BMW or Mercedes - 10K budget
#1
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Probably Switching over to BMW
Not happy with my RX lately, always has issues and not worth getting it fixed.
These are the three options:
'01 740
'01 530
'00 540
Which one should I get it?
Is maintenance that expensive?
Thanks,
These are the three options:
'01 740
'01 530
'00 540
Which one should I get it?
Is maintenance that expensive?
Thanks,
#2
Find yourself a competent and honest independent mechanic! BMW's are well engineered but pricey as they age. Brake job costs are legendary, while the 7-Series is known for cutting-edge electronics foibles. Both of the 5-series you specify are IIRC far enough in the build cycle to have few inherent bugs.
I owned a '00 M5 that was flawless throughout its tenure. Honestly, the '00 540 would have been more than sufficient were I to choose again.
Choose carefully and enjoy whatever you select!!
I owned a '00 M5 that was flawless throughout its tenure. Honestly, the '00 540 would have been more than sufficient were I to choose again.
Choose carefully and enjoy whatever you select!!
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What's the differences between the 530 and the 540? Is it worth getting the 530 because it's one year younger?
Just for reference, what does a typical oil change cost at a dealer at a dealer or a motor works?
Just for reference, what does a typical oil change cost at a dealer at a dealer or a motor works?
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BMW or Mercedes - 10K budget
I already have a GX, going to get rid of my 99 RX hopefully get at least 2K for it.
I've looked at some BMW's but are the Mercedes from 2000 to 2003 any good? I've heard so many bad things about Mercedes in general.
If I were to get a Mercedes, which model should I look for and which model(s) should I stay away from?
I've looked at some BMW's but are the Mercedes from 2000 to 2003 any good? I've heard so many bad things about Mercedes in general.
If I were to get a Mercedes, which model should I look for and which model(s) should I stay away from?
#6
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#7
Stay away from Mercedes IMO if you want something newer for $10,000. That puts you in the late 90's/early 2000's, their quality was garbage IMO during that time period.
BMW, the E46 3 series is a great car for the $$$$$. For $10,000 you should be able to find a NICE, maintained example. Just make sure it hasn't overheated and expect to replace the water pump, radiator, and some supsension bushings and possibly shocks if its got over 80,000 miles on it. The E39 5 series is also a great buy if you stick with the six cylinder version. Similar problems as the 3 series, if you buy the v8 there is a whole nother page of stuff that could go wrong with it. The Z3 roadster is also a great buy right now.
BMW, the E46 3 series is a great car for the $$$$$. For $10,000 you should be able to find a NICE, maintained example. Just make sure it hasn't overheated and expect to replace the water pump, radiator, and some supsension bushings and possibly shocks if its got over 80,000 miles on it. The E39 5 series is also a great buy if you stick with the six cylinder version. Similar problems as the 3 series, if you buy the v8 there is a whole nother page of stuff that could go wrong with it. The Z3 roadster is also a great buy right now.
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#8
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I had a 2003 Mercedes E320.... No issues till a lil after 100k and then it was one visit to the shop after another. Sold it quick!
Loved the car and the experience... But when they start to go u better have several thousand ready. If that is ur budget i honestly wouldn't buy either makes but thats me. If u want details on issues i had feel free to pm me.
Loved the car and the experience... But when they start to go u better have several thousand ready. If that is ur budget i honestly wouldn't buy either makes but thats me. If u want details on issues i had feel free to pm me.
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I had the same experience with my e320 now close to 100k miles. I have been to the shop two time for major repair last year. Brake, steerling wheel. Problems after problem. Just pick up a 2013 RX 350 f sport two days ago. Hope it will be a reliable car. Cross finger
#14
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530 will have less power from the absolutely bulletproof 3.0L straight six. 540 will make more power from the generally reliable 4.4L V8, but be aware of the valley pan gaskets, which fail frequently (as far as gaskets go), and require the removal of the intake manifold. 740i will have the same motor, same issue.
So it depends on your priorities. If you want a DD with a decent amount of power where the engine will literally run forever get the 530. If you're power-mad, get the 540. Me? I'd go for the one that has 3 pedals, no matter what engine's under the hood.
Oil change in my old 323i was around $90 at the dealer the last time I did it (which granted, was in like 2001). It cost me about $70 to do it myself (Amsoil @$8/quart x 7 quarts + $10 filter), so I'd probably pay a dealer up to $100 to do it if I were so inclined. Also note that oil changes are infrequent, at around 15k miles, so the cost isn't a big deal even if it is higher than that--but it's REALLY easy so you should just do it yourself. Hell if you get an oil extractor you don't even have to get dirty or jack the car up, because the filter's on top.
Likewise for brake jobs. They're not hard, and don't cost a ton if you do them yourself. I don't have my receipts anymore, but I think it cost me around $300 to do a full job (pads, rotors and sensors) at all 4 corners with better-than-stock parts (ATE discs, Hawk HPS pads). Requires a caliper compression tool, which can be "rented" for free at AutoZone, but they're relatively cheap so I bought my own.
So it depends on your priorities. If you want a DD with a decent amount of power where the engine will literally run forever get the 530. If you're power-mad, get the 540. Me? I'd go for the one that has 3 pedals, no matter what engine's under the hood.
Oil change in my old 323i was around $90 at the dealer the last time I did it (which granted, was in like 2001). It cost me about $70 to do it myself (Amsoil @$8/quart x 7 quarts + $10 filter), so I'd probably pay a dealer up to $100 to do it if I were so inclined. Also note that oil changes are infrequent, at around 15k miles, so the cost isn't a big deal even if it is higher than that--but it's REALLY easy so you should just do it yourself. Hell if you get an oil extractor you don't even have to get dirty or jack the car up, because the filter's on top.
Likewise for brake jobs. They're not hard, and don't cost a ton if you do them yourself. I don't have my receipts anymore, but I think it cost me around $300 to do a full job (pads, rotors and sensors) at all 4 corners with better-than-stock parts (ATE discs, Hawk HPS pads). Requires a caliper compression tool, which can be "rented" for free at AutoZone, but they're relatively cheap so I bought my own.
Last edited by geko29; 02-24-13 at 03:54 AM.