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Haven't fixed the idle issue as of yet, but I have done a few other things that I haven't posted here yet:
- Wrapped the header with titanium header wrap
- Had BOV Flange welded onto IC piping
This weekend I will be installing the following:
- Aluminum 2 row radiator
- Red silicone radiator hoses
- New thermostat
- New AC condensor
I might get to install the turbo also, if I can fix the idle issue...
When going single turbo, it is normally good to buy the shortened exhaust studs. Here are the Toyota part numbers for any who need them:
90116-10149 - Exhaust Manifold Stud
90080-17187 - Exhaust Manifold Lock Nut
What's up with the red line in the last pic? If you have connected a vacuum line directly from the intake to the ICAS (I think I got those letters right, never can remember) valve you need to reconsider that. Edit, I forgot you are turboing this car, may not be as important when boosted.
What's up with the red line in the last pic? If you have connected a vacuum line directly from the intake to the ICAS (I think I got those letters right, never can remember) valve you need to reconsider that. Edit, I forgot you are turboing this car, may not be as important when boosted.
Hey Rodger, so yeah, the GTE ECU apparently doesn’t control the vsv’s correctly, so that vacuum line is required to get the ACIS valve to operate correctly. This is why I’m running that vacuum line: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...ml#post8103815
looks like its coming along well, I found sometimes the throttle body set screw needs a little adjustment to let a little bit more air in at idle for the tt ecu mod or it can dip.
I think it has to do with the slightly larger throttle body on the gte and the small turbo's being more efficient.
try adjusting it but not too much cause that opens the throttle blade which moves the tps. the tps still needs to be in its "idl" range so you can set timing etc.. like described in the mod.
so after adjusting the throttle screw, you may need to turn the tps back the same amount. there is a little adjustment but not a huge amount, but it should be enough to fix the issue.
So I adjusted the idle set screw, but the car turned off on me. I’m going to have to take a closer look at my throttle body to figure this out. It is irritating, but it does’t worry me much since the car starts right back up as if nothing happened.
Yesterday I finished the upgrade of the cooling system. Installed the following components:
- Thermostat and O-ring
- Coolant bypass elbow o-ring
- Silicone hoses
- Radiator (2-row aluminum)
- Radiator fan (old one was cracked in several places)
- Radiator fan shroud (Supra)
- A/C Condenser
Coming along very nicely sir! Who are you going through for the turbo kit?
Myself
Getting to this point was was extremely frustrating. The exhaust bolts weren’t bolts anymore, they were more like rust blobs which needed to be cut off. Once the bolts were removed (cut off). I found that the MKIV mid-pipe is about 2.5” too long. I’ll be remedying that tonight.
Installed the manifold with the wastegate dump port pointing directly at the motor mount. The screw and bolt for the WG clamp are in the worse possible position, so turning the wastegate was an hour long affair.
I ordered the CXRacing Intercooler kit because it was supposed to be plug and play with no cutting required. Some of it seems to deliver on that promise, but my install will require a bit of reworking of the pipe routing. Hoping to have that done tonight also.
The oil line and fittings that I ran a few weeks ago were perfect. I will be starting the car up tonight.
Meaning that you're piecing it together or that you've done the manifold fab work, etc?
Looks killer, can't wait to hear it on the road!
OH! So I pieced the kit together myself. I used the following:
- CX Racing 11ga stainless manifold
- CX Racing Intercooler kit
- PTE 6176 Turbo
- Tial MVR Wastegate
- Wyntomnspeed BOV (American Tial knockoff)
- Grimmspeed Manual Boost Controller
CX Racing advertises that their Intercooler Kit is a no cut, no grind kit, but that isn't true for all cars. Maybe some cars include the hole that I'm about to show you all, but it does require that a hole be drilled beneath where the air box used to sit.
Instruction manual for CX Racing turbo/intercooler kit clearly shows this hole which is not present on my '92 SC300
The kit didn't include everything that I needed to make this work. I needed an additional 2.5" 45 degree coupler and a 3" 45 degree coupler. I also needed about 8" of tubing to go where the old MAF used to sit. Since I'm running the GTE mod, I no longer have a MAF in my engine bay.
Took it out for its first drives and it feels great... until it hits 5psi. Once I hit 5psi, it cuts out completely. Doesn’t matter what gear I’m in. AFR is between 11-12 when I hit 5psi. This has to be an ECU issue. I’m running the GTE ECU mod. Any thoughts?
So after having a friend ride with me to watch the boost gauge, we found that I am hitting 10 PSI which is where the WG spring is currently set at. So it seems like everything is working as it should. I just need to crank up the boost and drive it.
The turbo is definitely for the street... I am hitting 10PSI consistently at about about 4000 RPM. I'm gonna crank it up to about 18 and it should run better. Today I got the elbow pipe extended and had the IAT bung welded into it. That should improve the performance also and also clean up the bay a bit. If I like the way the turbo performs at 18PSI, then I'll have the 90 degree elbow welded to the compressor housing. Otherwise, I'll be shopping for a 6266 or something similar to install.
Found a tuner who will do AEM dyno tune here locally for a good price. Once I get everything setup on the GTE ECU, I'll take it to him so that I can run larger injectors without the SAFC screwing with my timing.
Little before and after getting the elbow extended and the bung welded in. It really cleans up the look of the engine bay:
Shortly after getting the car boosting, the rear water pipe gave up on me. Sprayed coolant all over the back of the engine and the exhaust and the car over heated. I pulled over immediately and called a tow truck. $75 and 4 days later, I had a new pipe.
Instead of using the original clamp on the back of the head, I opted for a worm clamp for ease of removal. No more leaks!
Haven't been on here much because I have been a bit frustrated with the build... Here is the latest:
Went to get everything tuned... Installed a Haltech Elite 2000 and had it on the dyno... Numbers were lack luster at best:
This was at a whopping 17 PSI... I did a compression test and the numbers when cold and dry were as follows:
1 - 160
2 - 170
3 - 170
4 - 150
5 - 160
6 - 170
My injectors were running at about 80% duty cycle on that last run so I'm sure that i'm pretty sure that I have a fuel issue... Going to add a fuel pump relay and replace the fuel filter, hopefully that will fix that issue.
Got an email yesterday from the shop saying that there was an issue with the load cell on the dyno and so the numbers are probably way off, they offered to re-tune the car for free. Great.
Problem is that while I was driving the car home, it started to make a terrible noise. Had it towed back to the shop and they say that it seems to be in the valve train and not the bottom end. What do you all think?
Popped the valve covers off, but didn't see anything of note. Going to have to take the camshafts out to really be able to tell if it is a valve spring/lifter issue. But to me, it definitely doesn't sound like a spun rod bearing.. Let me know what you all think please!!!!
One good thing to report... I switched the registration to Historic and so now I don't have to conform to any emissions/noise regulations from here on!
I'm thinking about upgrading the turbo to a BW S364. Is anyone running a S300 series with the stock intake setup? From what I'm seeing, mostly everyone is running a FFIM with the BW...
I'd rather keep the stock intake for now since that's a lot of additional money to be spent to get that configured right. I'm thinking I'll need:
- FFIM
- 14mm Injectors
- New Fuel connections and FPR for new fuel rail
- Throttle cable
- IACV setup
- New Intercooler and piping
I see all this costing me at least $2500 in parts... It would make more sense to just buy a Precision 6266 at that point. I guess I just talked myself into buying a $1075 turbo
05-30-18, 07:49 AM
