Do you have a picture or diagram you can provide? I'm more of a visual learner.

 

Looking forward to seeing it running!

 

Looking good in that bay! Can't wait to see it rolling!

 

Will get you a pic in the morning!

 

I hope you see this in time but no need for a pic. I remembered where I had put that vacuum hose after I had removed when I had to remove the intake manifold a few weeks ago. I really appreciate it though.

I hooked up the radiator, A/C, and intercooler last night. I also adjusted the aristo rod so that it is longer. The car would not start because it was either no longer in park or neutral. Gears still weren't shifting and the shifter was still locked. Something tells me I was supposed to do more than just swap the JDM terminator caps with the USDM caps.

The motor was still idling low. Im still suspecting low fuel pressure since it dies immediatly after I give it gas. Hopefully I can pick up an Aristo pump this weekend and hook it up.

 

Heres the tried and true method for the shifter.

Place the shifter in the car in park.

Go below dissconnect the rod from said shifter. Manually put the trans in park....i.e. make sure that the lever on the trans is all the way back.

Lenghten the rod to match this distance......voila!

If its still not starting make sure the connector on the trans is securely in place.

There should be nothing else needed other than the caps.......just did another one of these swaps last weekend.

 

I'll give the shifter rod another go again tonight. I might have gone in the wrong direction on this. While I'm down there I'll recheck the trans and ECU box for loose connectors.

 

Here is how the project currently stands. It starts but it barely holds and idle. Tomorrow I install the Aristo fuel pump assembly and tach wire. I had to do some last minute trimming of the IC piping to get it to clear the passenger headlight, windshield washer reservoir, and A/C compressor pulley. I just hope my front bumper fits. 3" piping is difficult to route if you want to keep everything.



I still have my shifter locked. I got underneath the car and adjusted the transmission's shifter rod in both directions. The picture above is in the park position so now I am able to start the car with the gear selector in "P".




Here is what my ECU box currently looks like. I rechecked to make sure all connectors are in tight and they are. The terminator caps in the picture are the ones I brought over from my 2JZGE motor. They are on tight so I don't understand why I'm still in shift lock.



This is what my guage cluster looks like with the car ON and the engine running. Its even got the low oil level light. Also, when I shift gears from Park to Drive, I get a chime coming from the dash. When I shift into lower gears, it chimes again.

Also, my transmission has very little power. I filled it with Toyota type iV fluid. With the car jacked up entirely, the rear wheels hardly want to spin with the tranny in gear. At the moment, I am unable to accelerate the motor because then it will die.

Another issue I have is that nothing is going on with the throttle. I step on the gas about half way down before the motor dies with no increase of acceleration at all. All connections were double checked. The butterfly doesnt even open.

 

The picture of the rod shows the adjustment all the way forward (towards the front of the car)......it should be all the way back.

 

You said.... The terminator caps in the picture are the ones I brought over from my 2JZGE motor. The caps that you need to use are the ones that came with the GTE swap. If you dont use those the trans will be locked out.

 

I tested it in both positions. In the position in the picture, I am able to start the car with the selector in P. As for the terminator caps, the reason I had swapped them out was because it was recommended in countless threads. It would completely make sense as to why I am not getting power to the throttle motor and why my transmission is still locked. I picked up an Aristo fuel pump hanger today. I'll be installing it later on tonight and I'll swap over those terminator caps using the GTE caps, not the GE caps. If it unlocks the transmission then I'll play around with the positioning of the linkage.

When I was picking up the Aristo pump assembly at my JDM engine distributer's warehouse, he did mention to me that when swapping an Aristo motor into a GS300, you're supposed to modify 3 wires not just the single one for the tach. Can anyone provide more info on this if this is true?

 

That is totally not true. Ill bet you $100. Ive done countless of these swaps........

 

Also the reason it may be starting is because it looks like you have it adjusted for the neutral position on the trans. If you followed my earlier response it would be set correctly!

 

I put the JDM terminator caps back on. I started the car. It started up nicely on the first try. This time around I had noticed that the check engine light turned off along with the VSC light. My low oil level light is still on even after I had changed the oil. Another thing I noticed is that I no longer had my shifter locked and the gear positions were lit up on my cluster. I cycled through the gears just to make sure the shifter rod was in its correct position. Everything looked good. When I shift from D to 4, it skips in and automatically goes down to 3. I guess it makes sense since its a 4 speed.

Since all was good there, I decided to give it some throttle. It died. I go to restart the engine but I am unable to. It wouldn't even crank over. The starter relay works because I can hear it switching when I turn the key to start it but I get no starter engagement. I check all the fuses and they all look good. I bang the starter with a rod and still nothing. I check all power connections around the motor and to the starter, no start. I am at a standstill.




I picked up an Aristo fuel pump assembly and had a chance to install it tonight.

 

I had attempted to swap the starter but it was a no-go. I pulled the GTE starter off and tried to install the GE starter and then I noticed that only one hole was lining up. I pulled it back out and compared the two. Although very similar, the two starters are actually different. The bolt holes line up differently to clear the VSV tank under the intake manifold. I took the GTE starter down the street to my local auto parts store to have it tested and it came back OK. I am done for today. Tomorrow I will put the GTE starter back on and probably have the GTE starter relay tested. I am at a standstill.