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Gathering Interest Speed Freaks USA: OS Giken discussion thread

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Old 08-14-15, 02:19 PM
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lobuxracer
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I forgot to mention one important thing - as others have said, replacing the OEM spool with the OS Giken did not change the gear tooth pattern or the backlash. Mine was right in the middle of the spec at 0.004", and the tooth engagement was racer perfect - slightly biased toward the toe end. I could not have been happier we did not need to order snap rings or pinion washers and replace parts until it was good.
Old 08-14-15, 03:11 PM
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lorenr
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Question Spool Shims

Were you just lucky (tooth pattern) or is this typical for removing and re-installing the ring gear assembly?

Seems to me that ring gear contact should change and that the spool (carrier)should at least need to be moved one way or the other. How many others have gotten lucky doing this change?

This process has completely changed my mind about 08 & 09 IS F's.

Tell us more about Figs Differential bushings? I've suspected that most IRS systems could really benefit from these.

Loren
Old 08-14-15, 03:35 PM
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So far, everyone who has done this has said they did not need to move the spool. I am always skeptical because I'm a difficult customer, but I saw it with my own eyes when my dad set it up. He's been working on cars longer than I've been alive and has built some formidable circle track cars, so I don't doubt his abilities.

The Figs bushings are worth the effort. Getting the old units out of the front ears is a PITA because the only practical way is using an air chisel and pushing the bushing in on itself. The diff case doesn't lend itself well to fitting in a typical press, so the air chisel makes it possible to remove the old bushings. Notice I did not say easily. Nothing about the task is easy, but it is all doable.

I've never driven any Toyota that didn't suffer from wheel hop until I drove my F with Figs bushings in it. Now I want to do my Supra too.

Last edited by lobuxracer; 08-14-15 at 03:50 PM.
Old 08-14-15, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by lorenr
Were you just lucky (tooth pattern) or is this typical for removing and re-installing the ring gear assembly?

Seems to me that ring gear contact should change and that the spool (carrier)should at least need to be moved one way or the other. How many others have gotten lucky doing this change?

This process has completely changed my mind about 08 & 09 IS F's.

Tell us more about Figs Differential bushings? I've suspected that most IRS systems could really benefit from these.

Loren
I haven't installed mine yet in my IS-F, but I have the OSG Super Lock LSD in two of my Supras and, based upon that, I can say lobuxracer's experience was not luck. No shims were required in either installation. I will stipulate that I am a huge OSG fan. I also have their clutches in two of my Supras. That said, I believe their LSDs are the finest available for public consumption.

Ken.
Old 08-15-15, 05:39 PM
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Is this the bushing kit you're referring to?
http://shopfigs.com/v1/index.php?rou...product_id=236
If this prevents wheel hop then there should be no reason not to do it before I install the OS Giken
Old 08-16-15, 12:07 AM
  #21  
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If you like removing the differential, then by all means, put in the bushings. I put in the ones you linked and the ones on the front as well. It will be difficult to remove the rear bushings without dropping the differential, and once you've done that, you might as well get busy with the spool swap. Getting the diff out, even following the instructions where you don't disassemble the suspension to remove the axles, is a lot of work. At an absolute minimum, the rear exhaust has to come down, the driveshaft has to be disconnected, some heat shields and bracing has to come off, and you would be wise to drain the unit before removing the axles as it will want to spill diff oil when you take them out if it moves around on the jack at all.

I would not do it that way. Too much effort to do it twice. And getting the rear bushings out of the subframe is no picnic either. Air chisel time again...
Old 08-16-15, 10:20 PM
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Just found it and saw the price reasonable so i would like you guys confirm that if this is exactly what you guys have from Speed Freaks for our F ?
Thanks !
http://shop.edoperformance.com/giken...o-p-18725.html
Old 08-17-15, 08:58 AM
  #23  
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No, that one is the HD, not the HC which is what all of us purchased. I would not bother with the HD for the IS-F, it's too much work getting the spool in and out to be unhappy with it. The price difference does not justify buying the cheaper unit.

Also, anyone wanting to do this themselves, take a look at this post:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ml#post4888847

The pictures will be immensely helpful in saving a great deal of effort. I noticed two approaches to the clearance problem, and it would seem it is possible to install the spool without any clearancing if you have a shaft you can install (from a Supra axle?) and hold the ring gear while you tighten the bolts. I would definitely be very meticulously marking the bolts to ensure they are all torqued to initial value, then stretched the 60 - 90 degrees the manual requires. But it sure saves a lot of grinding as you can see in the picture below the one with the guy assembling the spool in the housing. I didn't remove anywhere near as much metal as they did, but I did grind in the exact same spots.

