Haters gonna hate.
08-08-09, 06:09 PM
#16
Lexus Fanatic
As a new poster, welcome to CL and CAR CHAT. 
People aren't going to dislike you on this forum for driving a non-Lexus....the CAR CHAT forum is for talk about anything on four wheels (and sometimes two). Heck, we got moderators here who have non-Lexus and non-Toyota products. I do myself.
Nice GTI......but if you drive around with it sitting that low, don't you have to be very careful about potholes, ramps, and humps?
People aren't going to dislike you on this forum for driving a non-Lexus....the CAR CHAT forum is for talk about anything on four wheels (and sometimes two). Heck, we got moderators here who have non-Lexus and non-Toyota products. I do myself.Nice GTI......but if you drive around with it sitting that low, don't you have to be very careful about potholes, ramps, and humps?
Last edited by mmarshall; 08-08-09 at 06:12 PM.
08-08-09, 06:47 PM
#17
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Thanks!
No problem. I understand the resale value things. I plan on keeping the GTI until it leaves me stranded on the side of the road 
However, multi-piece wheels such as these RS's, actually gain value the more work you put into them. The market determines the value and people who are really into wheels knows how much hard work (and money) you have to put into them to have them come out really unique and custom to the owners' tastes.
Thanks guys! The hater thing was just a joke really. In the world of VW's, people hate on cars with BBS RS's (such as myself) and call them "played." It's funny, though, 99% of the people who "hate" on them have never built or owned a set of custom [multi-piece] wheels 
I like it here already. People are appreciative of hard work.
Also, yes, I do have to be very careful. When I get into a GS, it will be driven almost at parked height.
I just finished putting them back together. Now for tires!
Thanks for answering my question, much appreciated.
The look is great, IMO. I usually view staggered as jiving with where the power is put down (rear wheels for RWD). But I've seen many AWD SUV's and cars that I like with staggered setups
In the world of mod cars, (which many dabble in here too), we generally expect no increase in resale value as a result of mods, and usually expect it to hurt value. In fact many of us are prepared to return our cars back to a complete stock setup when time comes to sell.
The look is great, IMO. I usually view staggered as jiving with where the power is put down (rear wheels for RWD). But I've seen many AWD SUV's and cars that I like with staggered setups
In the world of mod cars, (which many dabble in here too), we generally expect no increase in resale value as a result of mods, and usually expect it to hurt value. In fact many of us are prepared to return our cars back to a complete stock setup when time comes to sell.
However, multi-piece wheels such as these RS's, actually gain value the more work you put into them. The market determines the value and people who are really into wheels knows how much hard work (and money) you have to put into them to have them come out really unique and custom to the owners' tastes.
As a new poster, welcome to CL and CAR CHAT. People aren't going to dislike you on this forum for driving a non-Lexus....the CAR CHAT forum is for talk about anything on four wheels (and sometimes two). Heck, we got moderators here who have non-Lexus and non-Toyota products. I do myself.
Nice GTI......but if you drive around with it sitting that low, don't you have to be very careful about potholes, ramps, and humps?
People aren't going to dislike you on this forum for driving a non-Lexus....the CAR CHAT forum is for talk about anything on four wheels (and sometimes two). Heck, we got moderators here who have non-Lexus and non-Toyota products. I do myself.Nice GTI......but if you drive around with it sitting that low, don't you have to be very careful about potholes, ramps, and humps?
I like it here already. People are appreciative of hard work.
Also, yes, I do have to be very careful. When I get into a GS, it will be driven almost at parked height.
I just finished putting them back together. Now for tires!
08-08-09, 08:18 PM
#18
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
nice car c4lvin.
except acura
not sure i follow, i thought the rims are on the car? 
and the one on the right looks like it has a dent in the barrel?
I just finished putting them back together. Now for tires!
and the one on the right looks like it has a dent in the barrel?
08-08-09, 08:21 PM
#19
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Nope, they are the same wheels as I pictured, but those are from when I rebuilt them the 2nd time to 8.5/9.5. Now I pulled the wheels off again and built them to 9/10.5.
No dent, just me going crazy with a wire wheel to get off some random silicone that dripped and dried there.
08-08-09, 09:12 PM
#20
Driver
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: IL
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Man, this had me laughing so hard. Now it's time for the Chapelle remix
.How can you hate on that??? That VW is looking clean
, very nice stance by the way.
08-08-09, 09:56 PM
#22
Lexus Fanatic
iTrader: (20)
Nope, they are the same wheels as I pictured, but those are from when I rebuilt them the 2nd time to 8.5/9.5. Now I pulled the wheels off again and built them to 9/10.5.
No dent, just me going crazy with a wire wheel to get off some random silicone that dripped and dried there.
