There is a "sock" filter as part of the fuel pump, no fuel filter under the hood. What makes you think the filter is clogged?

 

hi, the engine would start sputtering and misfiring, it would drop in rpm and the engine would make rattling noise

 

I suggest making a thread, and post a video if possible.

 

alright thank you.

 

I just picked a very fine 2005 ES and it came with only one key. I took it to a locksmith to get another one and he went through the arcane procedure listed above. What genius came up with this?

My owner's manual makes mention of various features which can be programmed by the Lexus dealer (such as auto door unlock with ignition off). Why can't we do this ourselves?

Stomp your feet, rub your tummy, turn around and clap three times!

Why isn't there a device much like a auto analyzer which plugs in to the maintenance port?

 

Hello to everyone.

I just had to ask whether anyone has tried to lift your own car. I have a 1992 Lexus ES300 and would like to put a 2 or 3 inch upper in it. I have read about a supple kit, but I wanted to ask first: does anyone have any advice on the subject?

Thanks!

 

There is no way to do this safely. Can raise the back end a bit by using 1992-1996 Camry springs but it won't be 3 inches.

 

Hi everyone,

My 2006 Lexus has a problem with the instrument panel backlighting. The green backlights for the driver's side temperature and seat warmer controls are out (see attached picture). The indicator lights for the seat warmer/cooler do work.

Does anyone know where I can find replacement bulbs or have the part numbers? Any help is appreciated!

Backlight bulbs not working for the driver temp and seat warmer.

 

90010-03049 probably

 

I ordered my bulbs right from the Lexus dealer. You can search the Lexus dealer part’s microfiche and pick the ones you need.

I tried to buy some aftermarket ones and I most cases they didn’t fit tight and would flicker or fall out.

 

I just did the high pressure line from the p/s pump to rack and wanted to post a few tips before I forget. This is for a 4ES, 3ES is similar but the hose mounting brackets are different. I watched these two videos to get a good idea of the job; and . I couldn't find a video specifically for the 4ES. You shouldn't have to pull off the windshield wiper cowl, and I'm not sure if it will give you much more room.

This is a picture of the hose; The upper bracket my finger is pointing towards might be possible to get off without removing the upper intake plenum. My hands are pretty small but I couldn't get to the nut with a flex head ratcheting wrench. I didn't even try to get to the second bracket without taking off the intake plenum. Looking at it again, you may or may not be able to access the bracket from under the car but I didn't try this. If you do pull the intake, there is way more room for the rest of the job. The lower bracket is two pieces; I ended up leaving the original bracket in, and only removing the small bit that actually clamps on the hose (circled in red).


This is a picture looking at the firewall with the plenum off. There are 3 14mm bolts that mount to the back of the intake and throttle body, circled in red. The one on the passenger side is a pain in the *** to get off, used a flex head ratcheting wrench for that one. The other two have a decent amount of room, was able to use a 3/8 ratchet. Circled in blue is the upper hose mount if you want to try getting at it without pulling the intake. You will probably have to do this blind if you try, I could barely fit my hand between the firewall and intake plenum. If you can pull down that upper wiring loom it would be helpful. I don't know if the clips (circled in green) can be pulled off, I tried yanking on them a bit but I didn't want to tear any wires so I just left them there. I was able to take the intake out without removing the strut brace, but it could make your life a little easier if you did. If you haven't done this before, mark all the hoses or take some good pictures. Don't forget the pcv valve hose either. I forgot it was there and it popped off the intake plenum. It might be better to take the hose off of the pcv valve instead and leave it on the plenum, as it appears easier to put the hose back on once you're done.


pic looking down the firewall, as you can see the lower hose mount is down there quite a bit, and I could only see the clamping bolt so I just took that one off. You will need some good dexterity to replace the clamping portion without dropping it a bunch of times and throwing it across the yard. There's a little locating tab you can sort of see on the left side of the clamping bit, I would recommend seating that, and trying to tape the mount in place before you try to thread in the bolt. There's so little room between the lower hose mount and the firewall.

I forgot to take pictures of the pump side, the videos should help but it's pretty straight forward. I went in through the wheel well and unclipped the wiring for the pressure sensor switch. I think one of the videos unthreads the pressure sensor from the union/banjo bolt; if you have a deep 24mm socket you can just remove the union bolt directly. I cracked it with a ratchet, some extensions, and a u joint adapter, and then unthreaded it by hand through the wheel well; the pressure sensor wiring terminal seems pretty fragile (20+ year old plastic in my case) so you definitely do not want to drop it.

This is the worst part, getting the flare nut out of the hose end. There is maybe 3 inches between the front stabilizer bar and the subframe. You can see the hard line is held in by its own mounting bracket and a destroyed bushing. The bracket was too close to the flare nut so I couldn't get a flare wrench on it at first. I went in through the top of the engine bay with some extensions and a u joint with a 10mm socket. This bracket has an upper and lower piece; the 10mm holds the two together. There is another, 12mm bolt that holds the bottom of the bracket to the frame. I loosened both, but left a few threads on so I didn't have to do gymnastics trying to get it mounted back on. I reached up through the space in front of the subframe by the differential and got a 17mm flare nut wrench on it that way. You could also use a crows foot on an extension and run it through the driver's side wheel well to get to the flare nut which might be a better option. Take your time at this part, and if the flare nut seems stuck try a different approach.

If you crack the flare nut, you did it and now you just put everything back together. The intake plenum was hard to get lined up with all the back mounts so you might have to yank on the mounts a bit to line up the holes. I did the upper to lower plenum bolts and nuts first so that you are mostly lined up for the back bolts.

If the flare nut is stuck and you round it off like an idiot (me) you will need to replace the hardline from the hose to the rack as well. This piece is pretty cheap on rock auto. Here is how the FSM wants you to do it.



If you needed to read through this then good luck, be patient and it should be a simple job. The factory service manual can be found on charm.li, I don't even remember how I found the Hayne's manual but it didn't really help much for this.