture, and turns dark as it does, so if your fluid is still very clear than it might not be necessary.

 

Thanks. Are there any recommendations for pads? I don't have a whole bunch of $$ to spend but I don't want trash going into my car. I'm guessing I'm going to have replace all 4 right?

 

Hi, can you tell me what pad, hardware tool pack and rotors you used?
Is there any special care for the calipers and assembly?

Thanks,
Michael

 

http://irontoad.com/Merchant2/mercha...Store_Code=LSC
rotor above, pads here too

 

I order a set of rear and front rotors and pads from eBay, see.


As the caliper goes, when you remove it place it aside but be careful not to twist it too much because of the brake line attached to it.


Then make sure you push back the piston in the caliper with a clamp using your old brake pad.




Then put everything back together and you done.

 

It is not wise to drive a car after the pad surface has bottomed -- you no longer have full braking power. The rotor is damaged already.

Most rotors are not designed to be cut -- this was common with many makes years ago when all rotors were solid.


Irontoad is a great place for factory parts -- it is a dealer in PA. The OE pads are very good and are cheaper from them then most aftermarket pads from other places - $45.00 set. Price out the rotors from them -- just to see. On my older 2000es with 200k on it I bought Brembo rotors from Autohaus -- I did front and rear and Autohaus has free shipping above $50.00 so I got all 4 for around $200.00. Good place for filters too. Don't waste you money on the really cheap rotors from China.