lexusfan05

I bought an used 2005 ES330 and it has the classic steering pop noise as described in the TSB ST001-05. I took it to the dealership and mentioned the TSB but they keep insisting that there were 3 TSBs on it and they just need to lubricate some steering column parts, not replace anything. First I didn't believe the tech but after researching some toyota avalon forums I am thinking it may be true (that the replacement intermediate shaft didn't fix the issue so they just lub it now).
Anyone know the real story or what the newer TSBs are? I didn't let them lub it because they want $350 for the job. I'll not spend the money until I'm convinced that's the real fix.

Thanks.

Timothyj

Toyota dealer told my 175 for the lub job. I have a 04 ES. I have a hard time hearing the pop noise, but I have hearing problems. Had other people listen for it, nothing. I'll wait also.

Tim

JSM1284

TSIB SUPERSESSION NOTICE

The information contained in this TSIB supersedes TSIB No. ST001-05.

^ Production Change Information has been removed.

^ The Warranty Information, Parts Information, and Repair Procedure sections have been updated to reflect removal, lubrication, and reinstallation of the steering intermediate shaft instead of replacement.


TSIB No. ST001-05 is Obsolete and any printed versions should be discarded. Be sure to review the entire content of this service bulletin before proceeding.

Introduction

Some customers may hear a clunk, pop, or knock type noise when turning the steering wheel left or right. Use the following procedure to lubricate the intermediate shaft and address customer concerns.



Warranty Information

APPLICABLE WARRANTY

^ This repair is covered under the Lexus Comprehensive Warranty. This warranty is in effect for 48 months or 50,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the vehicle's in-service date.

^ Warranty application is limited to correction of a problem based upon a customer's specific complaint



Parts Information

Repair Procedure

Steering Intermediate Shaft Removal

NOTE

Prior to removing the steering intermediate shaft, install a steering wheel holder to ensure that the steering wheel and front wheels remain stationary. Once the intermediate shaft is removed, do NOT allow the steering wheel to spin freely.

1. Disconnect the steering intermediate shaft sub-assembly



A. Loosen the bolt and remove the clamp from the steering column boot.

B. Separate the steering column hole cover from the boot.



C. Place matchmarks on the steering intermediate shaft sub-assembly and steering gear assembly.

D. Remove the bolt and disconnect the steering intermediate shaft sub-assembly



2. Remove the steering intermediate shaft sub-assembly.

A. Place matchmarks on the steering sliding yoke sub-assembly and steering main shaft assembly.

B. Remove the bolt and steering sliding yoke sub-assembly from the steering main shaft assembly.



3. Slightly lift the spline shaft upward and expose the splines. Two teeth have been machined down to allow a needle to be inserted to apply the lubricant. Once the missing spline has been located, mark it.

The other machined spline is located 180 degrees from the original.

4. Insert the needle into the shaft and then install the tube of lubricant to the needle.



5. After attaching lubricant to the needle, squeeze the tube to apply grease to the splined portion. All of the grease in the tube should be applied.

6. After applying the grease on one side, remove the needle from the shaft. Place the needle into the shaft on the opposite side (180 degrees from the original location) and add lubricant as performed in step 5



7. Hold the intermediate shaft from the upper and lower portions and compress and extend about 20 times to ensure that the lubricant is thoroughly distributed inside the splined portion of the intermediate shaft.


NOTE

Make sure that during this process, no foreign objects or material contaminate the grease.

Steering Intermediate Shaft Installation

1. Install the steering intermediate shaft sub-assembly.



A. Align the matchmarks on the steering sliding yoke sub-assembly and the steering main shaft.

B. Install the steering sliding yoke sub-assembly with the bolt.

Torque: 35.3 N*m (360 kgf*cm, 26 ft*lbf)




2. Connect the steering intermediate shaft sub-assembly.

A. Align the matchmarks on the steering intermediate shaft sub-assembly and the steering gear assembly.

B. Install the steering intermediate shaft sub-assembly with the bolt.

Torque: 35.3 Nm (360 kgf*cm, 26 ft*lbf)

C. Install the steering column hole cover to the boot.

D. Connect the clamp to the steering column hole cover boot and tighten the bolt.


3. Road test the vehicle to ensure that the noise is gone

lexusfan05

Thanks a lot for the TSB. This seems to be the thing the tech was talking about.

lexusfan05

After researching some more in the toyota forums, I decided to give it a try myself. I bought the grease kit and found the injection holes in the intermediate shaft under the dash. I injected grease without taking anything apart and the noise in mostly gone. It took a day or two to get the noise down so I will give it a few more days of driving to see if it completely goes away.

