You have really switched gears from show, to go. I approve!

 

nice man! My initial wheel I wanted was the konig hypergram but the highest offset they offered was +35

 

Lsd and figs diff mount/bushings, waiting on new bearings and seals. Decided I would have the diff refreshed with new parts while it’s out so it will hopefully last me longer. Will be going in soon.

 

Koyorad radiator and trans cooler from RR racing


OEM one started leaking

 

Enjoy the great products (and mediocre instructions) from RR.

Ends up being a great solution but kind of more of a pain than it should be to install IMO. Guess most of it is just due to the lack of space and (free) in depth information for how things go together.

 

there is some stuff that is missing from instructions but it seems pretty straight forward I guess we will see tomorrow when I go to install

 

Lol I thought the same thing... Though if you've done the oil cooler already you've got some experience with working in the area already.

Good luck!

 

We’re you having heat issues, or is this preventative?

 

my oem radiator gave out where the plastic joins the metal on top. Also, last summer I was not willing to go to the track On hot days now with the added oil/trans cooler and radiator I’m hoping it won’t effect the car as much.

 

Along with the radiator and transmission cooler install I converted the AOS push lock/ quick release to AN fittings. Mine personally kept leaking air causing a check engine light, lower mpg, and car running rich (I could tell from the pops and back fire on deceleration

 

I never did like the implementation of the AOS. Too many opportunities for failure with those fittings.

 

I wondered if you considered it legitimate. I have read a lot of garbage about them over the years.

 

I highly recommend it, with an fittings tho. I’m at the track now and no more CEL also it fills up after every session so it’s doing it’s job

 

I don't run a catch can. The factory put a very elaborate air/oil separator that puts the oil back on this engine. If you understand the gas laws, you'll figure out pretty quickly any catch can is a coalescent filter, so the fluid inside is going to be mostly water with a small amount of oil and whatever organic acids are formed by blowby from the rings. This is normally routed back through the intake to be burned as if it were fresh air, because if you don't have a coalescent filter, it's mostly water which is not only harmless, but also reduces octane requirements by absorbing heat in the combustion process. Ricardo did some quite famous experimentation with this in the 1940's for aviation engines because they wanted to be able to run cheaper and more available low octane fuels in military aircraft. Anyway, I don't have one and never have had the issues some guys complained about - clouds of blue smoke during track days - so I've never felt the need to put something in the intake path that could leak and cause a lean condition potentially causing limp mode if your lucky, and destroying an engine if you're not.