Last edited by lobuxracer; 08-17-15 at 09:08 AM.
Old 08-19-15, 11:07 AM
  #24  
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Keep the comments coming!

I finally got my differential in my car and took it to one of my favorite local roads to gather some initial impressions. There is no official "break in" procedure but I wanted to do some figure 8s in a parking lot and then put some easier miles on it before really hammering it on a track or drift event but even driving at 60-70% I can feel a difference trailing the throttle into faster sweepers and powering out of low speed corners. This road has some very tight and technical corners, is very bumpy and often has gravel from crap falling down the side into the road. With the stock torsen I would get the inside tire to cut loose if I wasn't careful getting on the power through corners with big dips or bumps, now it it completely unaffected and will put the power down smoothly and evenly. I'm excited to put more miles on it and update my findings after truly testing it on the track next month

-Matt M.
Old 08-19-15, 11:13 AM
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There's a right turn uphill exit from my Starbucks. It used to **** me off every day because there is a bump at the top and it unloads the suspension. The car would hiccup and I would have to leave a lot of room for error with oncoming traffic, so pulling out was a pain.

Not anymore! The car just jets over the bump like it doesn't exist. Loving it every day.
Old 08-19-15, 02:02 PM
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I think they should add that to the marketing material - "Makes your daily Starbucks commute a little safer".
Old 08-19-15, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
No, that one is the HD, not the HC which is what all of us purchased. I would not bother with the HD for the IS-F, it's too much work getting the spool in and out to be unhappy with it. The price difference does not justify buying the cheaper unit.
To my understanding, when I began researching about OS Giken products two years ago, OS Giken USA will no longer sale the NEO (HD) units for vehicles using the differential in high performance applications. This is due to the lack of lock-up consistency/predicatability with the NEO clutch plates compared to the original super lock plates (HA) or the newer TCD plates (HC). If you view the OS Giken LSD application list, you'll see zero NEO (HD) models being offered: http://www.osgiken.net/products.php?product=lsd

Originally Posted by SpeedFreaksUSA
Keep the comments coming!

I finally got my differential in my car and took it to one of my favorite local roads to gather some initial impressions. There is no official "break in" procedure but I wanted to do some figure 8s in a parking lot and then put some easier miles on it before really hammering it on a track or drift event but even driving at 60-70% I can feel a difference trailing the throttle into faster sweepers and powering out of low speed corners.

-Matt M.
Though there is no break-in period and no figure 8s necessary with the TCD, are you following OS Giken's recommendation to swap out the initial differential fluid after the first 500-1000 miles? I used Mobil 1 Synthetic Gear Lube as the "break-in" gear oil for the first 500 miles and I noticed that the differential oil wasn't up to the task as there was minor chatter with the clutch plates. After I replaced the lesser quality Mobil 1 with the OS Giken 80w-250 gear oil, the TCD has been chatter free and performing flawlessly.
Old 08-20-15, 05:59 PM
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I put Lucas in mine for break in. Swapping it out this weekend and hoping a small (most people would never notice) whine goes away - it only happens on neutral throttle and I can make it start or stop with the throttle easily.
Old 08-24-15, 07:48 PM
  #29  
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The whine went away with the OS Giken oil, and chatter I had previously experienced on full lock u-turns under power is also gone. I could not be happier with this unit!
Old 08-25-15, 10:52 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer

As Figs doesn't say in his blog, installing the axles will require a brass drift and BFH to make them fully seat. AMHIK.

This is the perfect time to install the Figs/SuperPro differential bushings. In fact, I would say if you don't do this at the same time, you are missing half the good part. They eliminate (yes, I said ELIMINATE) wheel hop under acceleration. You will be amazed at the improvement in acceleration, but if you fail to install the bushings, you'll just invoke wheel hop and you'll say, "WTF was lobux talking about, my wheels are hardly in contact with the ground now?" With the diff out, you can't have a better circumstance for installing the polyurethane diff bushings. Just be sure you have an air chisel to get them out. Or a 20+ ton press. I think the chisel was easier.

If you install the axles with the snap ring sitting on top, they go right in. If they slip down to the bottom, then they will bind on the way in. use some gear oil to hold them on top and they will be flush in the groove and the splines will have no problem passing the retaining channels.



Just to be clear, you installed both the pinion mount and rear diff bushings. The prior link was only to the rear mount. Glad we got the parts to you in time despite the shipping hiccup.
Mike
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