So, I’ve got a ‘02 es300 and the 41.22 brand kill switch, that goes in-line with the starter relay. I’m wondering if anyone has advice on where a good place is to mount the toggle switch? I see there might be places in the driver’s side footwell, but I kinda don’t want it to be that obvious. A little hidden, but still accessible by the driver.
Also, when running the relay wire from the fuse box, where is a good place to run/exit that wire? I can see there might be a spot under the fuse box, where it looks like all the engine’s wires might feed into, but that requires getting that box out, which looks like a pain. Drilling a hole in the side of the box seem kinda ghetto, and I don’t want to compromise the waterproof abilities of that box. If anyone has any ideas, I think I can handle the rest of the install. It’s just those two things that are holding me up. Thanks in advance!

 

I would never ever steal a car but if I did it would mean I have the skills to defeat the factory security features. A kill switch would be something I would easily discover.

 

Thanks, but I’m not trying to debate whether it’s needed or not. It’s for peace of mind when I park in sketchy neighborhoods, so the average crackhead can’t start my car and/or take it on a crime sprees. I understand why ppl might not think they need it, but it’s my investment and I’ll take my precautions as I see fit.

 

Average person can't take your car without the proper key it won't start. Person with the skills to defeat the security features won't be fooled by a simple kill switch at least I wouldn't be.

If you insist on using that kill switch device then put the switch in the least obvious place which also means hard to access.

 

Hello,

That reminded me of the good old days of Transmission Locks, where people would install actual House Door Locks on the Shifter Assembly to prevent the car from going into gear, saying that it's the definitive way of preventing theft.. Just like with those locks, I thought that the Kill Switches were well and truly dead at this point, ChrisFix proved me wrong, and probably sparked a new wave of people looking to implement it.

As stated previously, aside from being a considerable chore for your own self, it won't pose any noticeable challenge to anyone capable of overcoming Factory Security System. If you are really concerned about security of your 22 year old vehicle, the only viable way would be to implement an actual, multi-stage security system with backups and redundancies, which can cost about as much as an entire parts car.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

All good, thanks for the input.

 

Sorry for my poor attitude. I thought I needed this “kill switch” and even after I installed it correctly, it never worked. I had electrical gremlins from the get-go and they refused to take blame, insisting I send the relay back(multiple times) after the 3rd attempt by them to fix the problem, I gave up and demanded my money back. Which I got.
I was wrong, and I apologize for my bad attitude on this forum and now I’m moving on from that idea. I suppose if I ever get an inkling for an extra security device, either “The Club” or a seatbelt security thing from Amazon is a better idea than this. But probably not needed.
Oh well… Moving on..

 

I didn't think you came across with a poor attitude. Many people and companies have tried to come up with "fool proof" anti theft devices they've all failed if someone wants your car bad enough they'll take it. Organized crime networks tow your car away not much you can do about that.

Some cars like my Tesla are somewhat theft proof if the car is taken then it will be black listed so no more fast charging. The car can still be stripped for parts but some of the modules will also be black listed. Even with that body and interior pieces can be sold for profit.

One trick that is effective is having a car with air suspension that can be slammed to the ground, very hard to take a car when you can't get under it.