No dent, just me going crazy with a wire wheel to get off some random silicone that dripped and dried there.
08-08-09, 11:16 PM
#24
Lexus Fanatic
However, multi-piece wheels such as these RS's, actually gain value the more work you put into them. The market determines the value and people who are really into wheels knows how much hard work (and money) you have to put into them to have them come out really unique and custom to the owners' tastes.
08-09-09, 02:33 AM
#25
I think what he's asking is, "Did you widen the wheels yourself at home? " Are the the old school BBS mesh wheels made of steel or aluminum alloy? I can understand having the face bolted onto new wider barrels. Is that what you did? Or from the pictures and based on how the face and outer barrel are tilted (the bottom left wheel in the photo), it appears you actually cut the wheel splitting it in two. What is the black line in the center of the wheels? Are you widening them them by adding .5" in front and 1" in the back, then welding them back together? If these are not steel wheels, I've heard that widening aluminum alloy wheels by cutting and welding can cause potential dangers later while driving, mainly because of the warping that occurs during the welding process. Although very good welders can get it almost perfectly lined, the warping is difficult to avoid and almost undetectable to the naked eye. On something like car wheels, even being a few millimeters off can cause some very bad vibrations and even more catastrophic results. I hope this is not your situation.
My post is not to "hate," but I'm just concerned for your safety and the safety of other motorists. If this is not the case, then you don't have to worry. Other than that, welcome to CL and your GTI is already looking proper with the old setup and stance.
" Are the the old school BBS mesh wheels made of steel or aluminum alloy? I can understand having the face bolted onto new wider barrels. Is that what you did? Or from the pictures and based on how the face and outer barrel are tilted (the bottom left wheel in the photo), it appears you actually cut the wheel splitting it in two. What is the black line in the center of the wheels? Are you widening them them by adding .5" in front and 1" in the back, then welding them back together? If these are not steel wheels, I've heard that widening aluminum alloy wheels by cutting and welding can cause potential dangers later while driving, mainly because of the warping that occurs during the welding process. Although very good welders can get it almost perfectly lined, the warping is difficult to avoid and almost undetectable to the naked eye. On something like car wheels, even being a few millimeters off can cause some very bad vibrations and even more catastrophic results. I hope this is not your situation.My post is not to "hate," but I'm just concerned for your safety and the safety of other motorists. If this is not the case, then you don't have to worry. Other than that, welcome to CL and your GTI is already looking proper with the old setup and stance.
08-09-09, 09:33 AM
#26
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I think what he's asking is, "Did you widen the wheels yourself at home? " Are the the old school BBS mesh wheels made of steel or aluminum alloy? I can understand having the face bolted onto new wider barrels. Is that what you did? Or from the pictures and based on how the face and outer barrel are tilted (the bottom left wheel in the photo), it appears you actually cut the wheel splitting it in two. What is the black line in the center of the wheels? Are you widening them them by adding .5" in front and 1" in the back, then welding them back together? If these are not steel wheels, I've heard that widening aluminum alloy wheels by cutting and welding can cause potential dangers later while driving, mainly because of the warping that occurs during the welding process. Although very good welders can get it almost perfectly lined, the warping is difficult to avoid and almost undetectable to the naked eye. On something like car wheels, even being a few millimeters off can cause some very bad vibrations and even more catastrophic results. I hope this is not your situation.
My post is not to "hate," but I'm just concerned for your safety and the safety of other motorists. If this is not the case, then you don't have to worry. Other than that, welcome to CL and your GTI is already looking proper with the old setup and stance.
" Are the the old school BBS mesh wheels made of steel or aluminum alloy? I can understand having the face bolted onto new wider barrels. Is that what you did? Or from the pictures and based on how the face and outer barrel are tilted (the bottom left wheel in the photo), it appears you actually cut the wheel splitting it in two. What is the black line in the center of the wheels? Are you widening them them by adding .5" in front and 1" in the back, then welding them back together? If these are not steel wheels, I've heard that widening aluminum alloy wheels by cutting and welding can cause potential dangers later while driving, mainly because of the warping that occurs during the welding process. Although very good welders can get it almost perfectly lined, the warping is difficult to avoid and almost undetectable to the naked eye. On something like car wheels, even being a few millimeters off can cause some very bad vibrations and even more catastrophic results. I hope this is not your situation.My post is not to "hate," but I'm just concerned for your safety and the safety of other motorists. If this is not the case, then you don't have to worry. Other than that, welcome to CL and your GTI is already looking proper with the old setup and stance.
