When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey y'all, question. i have a 98 es300. How flush does CV axle supposed to be against the transaxle? I am in the middle of replacing my CV axle assembly and am not sure how far in is correct.
So far when i try to put it in it goes to the blue line, is it supposed to go to the red?
Not sure if my eyes are tricking me but I don't see a snap ring on the axle. When installing the axle to the transmission it goes in until the snap ring engages and you're done. Or is that the RH side?
Not sure if my eyes are tricking me but I don't see a snap ring on the axle. When installing the axle to the transmission it goes in until the snap ring engages and you're done. Or is that the RH side?
Excellent observation. No this is the drivers side. The snap ring on my new cv axle assembly was getting stuck prematurely and I took off the old oem snap ring to replace it on the new axle.
The photos here are my old CV axle test fitting because i wanted to see how far it was supposed to go in so I have an idea of how far the new one is supposed to go in.
I haven’t installed axles on this generation, BUT, clearly that flange goes up to the unit. Is the item in between the seal? Because what you may be experiencing is the need to drive that seal in. If so, I can explain how to do it. If it is metal and the seal is separate, wherebis the seal? Already in the housing like on the 4es?
I haven’t installed axles on this generation, BUT, clearly that flange goes up to the unit. Is the item in between the seal? Because what you may be experiencing is the need to drive that seal in. If so, I can explain how to do it. If it is metal and the seal is separate, wherebis the seal? Already in the housing like on the 4es?
The seal is within the transaxle. Yes the item is within the seal however even without a snap ring the axle will not go in any further. Even on the old oem axle i just pulled out.
One thing to do is examine the seals? Did you put in new ones? If not, and the the old just slid out, you MIGHT get away with re-using them as they may not have been damaged. If axles are very difficult to get out, then the seals often get damaged and have to be replaced, also.
Again, to me it looks like it needs to be driven in as that must be the sealing surface, unless it's the narrower surface just below. The diameter of the seal will tell you. Also, when you put it in, you have to go until the snap ring catches and that will determine it.
One thing to do is examine the seals? Did you put in new ones? If not, and the the old just slid out, you MIGHT get away with re-using them as they may not have been damaged. If axles are very difficult to get out, then the seals often get damaged and have to be replaced, also.
Again, to me it looks like it needs to be driven in as that must be the sealing surface, unless it's the narrower surface just below. The diameter of the seal will tell you. Also, when you put it in, you have to go until the snap ring catches and that will determine it.
The seal did not move at all or come out when the old axle first came out. its on there pretty tight. I honestly cant tell when the snap ring is in. As much as it goes in on its own, it only reaches the red line in the photo above and will go in any further whether a snap ring is on or not. Looks like i might have to drive it in.
Try rotating the axle a bit and gently-ish hammer the end of the axle. If it doesn't go in rotate a bit and try again you do have to overcome the tension off the snap ring. Don't mushroom the end of the axle, also the axle doesn't look like it's in all the way.
You SHOULD have to drive it in. Like L2k said, you have to overcome the snap-ring. Also, the seal-to-axle simply can't be frictionless or you'd have ATF puking out all the time.
I have a 3 pound hammer that I use for things like this. Get the axle lined up as straight as possible. Place a piece of wood over the end to help from distorting it ("mushrooming" as he said), and make some solid blows on it. If you have a dead blow hammer, even better.
You SHOULD have to drive it in. Like L2k said, you have to overcome the snap-ring. Also, the seal-to-axle simply can't be frictionless or you'd have ATF puking out all the time.
I have a 3 pound hammer that I use for things like this. Get the axle lined up as straight as possible. Place a piece of wood over the end to help from distorting it ("mushrooming" as he said), and make some solid blows on it. If you have a dead blow hammer, even better.
If you didn't remove both axles at the same time then simply follow the instructions above.
If you did, well then I am sorry for your luck, but you will have to rebuild your differential, as the input gears inside the transaxle will fall to the bottom of the housing without at least one axle in place.
If you didn't remove both axles at the same time then simply follow the instructions above.
If you did, well then I am sorry for your luck, but you will have to rebuild your differential, as the input gears inside the transaxle will fall to the bottom of the housing without at least one axle in place.
I only ended up replacing the drivers side this time. Thanks for the advice though. Great to keep in mind!
08-23-18, 07:05 PM
CV axle help!
