I did compression test on my 1997 ( 140 K ) .
The result came out to be arround 185 psi in all cylinders .
Is this ok . Any one knows what is minimum .

 

sounds good. i think anything above 140 should be pretty good. But what you're really looking for is the difference between cylinders. If all cylinders are around same PSI, then your engine's got good compression.

 

If you get anywhere near 160psi on them. You're just abuot to start to get into big trouble. The specification for a '97 1mz-fe is 218psi, a bare minimum of 145psi, with no more than 15psi differance between any cylinder.

Warm it alllll the way up more & try it again. If the numbers don't come up alittle higher, add a tablespoon, or two of oil in each cylinder & re-test. If it jumps up higher then - it's the rings & cylinder wall seal wearing. If it doesn't move. The valves may need cleaning and/or adjusting.

185psi isn't bad. It's just alittle low. To make that relative for you. A 3vz-fe's compression starts at 178psi @ 9.6:1 static compression ratio. You're probably hovering around a 10.0:1 CR when you're all warm.

2-3 horsepower lost across the board. No big deal.


Sounds good for 140,000 miles.

 

I think cost of replacing rings or valves will be more than just buying a low milage es300 ( As I don't know how to do it ) . I will keep it for another couple of years . Or I will replace it with an imported japanes Engine .
Thanks for you input .
I change oil every 2000 miles .

 

Your engine is 100% fine. Don't worry about it. Just do an oil flush here & there & do basic maintenance. 2,000m is quite excessive tho, but it's your car.


Personally... Change it at 4,500m with a descent dino oil. Take the saved money & install a remote filter. Use one of the huge quart & a half Denso filters, or install a by-pass dual filter. And add an oil cooler.

Add a transmission cooler to that list later on & you'll be crazy good.

 

Besides. For all you know u may not have had it warmed up all the way & sealing. Which lowers all the compression numbers.

 

what i need to do a compression test and where can i get it??


and HOW do i do it???>. warm the engine up and put the compressier or whatever in where the spark plug use to be and crank the engine??....

 

A compression gauge (About $5 at Harbor Freight for a cheap gauge), or a Leak-down tester.

You warm the enigne all the way up. Pull the EFI fuse to disable fuel & spark. Take all the plugs out. Block the throttle WIDE open. Put the gauge in each cylinder & turn it over & watch the gauge. It should build steady pressure until it tops out around 6-10 revolutions. In your case 150psi minumum, 178psi normal. No more than 14psi differance between any cylinders. Over 165psi is great. 160psi & under says it's wearing. A valve isn't sealing properly, or the rings are not sealing 2 the cylinder wall.
Write all the numbers down. After you do it once, re-test it again & drop 2 tablespoons of oil into each cylinder before you do it. If the compression jumps up alot. The rings are causing some leaking. If it doesn't it's the headgasket, or most likekly the valves.

If the compression is high, it's because there are boatloads of carbon in that combustion chamber.




There's an endless list of things. Just bring me the numbers. I'll tell you whats going on LoL!

 

thanks B... don't know what i'll do without your knowledge..

i'll get this test thing done once in for all..

 

I bought the instument from Walmart for 25 dollars . Its worth it . Very easy to do the test .

 

Hello Folks,
I am back after one year. My 97 es300 has 190,000 miles now. Still running smooth. I used seafoam and then tested compression test (1st done at 140K ). Now the compression test gave me 205 except one cylinder @ 190. That is surprising becasue at 140 K my car had 185 to 190 . Now (at 190 K) I tested multiple times and it gave me 205 in 5 cylinders and 190 in one. Any explanation ?. May be I did not check right at 140 K ( thought)
Thanks

 

Has anyone actually dropped a new engine into their 300ES? What did it cost?

 

Can anyone tell me if the seafoam will stop the oil leak and bring up the compression

 

No, it will not.

If leaking from valve guide seals, you need to replace the seals. If from the pan you need to either tighten the bolts per spec or replace the gaskets.

But you mentioned compression so I think you believe your cylinder rings are leaking? that is a rebuild time.

 

why did you check the compression? is the car not running well? as they say on Car Talk, DRIVE IT!