Here's a picture to show what it looks like when the wheels are apart (not my exact set, but they are RS's nonetheless):
You can see the sealant here (again, not my set, just an example):
Here is a comprehensive guide I've written to show how changing up the parts effects the specs of the wheels:
Before we start, please use Roan's (zeroluxxx) DIY Guide on measuring wheel parts so you get the correct calculation to start out with: [ http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3773369 ]
Maybe this could help some people as I know it can get confusing. Let's start with my wheels as an example:
Fronts:
BBS RS320
17x8 ET43 (7" barrel + .5" center + .5" lip)
Rears:
BBS RS300
17x9 ET53 (7.5" barrel + .5" center + 1" lip)
Adding the center's thickness into the equation only works if your wheels are sandwich mount (lip, face, barrel).
I moved the 1" drop lips from the rear to the front, resulting in:
17x8.5 ET37 (7" barrel + .5" center + 1" lip)
Now how did I get the final offset? Using [ http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp ]. I input the stock set up (8 ET43) and input the new width (8.5) and got to ET37 to maintain the same inner position because you aren't changing anything except the outer position.
I have noticed for every .5" you go out (pattern), while maintaining the same inner position/clearance, you will lower your offset by ~6mm (6.35mm to be exact (25.4 / 4 = 6.35). I have also noticed the outer position will go out 12mm (using the calculator, it gives you 12mm) (12.7 to be exact; 25.4 / 2 = 12.7)).
Then I got 1.5" lips to replace on the rears resulting in:
17x9.5 ET47 (7.5" barrel + .5" center + 1.5" lip)
Now what about if I changed the barrels up? You'd see the same pattern, but the outer position stays the same, whilst the inner position goes in or out (depending if you get smaller or larger barrels, of course).
Let's use my stock fronts for example (17x8 ET43 with a 7" barrel):
I'll put a 6.5" barrel on it, resulting in: 17x7.5 ET37 (6.5" barrel + .5" center + .5" lip). Notice the pattern again; .5" on that inner position results in 6mm lower offset (again, technically 6.35mm, easier to round down). Same thing with the inner position, it would gain 12mm (12.7 to be exact).
Well, what if I do both [smaller barrels and bigger lips]? You basically use the same formula/input the same things, but one at a time.
For example, lets use the stock fronts again but put .5" smaller barrels and a 1.5" lip on it.
Stock we know is 17x8 ET43 (7" barrel, .5" center + .5" = 8")
.5" smaller barrels we know results in 17x7.5 ET37 (6.5" + .5" + .5" = 7.5)
Now lets add that 1.5" lip to the equation: 6.5 + .5 + 1.5 = 8.5"
Final specs would be: 17x8.5 ET24 (which would gain 12mm inner clearance and outer position would "poke" 26mm more than stock lips).
Hope this helps
Last edited by c4lvin; 08-09-09 at 09:45 AM.
08-09-09, 02:34 PM
#29
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Thanks. I get that a lot.
08-09-09, 03:04 PM
#30
Lexus Fanatic
Oh, okay. Well the wheels are 3-piece wheels which the face (center), inner barrel, and outer lip all separate apart. You can widen/narrow the overall width by just buying different size barrels and/or lips. The black "line" is the silicone sealant you have to put inbetween the joints (where the face, barrel and lip) meet each other to keep the air in. (All 3 piece wheels have that, may be a diff color, but they are all sealed). The "tilt" is because of the size of the face (13.4") vs the the wheel is a 17" wheel so it needs to taper off so it can be the correct size to bolt to the face. The way I did it was just buy wider lips. They went from stock 8/9 set up (.5", 1" lips) to 8.5/9.5 by my getting 1.5" lips for the rear and moving the stock 1" rears to the front. Now they are 9/10.5 because I took the 1.5" rears and moved them to the front and got 2.5" for the rear.
Here's a picture to show what it looks like when the wheels are apart (not my exact set, but they are RS's nonetheless):
You can see the sealant here (again, not my set, just an example):
Here is a comprehensive guide I've written to show how changing up the parts effects the specs of the wheels:
Before we start, please use Roan's (zeroluxxx) DIY Guide on measuring wheel parts so you get the correct calculation to start out with: [ http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3773369 ]
Maybe this could help some people as I know it can get confusing. Let's start with my wheels as an example:
Fronts:
BBS RS320
17x8 ET43 (7" barrel + .5" center + .5" lip)
Rears:
BBS RS300
17x9 ET53 (7.5" barrel + .5" center + 1" lip)
Adding the center's thickness into the equation only works if your wheels are sandwich mount (lip, face, barrel).
I moved the 1" drop lips from the rear to the front, resulting in:
17x8.5 ET37 (7" barrel + .5" center + 1" lip)
Now how did I get the final offset? Using [ http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp ]. I input the stock set up (8 ET43) and input the new width (8.5) and got to ET37 to maintain the same inner position because you aren't changing anything except the outer position.
