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2003 es300-oil pan bolt torque spec

 
Old 04-14-17, 07:17 PM
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VicSWFL
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Default 2003 es300-oil pan bolt torque spec

Greetings all:

I drained the oil in my 2003 ES300 today. I noticed that there was oil (no drips yet) on the passenger side of the pan along flat area with the bolts. I'm hoping that tightening will solve this rather than changing the gasket. Can anyone provide the torque spec for the oil pan bolts for my car.

Thank you,

Vic
Fort Myers, Florida
2003 ES300 Millennium Silver w/114K miles

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Old 04-14-17, 07:43 PM
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71 INCH pounds
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Old 04-14-17, 07:47 PM
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I'm going off of the 3ES 1MZ-FE. Factory service manual says to torque the 10 bolts and 2 nuts to 8 N•m or 69 in•lb or 5.74 ft•lb.
When I redid my oil pan gasket I didn't have a torque wrench that could go that low so I went to Harbor Freight and picked this one up.
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Old 04-14-17, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by WILLYumD View Post
I'm going off of the 3ES 1MZ-FE. Factory service manual says to torque the 10 bolts and 2 nuts to 8 Nm or 69 inlb or 5.74 ftlb.
When I redid my oil pan gasket I didn't have a torque wrench that could go that low so I went to Harbor Freight and picked this one up.
+1 on this, but I'd get their 1/4" torque wrench. Like the Tekton stuff from Amazon myself.

OP, if you ever do change the gasket, don't use a cork gasket available in the aftermarket (Fel-Pro comes to mind). Use FIPG, or Permatex Right Stuff Black (regular Permatex Ultra Black will work, as well) and seal it up proper, a good job will last you another 200k.
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Old 04-15-17, 12:47 PM
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Vic,

Our '02 has 270k and the gasket is wet like that. It has been that way for three years and 60k and still has never dripped. I bought a gasket a year ago to replace it and it is still on the shelf. So I would, besides re-torquing, not worry about it even if it stays wet but does not drip.
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Old 04-18-17, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by nsghtbrwry View Post
+1 on this, but I'd get their 1/4" torque wrench. Like the Tekton stuff from Amazon myself.

OP, if you ever do change the gasket, don't use a cork gasket available in the aftermarket (Fel-Pro comes to mind). Use FIPG, or Permatex Right Stuff Black (regular Permatex Ultra Black will work, as well) and seal it up proper, a good job will last you another 200k.
i have a Fel-Pro cork gasket that I put on mine. As long as its installed correctly (bolts tightened in the correct sequence) and torqued to spec, you shouldnt have any issues. RTV is terrible because it WILL leak, and once it does, you're gonna play hell cleaning it off the block and pan. The engine had a gasket there from the factory, RTV is not the right way to do it.
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Old 04-18-17, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ArmyofOne View Post
i have a Fel-Pro cork gasket that I put on mine. As long as its installed correctly (bolts tightened in the correct sequence) and torqued to spec, you shouldnt have any issues. RTV is terrible because it WILL leak, and once it does, you're gonna play hell cleaning it off the block and pan. The engine had a gasket there from the factory, RTV is not the right way to do it.
Whoa, this is the first I've heard/seen a cork gasket working well. My experience has been the opposite: I use FIPG and they stay sealed for 200k on average. I've always had a more difficult time getting shredded cork off pans...and it doesn't conform well to the grooves for FIPG, which is what starts the leaking. Usually when I get a Toyota/Lexus in with leaks, it's because somebody did reseal it (usually after 150-200k) and used something crappy like Permatex Ultra Grey.

