VIP161 // S161 swap
Here is the bulk head fitting I will be using for the fuel return line. After getting a better understanding of how it works and where everything is, it really is a basic step. You just have to know what you’re looking for.
Here I have a bulkhead fitting with -6 on both ends. Attached to it is a -6 to -6 female adapter. Attached to that is a -6 male to 5/16” straight barb conversion. That will allow me to simply push lock a super long piece of rubber fuel line that will run from the top of the fuel hanger to the metal fuel return hard line coming out from the intake manifold in between runners 1 and 2. That’s it!
Here I have a bulkhead fitting with -6 on both ends. Attached to it is a -6 to -6 female adapter. Attached to that is a -6 male to 5/16” straight barb conversion. That will allow me to simply push lock a super long piece of rubber fuel line that will run from the top of the fuel hanger to the metal fuel return hard line coming out from the intake manifold in between runners 1 and 2. That’s it!
Supra TT Throttle Cable
Just taking care of some details as I get near the installation date. I ordered an MK4 Supra TT throttle cable for the Aristo swap. On one side you can see the original cable sleeve that has been cut prior to transport. On the other side lies the Supra TT throttle cable I will use. The associated part number is 78180-1B090. I only list this information because I've read in the previous threads about confusion on this topic. You can purchase this from Driftmotion for about $80.
Oil Filter
For those who are looking to upgrade to a slightly bigger oil filter, Driftmotion offers a bigger Toyota OEM oil filter. Pictured on the right is a japanese brand OEM style filter. You can see the size difference compared to the bigger one on the right of it. The associated part number for this filter is on the Toyota oil filter red box. 90915-YZZD3 is the part number. About $10.
Aristo Exhaust Flange
I plan on having a downpipe fabricated in the mean time. I purchased a thick Aristo exhaust outlet flange to have piping welded to it. In the middle lies a graphite gasket for a perfect seal. The exhaust studs were either missing or stripped and had no nuts. Flange, gasket, studs, and nuts are from Driftmotion. Definitely a great idea for those looking to have their own downpipe made.
Rear turbo check
I removed the rear turbo intake inlet pipe to check for oil drips and shaft play. Other than the vapors, it was clean. I tried to wiggle the shaft a little and I can noticeably feel a tiny bit of play but nothing I would be concerned about. I think it was worth posting while the motor is out.
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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 78
Likes: 4
From: Washington
I'm not sure why my pictures are coming out weird but here is the green/black ignition wire. I pulled it out of a GS300. I traced it back from connector to connector and pulled it to use on the GTE igniter and connector. The Aristo igniter has a missing plug on the connector. Its actually got a little rubber blocker. You simply pop it out and replace it with one end of the green/black wire. The other end goes to the black connector by the ECU. You'll see the missing spot for it. Pretty easy. From what I understand, the purpose of this wire is to power the guage cluster and provide you with a functioning tach. I've been doing a ton of reading and research on this wire. If I understand this correctly, this is the only wire that needs to be added or modified when doing an Aristo GTE swap on a 98'/99' GS300 making the swap really straight forward.
So is this really all the wiring you have to do for the VVTI 2JZ to plug and play on an early model 2GS? Mine is an early 2000 model year, fabricated in 99. I can figure out pretty much all the other stuff but wiring is not my forte, took me like 3 hours to figure out a diagram to get my auto trans emulator to work haha. Do you have any pics of the plug next to the ecu that it goes to from the ignitor?
My other question is about the throttle cable, did it reach? I've had some issues with my SC300 and the non vvti 1J where this cable doesn't reach the bracket 100%
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,389
Likes: 56
From: North Carolina
The first connector with the black wire with the yellow trace is the one needed for the tach.
The cable that works the best is the 93-98 Supra TT cable. The 90's corolla and camry fit as well.
I haven't posted any updates lately since I've been busy with work and life. Originally, I was planning on elongating the holes on my original GS300 propeller shaft to line up with the holes on the Aristo trans output flange. In an effort to do less work and avoid cutting a corner, I picked up a complete Aristo auto driveshaft. It definitely is longer than the SC400 piece members were mentioning in various build threads.
I also measured, cut, and mocked my intercooler piping so that is ready to go. If all goes well, I do plan on swapping the motor in this weekend and will try to document the process as much as I can.
2jzgte swap complete!!
My Aristo swap is now complete. I got it all done in one day. I started at 5:30am and finished around 8pm, by myself. This is my second swap but this is the first one I've done completely on my own. I wish I could have taken a lot more pictures but I just wanted to be done. I had a chance to start it up today and it fired up first try. It is having a few issues. It idles on its own power but as soon as I give it gas and release, it dies. I am using the stock GS300 fuel hanger with a return line bulk head fitting attached to it. A piece of advice I will give to those who are looking to do this swap, save your self the headache and get the Aristo fuel hanger. Not only does it have the return line already on it but it does not have the factory fuel pressure regulator. I suspect that my fuel pressure is low because of that regulator. Also, the motor is in limp mode. When I give it gas, the needle bounces off of the limiter at about 3000 rpm. I'm hoping its related to the fuel pressure issue that will get resolved after I swap hangers this weekend. Also, my stock Aristo auto will not shift into any gear. I suspect the fluid is really low. It did leak some but I will be topping it off tomorrow. Another issue, the transmission is still locked. I swapped over the terminator caps from the USDM harness like everyone was recommending. I have no clue as to why the gear selector is still locked. I am able to shift using the shift lock release but that was not in the plans.
Stock Fuel Pressure Regulator - Fuel Return
As I was closing up my garage door, I did walk by and notice that the FPR on the return side of the rail is missing a vacuum line. That could be contributing to my current issues. Can anyone tell me where I would route a vacuum line from this regulator?
Yeah that was my next course of action. Im so tired from this project, I was planning on doing that this weekend. All the times that I had started it was without the intercooler. If that is contributing to the issue then I'll go ahead and put the AC components, radiator, and IC back into the GS and see how it goes. Thanks!
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 4,389
Likes: 56
From: North Carolina
Yes that is going to be a major part of the problem. The ECU checks the MAF and MAP sensors and controls the idle using that info. As far as the rod goes....loosen the 12mm nut on the adjuster by the shifter and send it all the way to the back (meaning make the aristo rod as long as possible). That will let you shift the trans properly! If you need any help sorting out the swap you can pm me. Ive done several of these swaps.