I have noticed for every .5" you go out (pattern), while maintaining the same inner position/clearance, you will lower your offset by ~6mm (6.35mm to be exact (25.4 / 4 = 6.35). I have also noticed the outer position will go out 12mm (using the calculator, it gives you 12mm) (12.7 to be exact; 25.4 / 2 = 12.7)).
Then I got 1.5" lips to replace on the rears resulting in:
17x9.5 ET47 (7.5" barrel + .5" center + 1.5" lip)
Now what about if I changed the barrels up? You'd see the same pattern, but the outer position stays the same, whilst the inner position goes in or out (depending if you get smaller or larger barrels, of course).
Let's use my stock fronts for example (17x8 ET43 with a 7" barrel):
I'll put a 6.5" barrel on it, resulting in: 17x7.5 ET37 (6.5" barrel + .5" center + .5" lip). Notice the pattern again; .5" on that inner position results in 6mm lower offset (again, technically 6.35mm, easier to round down). Same thing with the inner position, it would gain 12mm (12.7 to be exact).
Well, what if I do both [smaller barrels and bigger lips]? You basically use the same formula/input the same things, but one at a time.
For example, lets use the stock fronts again but put .5" smaller barrels and a 1.5" lip on it.
Stock we know is 17x8 ET43 (7" barrel, .5" center + .5" = 8")
.5" smaller barrels we know results in 17x7.5 ET37 (6.5" + .5" + .5" = 7.5)
Now lets add that 1.5" lip to the equation: 6.5 + .5 + 1.5 = 8.5"
Final specs would be: 17x8.5 ET24 (which would gain 12mm inner clearance and outer position would "poke" 26mm more than stock lips).
Hope this helps
Here's a picture to show what it looks like when the wheels are apart (not my exact set, but they are RS's nonetheless):
You can see the sealant here (again, not my set, just an example):
Here is a comprehensive guide I've written to show how changing up the parts effects the specs of the wheels:
Before we start, please use Roan's (zeroluxxx) DIY Guide on measuring wheel parts so you get the correct calculation to start out with: [ http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3773369 ]
Maybe this could help some people as I know it can get confusing. Let's start with my wheels as an example:
Fronts:
BBS RS320
17x8 ET43 (7" barrel + .5" center + .5" lip)
Rears:
BBS RS300
17x9 ET53 (7.5" barrel + .5" center + 1" lip)
Adding the center's thickness into the equation only works if your wheels are sandwich mount (lip, face, barrel).
I moved the 1" drop lips from the rear to the front, resulting in:
17x8.5 ET37 (7" barrel + .5" center + 1" lip)
Now how did I get the final offset? Using [ http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp ]. I input the stock set up (8 ET43) and input the new width (8.5) and got to ET37 to maintain the same inner position because you aren't changing anything except the outer position.
I have noticed for every .5" you go out (pattern), while maintaining the same inner position/clearance, you will lower your offset by ~6mm (6.35mm to be exact (25.4 / 4 = 6.35). I have also noticed the outer position will go out 12mm (using the calculator, it gives you 12mm) (12.7 to be exact; 25.4 / 2 = 12.7)).
Then I got 1.5" lips to replace on the rears resulting in:
17x9.5 ET47 (7.5" barrel + .5" center + 1.5" lip)
Now what about if I changed the barrels up? You'd see the same pattern, but the outer position stays the same, whilst the inner position goes in or out (depending if you get smaller or larger barrels, of course).
Let's use my stock fronts for example (17x8 ET43 with a 7" barrel):
I'll put a 6.5" barrel on it, resulting in: 17x7.5 ET37 (6.5" barrel + .5" center + .5" lip). Notice the pattern again; .5" on that inner position results in 6mm lower offset (again, technically 6.35mm, easier to round down). Same thing with the inner position, it would gain 12mm (12.7 to be exact).
Well, what if I do both [smaller barrels and bigger lips]? You basically use the same formula/input the same things, but one at a time.
For example, lets use the stock fronts again but put .5" smaller barrels and a 1.5" lip on it.
Stock we know is 17x8 ET43 (7" barrel, .5" center + .5" = 8")
.5" smaller barrels we know results in 17x7.5 ET37 (6.5" + .5" + .5" = 7.5)
Now lets add that 1.5" lip to the equation: 6.5 + .5 + 1.5 = 8.5"
Final specs would be: 17x8.5 ET24 (which would gain 12mm inner clearance and outer position would "poke" 26mm more than stock lips).
Hope this helps
damn man I guess I know who to PM if I ever have issues with 3 piece wheels