2000 lexus es300 high pressure powersteering hose torque spec??
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2000 lexus es300 high pressure powersteering hose torque spec??
im replacing the high pressure line on the 2000 lexus es300 high pressure that goes from the pump to the rack. . the pump has a bolt with crush washers. so that should def have a torque spec but the other end looks like an open end wrench and snug it up good. so banjo bolt torque spec?
#2
The banjo bolt is 38 FT LBs, this screws into the actual powersteering pump with crush washers on both ends. The factory one is aluminum with both sides joined and aftermarket is usually copper.
The bolt you are talking about on the pump side is a Pressure Port Union that has a torque spec of 62 FT LBs.
And in case you were wondering the sensor that sits on top of the banjo bolt is 15FT LBs.
I ran into a problem removing the banjo bolt as the union port would also unscrew.I used a stubby crescent wrench to hold the Pressure union port bolt and butted the end of the wrench on the inside of the car so it would stop spinning.
I replaced 2 of these hoses in 1 day on a 98 and 99 Camry V6, not a particularly hard job but getting those bolts on those brackets that secure the hose was a huge PITA.
But yah both of those cars were leaking profusely from the high pressure hose. I also resealed the power steering pump with a OEM seal kit and replaced the lower rubber hose for the return line as it was slightly cracked.
The bolt you are talking about on the pump side is a Pressure Port Union that has a torque spec of 62 FT LBs.
And in case you were wondering the sensor that sits on top of the banjo bolt is 15FT LBs.
I ran into a problem removing the banjo bolt as the union port would also unscrew.I used a stubby crescent wrench to hold the Pressure union port bolt and butted the end of the wrench on the inside of the car so it would stop spinning.
I replaced 2 of these hoses in 1 day on a 98 and 99 Camry V6, not a particularly hard job but getting those bolts on those brackets that secure the hose was a huge PITA.
But yah both of those cars were leaking profusely from the high pressure hose. I also resealed the power steering pump with a OEM seal kit and replaced the lower rubber hose for the return line as it was slightly cracked.
#3
If you are using a kit, it probably comes with a new crush washer. If not, use a new one to prevent posisble leaks. You sometimes can get away reusing them, sometimes not. Given how hard it is to get at this, it's not worth it to try to re-use.
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yes after writing that i then watched some youtube videos to realize there is a sensor on top lol.i still did not look at it closely. so the sensor is seperate from the another bolt i guess the banjo bolt . the after market hose i got is the the Edelmann 92010. i dont know what material that is still the 62 foot pounds? then 15 for the sensor?. i need the short metal high pressure line that goes in to rack also it so rusty. this is going to be a next weekend job at this point . all the other ends dont get torqued they just get tightened up good so its just the bolt in pump with crush washers
#5
yes after writing that i then watched some youtube videos to realize there is a sensor on top lol.i still did not look at it closely. so the sensor is seperate from the another bolt i guess the banjo bolt . the after market hose i got is the the Edelmann 92010. i dont know what material that is still the 62 foot pounds? then 15 for the sensor?. i need the short metal high pressure line that goes in to rack also it so rusty. this is going to be a next weekend job at this point . all the other ends dont get torqued they just get tightened up good so its just the bolt in pump with crush washers
The trickiest part is getting off the banjo bolt, you can ignore the sensor up top as it doesn't need to be removed.
Your best bet is to use a 24mm deep socket U joint adapter, extensions, and breaker bar. make sure you use 1/2" stuff I used 3/8" drive u joints and broke them. There is not a lot of room in there so for me it was easier to get to it from up top.
If all your stuff is original the bolt on the pump side (pressure port) shouldn't unscrew if it was torqued properly at the factory. if it does you are in for a bit of trouble as you need something to hold it from moving while someone breaks the banjo bolt loose. Like I mentioned, this can be done with a stubby crescent wrench butted against the inner frame.
Another thing to note is that the heatshield is way crappier than the oem stuff, it's literally just foil wrapped padding with a crappy zip tie holding it. (you get what you pay for)
I replaced the white ziptie with a black one as the black ones tend to hold up better in the long run.
You also need to transfer the upper bracket not necessary but if you want an OEM fit, take a flat screw driver and hammer to pry open the crimp and transfer it to the Edelmann one. The other side bracket will just unbolt, (dont' lose the bolt and bracket when removing it as it can easier fall) Just peel off the rubber insulator and transfer it to the new hose.
