Not really part of the build, but I did order the GS F remote wallet card from Bell Lexus.

This is the only one that apparently works with the GS F (part number below). Getting it programmed next week.

 

Installed the A’PEXi midpipe yesterday. Sounds great, even with the stock axleback still installed. Can’t wait to finish the exhaust when the axleback portion comes in from Japan.

Thanks again to Josh @ Meraki!

 

Finally got the axleback portion (thanks to Josh @ Meraki) and had it installed today. Very happy with the loudness and the rumble! Video clips do NOT do this cat back exhaust any justice!

 

NICE!!!!!

-Josh

 

Installed the TOMs Front Upper Performance Rod Strut Bar. Easy install and no compatibility issues with AVS or relocated solenoid/horn from the RR Racing Heat Shield.

Also, replaced the intake’s stainless t-clamps with some Sure Motorsports Stealth worm gear clamps.




Next up will be the TOMs Front Cross-Member Brace and FIGs LCA bushings.

Thanks again to Josh @ Meraki!

 

If my wife found out the amount of money I dropped with Josh to buy parts, I’d likely be joining you. 😬 Check out the Arctic Knight build thread.

 

Yeah, been having to piece meal it to keep married 😬 Your build is looking sweet!

 

Installed the FIGs Front Lower Arm Rear Mount (#2 Polyurethane Bushing 90 duro in bracket) on the Orca.

While we were under there, threw on the TOMs Front Suspension Member Reinforcement Brace. Thanks to Josh @ Meraki for the fast turnaround on my impulse brace buy!

The car’s steering feels tight with both front braces. With the LCA, no noticeable increase in NVH or degradation in ride quality. This is what the car should’ve felt like from the factory.

 

Awesome feedback - I am about to pull the trigger on the Toms braces and the FIGS bushing. Thanks.

 

Let us know if we can help you with those Tom Braces.

-Josh

 

Did you install the FIGS bushings yourself ? I'm curious how difficult this would be in one's own garage without a lift.

I've watched install videos online and it looks pretty straight forward. My main question is do you do the final torque
with the wheels/car on the ground ? If so, it seems like it would be pretty difficult to get that much into it in such a tight space.

 

Installed them with the help of my friend with only a jack and a pair of jackstands in his house’s garage. Very easy to do; took about an hour and a half going slowly. Torqued everything while the car was on the stands.

One of the videos suggested bringing the car down onto wood blocks, but we couldn’t do that because we needed to remove the front tires since space was a premium on the stands. I did drive the car around and took it back today and double checked and re-torqued everything.

 

I've done this on my IS F. Won't be doing it to the GS F. It's the wife's car and needs to stay stock. That said, installing the rear LCA polybushings isn't hard at all. I had those on my IS F, then put the solid bushing mounts on. I like them a lot better, but the polyurethane really does get you 80% to good over OEM.

If you don't loosen the front bushing bolt(s), there's no reason to preload the suspension when you tighten the rear bushing. That only matters with rubber bushings. the center of the polyurethane bushing rotates freely, so it doesn't matter where the suspension is when you tighten it down. This is absolutely NOT TRUE if you lower the car on the OEM rubber bushings.

 

Had the chrome delete done using 3M 2080 Gloss Black to match the OEM pillars and mirrors which are gloss black on 2020s.

 

Looking good! That was a must on your car. I am still debating on if I am going to do this on mine.