MicahBerry

I performed the procedure similar to Lexusfan, but I used chain lube for my motorcycle, which comes out as a liquid, and firms up over the next 30 - 60 minutes. I thought that this would allow it to get in the different splines as I rotated the wheel during the application. I initially used aluminum foil to make a funnel to keep drips from getting on the carpet. I was planning on doing multiple applications, but we needed to drive the car right after my first application. The clunk was almost gone - I was very surprised. It took 10 minutes, or so, but it has *almost* gone away. The steering "feels" better too. I put quotes around "feel" because I'm not sure if I believe it fully or not. I would describe the feel as smoother, possibly tighter. In my second application that evening, I simply sprayed slowly, and worked my way around the shaft, letting the liquid drain into the splines before going further. I will put on another application either tonight or tomorrow, just for fun. I haven't driven the car since after my first application.

I'm attaching a picture of where I sprayed the chain lube for us visual learners. I used chain lube because if it can silence my 530 sized chain when running interstate speeds and not fling off (much) between applications every 600 miles, then I figure it wouldn't hurt to try it in the intermediate shaft. And boy, does it thicken up after it sets! Time will tell, but for a nearly free application requiring only 15 minutes or so to apply, I'm very happy.

JackW

I own a 2005 es 330 with 44000 miles on it and also had same problem. After researching the problem, I decided to attempt fixing the problem myself. I went to the local Lexus dealer and verified the TSB bulletin listed above is current and purchased the grease kit (August, 2013). then I found that the instructions didi not have the correct illustrations as the es330, and was really a generic copy oy the Toyota similar TSB. Rather than attempting to take the shaft apart with questionable illustrations, I attempted to inject the grease into the shat, but did not see any injection holes, so I tried the alternate solution mentioned above with the motorcycle chain oil. sprayed it around the shaft spline a number of times allowing it to soak in, then test driving the car while turning the wheel a number of times around the block, clunking sound is gone. I am very happy with the results so far and hope it lasts. Not being a mechanic, I really question how following the TSB is really possible with parts not matching illustrations. Hope this helps next person with same problem.

MicahBerry

Interesting that this subject was brought up. About every 6 months or so, I'll shoot the shaft with a little motorcycle chain lube, and it's good to go.

The can's spray tube is too large to fit into the application holes, so I went around the shaft, spraying the chain lube in various locations, and allowing it time to soak in. That gave me good results. At this point, I just shoot it once, let it soak, and it's good to go. Come to think of it, I don't think I have given it any chain lube for 8 or 9 months. It's working fine right now, but I will probably give it a little lube just because I like the idea of having it in there.

Micah

missmcat

Hey, and thanks in advance. 2005 ES 300, she just turned 50K.
Has anyone had this repaired at dealer? I need it done eventually, it doesn't bother me, and it doesn't hurt the car to wait a little bit... but it needs to be done. It was diagnosed by a Lexus Master Tech. (friends hubby, road trip country tour now, out of touch except for emergencies)
I need to budget for the time at the dealer... toyota is $110 an hour and Lexus is $140.

thanks sincerely

mmatheny

How in the world did you get a TSB done out of warranty? I had a TSB on the rear leaf springs on my '08 Taco and they WOULDN'T do the TSB because it was out of warranty!

missmcat

I didn't. Hence asking the question about labor. And I have absolutely no clue what an '08 taco is.

mmatheny

2008 Tacoma!

missmcat

oh, thought it may have been that