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Hello Ladies and Gentlemen. I am making a return. And finally going all out on my GS (after so many failed attempts Haha. I’m giving it another shot and do it right this time.
I decided to sell the GS400 I had previously started this thread with. There were too many issues that required an excess of money that I didnt feel was necessary to spend. So I picked up a 99 GS300.
Following Issues
The AC was blowing hot but needed the owner reminded me that the car was sitting for a very long time. So I added some freon and the air blows cold...BUT...only on the passenger side. The air is cool on the driver side. As well as the air getting hot when I switch it from 65 to 66. I'm more than 100% sure its a servo motor since I get that buzzing noise when I turn the car on.
Clicking noise from the front of the car when the fans are activated or ac is turned on. Usually lasts for a a couple of seconds then goes away. I will get that checked.
Suspension needs to be redone and car raised for comfort.
Need to replace the lock cylinder and all the locks due to the owner accidentally breaking it while working on the car.
The Pros
The car runs lol..
There is a double din head unit installed.
Car is lowered on Godspeed 16 way coilovers.
Front lip was installed on the car.
Current Mods Exterior: Front Lip
Interior:
Suspension & Brakes: Godspeed Coilovers
Wheels & Tires:
Lighting: Cree 6000k Highs, Lows, 3000K Fog Lights
Drivetrain:
Electronics:
Audio: Pioneer D3 Headunit, Orion XTR Tweeters, 6.5” door panels
Really looking forward to this build. Will update soon.
Last edited by ReeM; 09-08-20 at 09:12 PM.
Reason: Change in vehicle and plans.
For the trunk latch I'd start by checking fuses. If they are good, use a helper and check for power and ground at the latch actuator when the lever is pulled.
The noise for a few seconds when you turn on the car/havc/a/c is more likely a mode or blend door actuator sticking than the blower motor itself. Are you talking about the thunking noise? Because usually a blower motor wont quiet down if it has come apart or is loose on its shaft etc.
As far as the lag, do you have an engine light or codes for the knock sensor(s)? Run a code scan and see whats there. I'd suspect a throttle issue more likely or possible misfires.
New starter. Car usually starts right up but sometimes it takes 1 or 2 tries. Just need it until I get my new motor. door speaker adaptors for my 6.5” speakers. Managed to get the classic Pioneer D3 from a guy who thought this could only fit in a w212. Got it for $114 Left all the wires. Door lock actuators. You always have that one door...
those knock sensors dont look oem. don't be surprised if you still get knock sensors codes once you install them. im not trying to give you a hard time. ive just seen many threads over the years about aftermarket knock sensors. and always, the person had to buy actual oem knock sensors to fix the problem. and the problem was fixed.
Thanks. I'm a paramedic (13 years). I work at a hospital and a private medical contractor. But I am currently transitioning to a nurse and then pursuing CRNA (Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist) school after I get the required ICU experience.
Damn son, I love your optimism. I hope its just a simple fix for all those codes. To have two transmission codes and have it be only the sensors that throw them would be a Godsend. Do you have any diagnostic experience are are you just going to throw sensors at all of these codes? Don't get me wrong, it would be amazing if that fixes them, but knowing for sure would be a good idea. In this case it might be worth a professional diag to know whats going on with all these systems.
06-27-19, 05:52 AM
Project GS: Built from the Ground Up V.2
