'95 Lexus ES300 recommended rack & pinion work
#1
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
'95 Lexus ES300 recommended rack & pinion work
Firestone recommended rack & pinion work and states:
Rack & pinion
*rack leaking and play in outer tie rods*
311-0154 rack&pinion $449.99(parts)
remove & replace steering gear $360(labor)
(complete)
*replace tie rod &/or ends - each $12(labor)
ES3306 tie rod end $105.99(parts)
$1045.97 total
What is your recommendation?
Rack & pinion
*rack leaking and play in outer tie rods*
311-0154 rack&pinion $449.99(parts)
remove & replace steering gear $360(labor)
(complete)
*replace tie rod &/or ends - each $12(labor)
ES3306 tie rod end $105.99(parts)
$1045.97 total
What is your recommendation?
#2
Lexus Champion
Sounds expensive, and you may not need all this work. Are they quoting you original Lexus parts or aftermarket?
Get a second opinion from a garage that knows and works on Toyotas/Lexus, and which is recommended.
Don't forget a wheel alignment.
Get a second opinion from a garage that knows and works on Toyotas/Lexus, and which is recommended.
Don't forget a wheel alignment.
#3
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Thank you. I will have to see what I can find. I know there are some around that specialize in various Japanese manufacturers. There was quite a list of other things too, but an alignment would be last after the suspension work is done.
#4
Lexus Champion
Why do they want replace the Rack and Pinion? Is it leaking?
#5
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
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#8
Lexus Champion
The squeak could well be just a worn or loose power steering belt. Definitely get a second opinion on the rack and pinion, especially that you say that you don't see any leaks, and I assume that you're not low on power steering fluid.
#9
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I will have to check the fluid. I just know I have not seen any on the ground. Maybe it is not a very big leak. It makes sense that maybe it leaks a little to cause the squeak and then the seals warm up during operation. I would say it is not a belt squeak. The squeak is only when first turning the wheel in the morning after getting going.
Second opinions are always good.
Second opinions are always good.
#10
The loose tie rods can also be the rack's bushing has worn out, our gen has only 1 on the driver side.
Easy enough to change. Raise her, loosen sway bar drop links, , turn up the sway bar, then remove bolt, swap bushing and put back together then go align it, Heck it may straighten out on it's own with this repair
Easy enough to change. Raise her, loosen sway bar drop links, , turn up the sway bar, then remove bolt, swap bushing and put back together then go align it, Heck it may straighten out on it's own with this repair
#11
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
The loose tie rods can also be the rack's bushing has worn out, our gen has only 1 on the driver side.
Easy enough to change. Raise her, loosen sway bar drop links, , turn up the sway bar, then remove bolt, swap bushing and put back together then go align it, Heck it may straighten out on it's own with this repair
Easy enough to change. Raise her, loosen sway bar drop links, , turn up the sway bar, then remove bolt, swap bushing and put back together then go align it, Heck it may straighten out on it's own with this repair
#12
Did you check for yourself or taking the shops word for it?
Inner and Outer? There is only one tie rod on each side, if they mean the connections, I can not see the inner connection coming loose unless it was worked on in the past and PO did not torque it correctly. Again Outer tie rod is threaded on too so if loose, it just needs to be tightened. If the outer tie rod end bushing is ripped and leaking grease, then yes that one should be swapped out.
Again, if I were you, I would get a second opinion or look for yourself.
Your situation reminds me of when a shop told me me I was leaking radiator fluid in my air cooled 911. Excuse me?
Inner and Outer? There is only one tie rod on each side, if they mean the connections, I can not see the inner connection coming loose unless it was worked on in the past and PO did not torque it correctly. Again Outer tie rod is threaded on too so if loose, it just needs to be tightened. If the outer tie rod end bushing is ripped and leaking grease, then yes that one should be swapped out.
Again, if I were you, I would get a second opinion or look for yourself.
Your situation reminds me of when a shop told me me I was leaking radiator fluid in my air cooled 911. Excuse me?
#13
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Did you check for yourself or taking the shops word for it?
Inner and Outer? There is only one tie rod on each side, if they mean the connections, I can not see the inner connection coming loose unless it was worked on in the past and PO did not torque it correctly. Again Outer tie rod is threaded on too so if loose, it just needs to be tightened. If the outer tie rod end bushing is ripped and leaking grease, then yes that one should be swapped out.
Again, if I were you, I would get a second opinion or look for yourself.
Your situation reminds me of when a shop told me me I was leaking radiator fluid in my air cooled 911. Excuse me?
Inner and Outer? There is only one tie rod on each side, if they mean the connections, I can not see the inner connection coming loose unless it was worked on in the past and PO did not torque it correctly. Again Outer tie rod is threaded on too so if loose, it just needs to be tightened. If the outer tie rod end bushing is ripped and leaking grease, then yes that one should be swapped out.
Again, if I were you, I would get a second opinion or look for yourself.
Your situation reminds me of when a shop told me me I was leaking radiator fluid in my air cooled 911. Excuse me?
#15
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
Are you saying I may just have to replace or repack the inner and outer tie rod ends? I am fine with doing that if it is more cost effective and all that is needed.