https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...hreadid=129706

 

only 4 years, and i am one of the slackers

 

thanks man! any info would help! and thanks for the info eyemfaster. Ill deff go to the place tomorrow sometime.

 

brakes on toyotas are very easy. do yourself a favor, either get your rotors resurfqaced or buy new.
it generally takes some places about an hour to turn down a rotor.

also it matters how fast it is being turned down. if they do it too fast, it puts too much heat into the metal and can make it warp quicker. and also if your rotor is too thin it will warp quicker or they may not even cut it for you.

cost- about $10 per rotor.
cost for a new rotor 35-55 each depending on what brand.

pads, the rears are usually more if i remember correctly.
expect $25-50 per set (you will need two sets, one rear, one front)

i would stay away from organic and full metallic.
organic are just crappy, and full metallic will eat up rotors.


typically most people would go with a semi metallic pad.

i use carbon metallic, there is vertually no brake dust and seem to wear pretty well for me.

ceramics are fine, but i think they work better at higher temps, like on a porsche. they should perform well at high temps.

 

when you remove the tire, make sure you use a jackstand while the car is jacked up.

ok, you are sitting there looking at the round shiny thing(rotor) i don't mean to make it sound retarted but, i start from the ground floor and work up. so simple first.

you will use the smaller socket with the ratchet most likely 14mm or 13. make sure the car has cooled off.

put your hand on the caliper, you will feel two bolts facing the center of the car, or you can stick your head in the wheelwell.

use the socket and ratchet and loosen the two bolts. they will not just fall out, they are part of the "floating caliper" system. so once you can grab the bolt and pull it back just the slightest, don't remove it, just take it out about an inch.

you will have to wiggle off the caliper.

make sure you do not let the caliper hang down w/o support. maybe tie it up with wire, or i just find a way to stuff it up near the strut.


most likely the pads will stay put on the caliper bracket(that thing that is holding the pads) you can remove the pads. try to remember how the hardware is located ont he pads or caliper bracket.

one the pads are removed,(if you are removing the rotors) get your 17 or 18 mm socket and remove the two short bolts that are on the cylinder bracket. these also face the motor.

once these bolts are off youcan, well it will actually fall off unless you are holding on to it.

the rotor most likely will be loose and you can simply remove it.


******if you are only changing pads, when you are loosening the bolts on the caliper, only remove the bottom bolt and make sure the threads are still attached on the top so it swings up.




so replace the rotor with new one or resurfaced one.




next bolt up the caliper bracket with the short bolts. don't forget to tighten well. i do not know what to torque them down to. i have a sweet torque wrench but rarely use it like i should.

clean the rotor with brake cleaner and wipe off with a clean rag

next place the new pads in the caliper bracket , make sure the hardware is correct.

take off the top of the brake fluid reservior. you will see why later

with the c-clamp you will use an old brake pad to push back the piston in the caliper(the round thing on the inside of the caliper.

place the brake pad over the piston and clamp down slowly. push it back as far as possible SLOWLY.
one it is as far back as possible, remove the clamp and old pad.

you now want to put the caliper back on the rotor. you will have to line up the bolts and tighten down, make sure they are tight.


reinstall tire, don't forget to remove jackstand and jack

make sure to place cap back on fluid reservior.


** before you drive anywhere or move the car make sure you start the car and pump the brakes until the pedal feel is hard.

some people make the mistake of not doing this and don't have the brakes the 1st time they hit them.

try to avoid hard stops or riding the brake for about 500 miles or so for the break in period


enjoy your savings

 

jesus dall, thats was awesome. U have no idea how much u helped me. thanks again. now I got a project for tomorrow and deff excited about it. Just hope I dont mess it up lol. One question I had is im prob gona be doing this outside. Its like 30 degrees outside tho lol Does it matter? does the brake fluid need to be room temp in a garage or can It be cold?

 

do you want to be cold? it is up to you

 

lol i guess it dosnt matter. lol thanks again and im ready to freeze my *** off!

 

Ok I went to do brakes, Thought that it was the rears I needed. I get wheel off and I notice that the pads are brand new! The cylinder was jammed/rusted or something so does that mean I need new calipers? OH AND TO MAKE THINGS EVEN WORSE, the bottom bold I needed to unscrew off caliper so I can swivel it up broke off. half of bolt is in metal caliper. Now I gotta drill it out! WTF! I shoud have had someone do it for me. So much for learning!

 

u shouldn't need to drill it out if you're taking the caliper bracket off.

and for another writeup by yours truely that focused on the rear, you can go here: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...74#post3114774

hardy har har :-)

I have 3.04 quadrillion posts. So there y'all!

I'm on maxima, altima, mazda626, mazda mx3, mazda mx6, 323f, lexus, toyota, subaru and probably one or two sites that i forget. haha [im being totally serious about those sites though just not the 3.04 quadrillion]

 

i think the issue was mostly that some new guy doesn't really have the same rights to talk smack as someone who's been around a while... there's that certain amount of familiarity that you don't have when you're new on the forum.