Ok Everyone this is my first time working on a hybrid so yeah... My Girlfriend has a 2012 Ct200h and has been having on and off issues.
unfortunately before we were together she was well taken advantage of buy her local mechanic and they had her replace her engine with a used engine when she was having issues., but the issues never went away
recently it popped a code for bad coil in 2 & 4 then it was just #4.
she kept taking it back to the shop because they carried the warranty. but after it sitting there for 3 weeks they sent it home with a new coil in #4 because they couldn't replicate the error of #2

Now its showing a code error in #2 again and its ridging rough ( like going on shudder strips ) so I was going to replace it myself. I have hear that it can be difficult getting top the plugs and coils on this model is that true?
and I know on my old V8 truck it wasn't as simple as 1->8 in series am I going to luck out and its just 1 to 4 left to right on this model?

 

No it's easy as pie. You just need a 10mm socket. Remove the engine cover (just pull it off) remove the electrical connector on the coil. Undo the nut and pull the coil out. I think you are correct about the order but I'm not 100% positive.

 

The coils are easy as said, assuming your issues are really the coils. That's extremely rare as the coils are low duty, low wear items, especially on a hybrid engine that is not even on half the time.

Are you sure it's not misfires? A misfire due to a compression/leak and/or HG problem would be more likely. You can also swap the coils and reset the code to see if the problem moves w/ the coil. If so, you 've got your answer.

 

At this point I am not sure. I was planning on replacing the plug and the coil.
Maybe its the plug that requires a special tool beyond the normal Plug socket?

Ii was loosing oil by 3 thousand or so miles it would go from full to low oil light on.
TH garage put some conditioner in hoping that would fix the issue. and it seems to be doing better.

the primary issue is even though the garage carry's the warranty for the replacement engine they don't know what's wrong.
is not going into the coolant and I don't see spots in the driveway so I honestly don't know where it was going and neither do they.
and they would keep it 1-2 weeks trying to figure it out only to do a oil change and say to use a heavier weight oil than true synthetic that's on the cap.

and we cant keep going without a car for weeks so I was trying to do it myself. it popped the code for misfire on #2 and when it was on #4 the garage replaced the plug and coil on it and the code went away

 

Spark plugs are very easy, but you need the correct socket that's thin walled and has the plug grabbers. You will also need an extension or two and a torque wrench is recommended for installation. You don't need to remove the cowl. At least inspect them. If you do buy new ones, get them from a chain store. I bought counterfeit ones and they caused misfire codes after 10,000 miles, don't risk ebay or amazon.

As was said, try swapping the coils and see if the misfire changes cylinders. You were correct about cylinder order looking from front of car 1-4, left to right.

Hopefully it's one of those, but I can't imagine a mechanic not being able to figure that out.

Keep a close eye on the coolant level. Main concern is head gasket leak.

 

That was exactly my thought but when I checked the oil I didn't see any white froth. or smoke from the tailpipe

 

if the issue is the coil packs, I have a set of 4 laying around

 

I replaced the coil and the plug.
it honestly looked that the mechanic had installed a new coil in #2 NOT #4 so as a test I moved the existing coil from #2 to #4. the plug seemed to have a slight burn line around the seam on the ceramic where it met the metal treads.
the oil was also VERY low but not to the point of showing a low oil light.

Here's my confusion I have no idea where the oil is going.
1- I checked the coolant res tank and so no frothy buts which I have always found when I had a blown head gasket.
2- there wasn't oil on the plug from a bad ring.
3 - and its not smoking.
4 - and there is no oil spots in the driveway she parks in the same spot
I honestly find it hard t=o believe that in the range of 3 thousand miles its burning all the oil when it never did this with the old engine?

what am I missing. this engine has a 1 year warranty on it so if its the engine I want to get it addressed while I can

 

The oil is probably being burnt. These engines are known to burn oil and Toyota even claims a rather large amount as 'normal' so that's what most mechanics will probably tell you.

So you're still getting problems after the coil and plug swap? Did you clear the code?

Consider inspecting all the plugs since it's easy enough. Take pictures and post them.

I would clear the codes, run car till you get code, then swap one thing at a time so you know what's going on.

Take advantage of the warranty if you can and take my advice with a grain of salt since I'm far from an expert.

 

the only damage to the plug was a slight burn ring where the ceramic meets the metal base that threads in. I realize there is probably a technical term for that but heck if I know.
she is supposed to drive it 300 miles today so We will see on how it does.

as for the burning of the oil its burning at least 3-4 quarts in a 3 thousand mile cycle. and to my knowledge it never did that with the old engine. that cant be normal burn can it?