So here’s the situation on my older 2005 Lexus. Car has 130,000 miles. The car was starting to make some Pretty loud clunking sounds, So I took it to the mechanic, and he told me that the engine mounts were broken and needed to replaced and also the front struts. I took that information to a second mechanic who told me that he thought it was the lower control arms. He didn’t actually drive the car like the first mechanic or have it up on the lift so I decided to go with the diagnosis of the first mechanic. so total parts and labor was basically around $2000 , and after the repair, the clunky noise is less but still there. so I think it did help but did not solve it completely. I took to take the car back to the mechanic who did the repair job and I says I think there could be an issue with the transmission. I’m really frustrated at this point so I decided to take it to a third mechanic and puts the cars on the lift and I informed him of the history and information and he looks at all the suspension parts, lower control, arms, bushings, and he was not able to see any play in the suspension at all.

In summary, he didn’t know what is was, and it’s a very tricky clunking noise to identify because it only happens when you break at very slow speeds of like under 3 mph and when you let go of the pedal and also makes that same clunky noise.


So I’ve ruled out the following: motor and transmission mounts which were replaced struts and strut mounts, and which were replaced.
Lower control arms bushings, which were inspected and ball joints, which were inspected no play anywhere in the suspension noticeable with a pry bar. Not the brake pads .

Any guesses? Other than the inconvenience of a little clunking noise the car drives really fine but it’s more of a mental hurdle to get over because I spent so much money on an old beater.

 

anyone?

 

Sway bar links?

 

Took me forever to figure out my sway bar bushings were causing clunking.

 

did this happen driving or braking?

 

The last mechanic said to not worry about it and just to drive it and until it got worse, and then you could probably figure out where it came from as it would loosen up…haha

 

Too add more details. The clunking happens but the brake pedal has to travel like 50% down … so like a light braking won’t engage the clunk!

 

Driving. I don't recall braking intiatiting the noise.

Edit: I had the clunking noise while hitting the pedal (lightly) and it was the classic LCA blown out bushing, something even a shade tree mechanic should be able diagnose.

 

mine is definitely not the lower control arm because that would be easily tested once on the lift with a pry bar for movement.
I’m thinking it’s gotta be something not obvious because two qualified mechanics weren’t able to find it. May require a trip to the dealer who will put the chassis ears on it.

 

It would be cheaper to get the sway bar links and bushings replaced than paying a dealer to futz around with your car, then charge you for parts.

 

Swaybar links typically make noises if you are turning, and it would be a constant rattle, right? My clunk only happens at very slow speeds and only clunks when I brake.

 

Links rattle going over speed bumps that kind of thing not a constant rattle.

 

Hello,

A video of the Noise would be helpful, it is pure guessing without hearing Noise in question.

Are you sure all the Calipers are Tightened correctly?
What Parts were used for the repair in the Initial Post?

Put the Car in Drive, then step on the Brakes and try quickly pressing and releasing the Throttle, creating Load to the Engine and the Mounts, see if you can hear the Noise in question, that will Isolate the Drivetrain from the Suspension. Then try the Opposite, find an empty Road and keep the Throttle pressed roughly the same amount, then Apply and Release Brakes while holding the Throttle, which can Isolate the Brakes from the rest of the Car.

While at it, just keep in mind that the added Load results in more Heat, while it's safe to press both Gas and Brake at the same time, it's only safe to a point until the Torque Converter in the Transmission starts Overheating the Fluid, so make sure not to Hold both Pedals for more than 20 Seconds, and let the car Cool Down for 5 - 10 Minutes between each Test, just in case.

In my experience if the Noise is present but everything is in order, it's usually either the Sway Bar Bushings, or the Strut Mounts, at least on the MacPherson setup that you have. Whether it is caused by the Sway Bar in your case is hard to tell, sometimes it could be the movement of the Sway Bar itself that causes the Noise, when you go over a bump, you only load One of the wheels, Twisting the Sway Bar and Binding it against the Mount instead of actually Moving it, but coming to a Stop, you unload Both wheels at the same time, which can move the Sway Bar enough to cause the Clunk.

If the Links are still removable, they are pretty easy to inspect, though depending on your Region, more likely than not you will have to Cut them off due to Rust. Seeing the prices for both the Links and the Bushings, you may as well replace both, it's just not worth the time to take it all apart for an inspection and realize that it's in need of a replacement, especially if you are taking the car to a Mechanic.

I would go with OEM for the Bushings (P/N: 48815-33100), the price is right and they can at least be trusted. As for the Links, Toyota charges some obscene amounts for those (P/N: 48820-28050), so I decided to try ones made by Delphi on one of the other cars, here is a place to get them, a few months later and they are still solid, we'll see how they hold up in the long term, but considering the price difference, might as well replace them every year as part of a routine inspection.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

Thank you for the tip, the motor mounts were just replaced as that was originally part of the diagnosis. I went with the OEM mounts, all 4. which were quite expensive. I also replaced the front struts at their recommendations and I went with OEM strut mounts and KYB excel struts and I reuse the springs, with new bump stops. I wish the mechanic would’ve told me to replace this sway bar and links at that same time and it would save me on labor.. The parts doesn’t look too expensive and I spoke to a couple mechanics and it’s not a big job just to replace the seat bar links. Or I can just let it go and replace everything when my lower control arms need to be replaced at some point.

 

Ok, got it. I spoke to another mechanic, and he thought it might be the swaybar links too.