The other end of the hose which goes to the rack and pinion, you need some wrenches, I think you can use a crescent wrench, as the size was a 22mm or something big (I had a set of flare nut wrenches that had the sizes that I needed) There is an O-ring here so be sure to put it on before you install the hose, coat it with a bit of power steering fluid.
Last edited by 808mcv20l; 02-07-16 at 10:25 PM.
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ok so a the sensor doesnt need to be unscrewed from the top of the banjo bolt and the deep 24mm socket will slide over everything and the new one is torqued to 62ftlbs??? but you loose torque going through extensions and swivels right? unless it can be torqued from bottom?
#7
ok so a the sensor doesnt need to be unscrewed from the top of the banjo bolt and the deep 24mm socket will slide over everything and the new one is torqued to 62ftlbs??? but you loose torque going through extensions and swivels right? unless it can be torqued from bottom?
Yes, don't remove the sensor just get a deep 24mm socket as mentioned it will slip over the sensor.
If your pump isn't leaking don't worry about it for now. If you were resealing the pump with a pump kit you will need to open the the pressure port that's on the Banjo bolt which screws into that pressure port is the one that needs to be torqued to 62 FT LBs.
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#9
#10
The banjo bolt is 38 FT LBs, this screws into the actual powersteering pump with crush washers on both ends. The factory one is aluminum with both sides joined and aftermarket is usually copper.
The bolt you are talking about on the pump side is a Pressure Port Union that has a torque spec of 62 FT LBs.
And in case you were wondering the sensor that sits on top of the banjo bolt is 15FT LBs.
I ran into a problem removing the banjo bolt as the union port would also unscrew.I used a stubby crescent wrench to hold the Pressure union port bolt and butted the end of the wrench on the inside of the car so it would stop spinning.
I replaced 2 of these hoses in 1 day on a 98 and 99 Camry V6, not a particularly hard job but getting those bolts on those brackets that secure the hose was a huge PITA.
But yah both of those cars were leaking profusely from the high pressure hose. I also resealed the power steering pump with a OEM seal kit and replaced the lower rubber hose for the return line as it was slightly cracked.
The bolt you are talking about on the pump side is a Pressure Port Union that has a torque spec of 62 FT LBs.
And in case you were wondering the sensor that sits on top of the banjo bolt is 15FT LBs.
I ran into a problem removing the banjo bolt as the union port would also unscrew.I used a stubby crescent wrench to hold the Pressure union port bolt and butted the end of the wrench on the inside of the car so it would stop spinning.
I replaced 2 of these hoses in 1 day on a 98 and 99 Camry V6, not a particularly hard job but getting those bolts on those brackets that secure the hose was a huge PITA.
But yah both of those cars were leaking profusely from the high pressure hose. I also resealed the power steering pump with a OEM seal kit and replaced the lower rubber hose for the return line as it was slightly cracked.
#11
but I would think that since the pump sits lower than the reservoir that should force the fluid out of the reservoir through the pump.
I used Vavoline Maxlife ATF instead of the usual powersteering fluid to refill it. I hooked up a long hose on the reservoir return line and turned the steering wheel lock to lock a few times to flush the old fluid out.
#12
I forget cause I believe I had already drained the reservoir prior.
but I would think that since the pump sits lower than the reservoir that should force the fluid out of the reservoir through the pump.
I used Vavoline Maxlife ATF instead of the usual powersteering fluid to refill it. I hooked up a long hose on the reservoir return line and turned the steering wheel lock to lock a few times to flush the old fluid out.
but I would think that since the pump sits lower than the reservoir that should force the fluid out of the reservoir through the pump.
I used Vavoline Maxlife ATF instead of the usual powersteering fluid to refill it. I hooked up a long hose on the reservoir return line and turned the steering wheel lock to lock a few times to flush the old fluid out.
#13
I have maxlife running in the powersteering of 3 of our Toyota/Lexus Cars.
#14
You mentioned using flare nut wrenches on the other end of the hose towards the rack. On my 02, the sway bar runs right underneath this fitting. I may have to use (buy) a crows foot wrench to get at it. Curious, was yours obstructed as well?
#15
Just make sure you change that o-ring to prevent leaks.
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