Admittedly my newest Toyota product that I did this on is an '01 ES300...I just follow what the FSM says, so if you guys' cars came with a rubber/silicone/cork gasket from the factory, I figure you're doing it right by getting the same.
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Old 04-18-17, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by nsghtbrwry View Post
Whoa, this is the first I've heard/seen a cork gasket working well. My experience has been the opposite: I use FIPG and they stay sealed for 200k on average. I've always had a more difficult time getting shredded cork off pans...and it doesn't conform well to the grooves for FIPG, which is what starts the leaking. Usually when I get a Toyota/Lexus in with leaks, it's because somebody did reseal it (usually after 150-200k) and used something crappy like Permatex Ultra Grey.

Admittedly my newest Toyota product that I did this on is an '01 ES300...I just follow what the FSM says, so if you guys' cars came with a rubber/silicone/cork gasket from the factory, I figure you're doing it right by getting the same.
+1, FIPG is the way to go. That's how it's sealed from the factory as well, not with a gasket.
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Old 04-19-17, 01:00 AM
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here is what i think; i wouldn't re torque it. i would remove it, clean up both surfaces, and re seal it. With a copper silicone sealant. i would also clean out the pan very well with petrol and rags until it was spotless.

Then i would find the actual source of the leak, which is probably further up the engine. But I would only think of that after re sealing the sump.
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Old 04-19-17, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by nsghtbrwry View Post
Whoa, this is the first I've heard/seen a cork gasket working well. My experience has been the opposite: I use FIPG and they stay sealed for 200k on average. I've always had a more difficult time getting shredded cork off pans...and it doesn't conform well to the grooves for FIPG, which is what starts the leaking. Usually when I get a Toyota/Lexus in with leaks, it's because somebody did reseal it (usually after 150-200k) and used something crappy like Permatex Ultra Grey.

Admittedly my newest Toyota product that I did this on is an '01 ES300...I just follow what the FSM says, so if you guys' cars came with a rubber/silicone/cork gasket from the factory, I figure you're doing it right by getting the same.
FIPG works, the biggest problem with permatex is it doesn't expand/contact with the aluminum in the block. I havent personally tried the FIPG, but what was on mine when i pulled down was permatex grey, which is why it was leaking.

Originally Posted by hypervish View Post
+1, FIPG is the way to go. That's how it's sealed from the factory as well, not with a gasket.
No...i dont think thats correct. Nothing against you, but the oil pan on my 02ES has indentations on the pan and block consistent with a gasket surface. I would have to double check the service manual, but im almost certain it requires a gasket.
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Old 04-19-17, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ArmyofOne View Post
No...i dont think thats correct. Nothing against you, but the oil pan on my 02ES has indentations on the pan and block consistent with a gasket surface. I would have to double check the service manual, but im almost certain it requires a gasket.
Nope, FIPG from the factory for sure. I own 3 different 1MZ-FE engines, all were sealed from factory with FIPG, no gasket.

As per service manual, page 14-55:
63. INSTALL OIL PAN SUB−ASSY
(a) Remove any old seal packing from the contact surface.

(b) Apply a continuous bead of seal packing (Diameter 3 to
4 mm (0.12 to 0.16 in.)) as shown in the illustration.
Seal packing: Part No. 08826−00080 or equivalent
NOTICE:
Remove any oil from the contact surface.
Apply seal packing to the outer side of the bolt holes
in the region ”X”.
Apply seal packing to the inner side of the bolt holes
in the region ”Y”.
Install the oil pan within 3 minutes after applying seal
packing.
Do not expose the seal packing to engine oil within 2
hours after installing.
(c) Install the oil pan with the 15 bolts and 2 nuts. Tighten the
bolts uniformly in several steps.
Torque:
8.0 NVm (82 kgfVcm, 71 in.Vlbf) for 10 mm head
20 NVm (199 kgfVcm, 14 ftVlbf) for 12 mm head
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Old 04-20-17, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by hypervish View Post
Nope, FIPG from the factory for sure. I own 3 different 1MZ-FE engines, all were sealed from factory with FIPG, no gasket.

As per service manual, page 14-55:
ok, well I sit corrected

Either way, I put a gasket on mine. If it leaks, I guess I will go back to sealant.
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