FromFL

On my '04 ES 330 I pulled a plug to see if they need replacing. 150,000 on the car which I just bought. They are NGK BK R6EGP, but I believe Toyota uses Denso so maybe I answered my own question. Bonus question: Does it look worn? I didn't measure the gap...should have, I know.

LeX2K

AFAIK Denso was the only plug used originally, SK20R11. Looks like typical wear and fuel additive deposits the gap is certainly more than 0.44 thousands.

FromFL

Is there a DIY for plug change here in the forums? I know speedkar (sp) posted a great video but my God, what a job.

Oro

No, not original. That is a performance fine-wire platinum plug. Original was long-life iridium.

When you get replacement plugs, generally wise to get long-life and not performance iridium so you can avoid the job for a long time. And don't be surprised to find the original plugs in the back bank; I've seen people claim spark plugs changes, then skip the back.

If you google "1mze-fe spark plug change" you'll find all you need to know. Speedkar's vid is pretty tops in that regard. A stubby 1/4" and 3/8" ratchet driver can be a real go-send on some of the back bolts. If you are simply methodical about it, it's not that bad. While you have the intake open, it is wise to really scrub the intake butterflies and chamber with B12 or something aggressive with a bottle brush. (Remove the intake shield and do the area past it, too). This will help prevent the low idle these cars develop as they mile-up. It is also easier to service the PCV valve w/the intake off. it can be done with it on; it's just easier and a good time to double-check it.

As an aside, I currently have Autolite Iridium installed (XP3923), and have for ~55k miles and 3.5 years. They are performing perfectly and looking good. I tried them as an experiment since they were about $1/plug after rebate from RockAuto. Otherwise I would use NGK long-life iridium.

FromFL

Thanks for that information and yes, I fully expect the rear plugs are the originals! Luckily, this is a back-up/project car, so it won't have to be a rush job.

FromFL

Just finished doing this, not bad at all of a job! All the plugs in the back were actually changed out at some point, amazingly. In went the Denso Iridiums.

I broke the vacuum switching valve (the one with the blue plug), but no CEL so far so I'm in no hurry (anyone know its role in the EVAP system?).
Car runs as before, no difference.

Question, though. There were only 2 brackets holding the back of the assembly. One 12mm to the backside of the throttle body, and a 14mm holding the passenger side so one bracket is missing, thought maybe an inpatient teck shoved it out of the way, bit no, its missing. Is one missing, or do some come this way?

The bolt hole that goes to the missing bracket is marked with an orange square.

Oro

Thanks for following up. I also agree, it's not THAT bad a job. One thing that made it super easy to me was stubby ratchets, cheap set like this:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piec...ets-46742.html

It's $11 and it is amazingly helpful on this job and others occasionally.


Do you mean the black square to the left of the intake, a little forward, plugs into a blue harness from below? There are actually many labeled "VSV's" throughout the system. If that is what you mean, what it will likely do is f'up your warm idle. Notice if that drops down to ~600rpm. I accidentally left this disconnected after cleaning my ISV's and butterflies, and that is what I observered. then found the disconnected blue chassis harness and corrected it.

May be someone else can figure it out, but that photo looks like a Mars Rover panorama of IDKTFW. I see an Interstate battery in the lower right jammed under IDW and then traversing to random plastic. Looks nothing like any Toyota or Lexus engine bay I have ever seen. I see random parts I recognize in places they don't belong. Try taking a clear pic in daylight, without using weird effects or settings.

LexusB5

LOL, I think your right about the panorama shot as those parts are not in that configuration or orientation.

The VSV or vacuum switch valves play a role in the EVAP, cold start and idle, and Hydraulic Motor mount. I would like more information on what the working parameters are on this system, as they control three separate intake valve systems that I have ran both hooked and unhooked to vacuum with almost no noticeable change to engine operations except an increase in RPM on cold start.