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Much better, the belt routing there should be good! With those small SC pulleys make sure you get as much belt wrap as possible. Ideally you'd want 60% or more of the SC pulley covered, you can achieve this by mounting the tensioner pushing inward as far as possible on the belt. You pretty much want the belt almost touching itself on the other side. There is alot of torque turning an SC and slippage is always a concern as it will effect boost levels and afr's.
Yes thank you so much again, really. It means a lot to me.
Those are exactly my thoughts. I want a very consistent boost PSI as well as AFRs for maximum safety and fun. The s/c tensioner will be fixed so that the pulley sits below the angle of the belt, like you say. When the belt is first put on, it will be somewhat tight, but swinging the tensioner arm up and back down when the belt is beneath it will create a good amount of tension and pulley wrap. It wont chatter either because of how strong it is.
I'll order various 8 ribs belt because it's impossible to measure them accurately and they are cheap.
I know your not there yet, but please make sure to address your positive crankcase ventilation system. you do not want positive boost pressure going into your crankcase and fuel tank. seals blowing out gets real expensive real quick. And also, I do not know whos doing your welding, but I hope their aware that too much heat in one place can distort the metal. causing a wobble in your pulleys.
That's a good point as well thank you. The PCV is already a one-way valve so I would just another check valve (I used a small metal PCV valve) for the VSV line.
I do my own welding, and I'll definitely be sure to allow sufficient cooling between welding passages
The pipe will be cut flat, and welded flat on the pulley.
On the other end, the pipe fits flat on the 8 rib lightning p/s pulley so if either wobbles afterwards it will be because of heat distortion and not placement
More info and pic of the 8 rib belt below and idea I read about to reduce belt slip. I ordered 3x of these, the one pictured seems to match up with the correct 3 rib belt length I used to test fit it with. I ordered one slightly larger, and slightly smaller just incase so I have those here too.
So the cheap 1998-2000 GS300 cold air intake on eBay for $53 shipped is just what I need. The 1998-2000 GS300 and 400 have the same MAF flanges. Because it is aluminum I can cut it off and weld it to my cold side of the intercooler piping.
The more I look at completely OEM 2JZGTE engine bays with stock air filters and intercooler piping, the more I wish i could get mine to look like that. Ive thought about going this route with the plastic tubes, etc but it would probably be easier to do aluminum. Although I would really like a more OEM setup. Once my finished bracket has the welds ground down, edges of all sides ground/polished and powder coated black, it wont look that bad, nearly passing for oem kindof. That paired with black intake plastic tubing would be cool to me. I know they make black intercooler piping but I dont know how durable those finishes are.
An update with some pics
Welded the 8 ribbed Ford Lightning P/S pulley to the oem power steering pulley via the 409 stainless steel 2.5" diameter pipe x 1.75" length that acts as a welding point and spacer.
I used a straight edge with a bubble level to make sure everything was straight.
Pictured are just the tack welds and not the completed ugly welds.
Had to cut about 3/4" off of where the lower radiator hose meets the radiator to clear the pulley as it was very close even with my water outlet spacers.
I did this by just moving the hose clamp up about an inch, cutting with a very sharp box cutter all the way around, slipping the hose on all the way, and moving the clamp back down. Clears the pulley fine and didn't have to remove the hose.
Welded some more of the bracket, but will have to finish that as well as the tensioner assembly.
I did run the procharger off the pulley for about 10 seconds with the un-tensioned belt.
It was flapping and slipping, so no harm done to the unit as it was only spinning slightly faster than if I spun the pulley by hand.
Everything is good, the belt lines up perfect with both pulleys, so most of the tough stuff is out of the way until the intercooler piping but that will be some one else's issue unless some one lets me use their A/C current TIG
Also, Instead of the 310cc injectors from the non-vvti 2JZGEs, I will be using Mazda RX8 Denso injectors. Not the blue ones at 530cc but the yellow ones rated at 430cc.
I also want to do something with the rear "GS400" Emblem. I am thinking of buying a used SC300/400/430 badge, but just using the "SC" part. Then carefully dremeling them apart, and putting a "/" emblem in the middle to create "GS 400 S/C" but I want the S/C part to be either flat black, or red so I will sand them and paint them maybe. I'll show a picture of this as well. It's my favorite idea and photoshop out of all the ones I tried.
DONT. Don't tell em' nothin'..let em sleep..
Just kidding with ya.
Anyway, this is awesome work. Thanks again for the time and attention to detail. much appreciated.
Eskaeone thats funny because I'm constantly torn between the sleeper vs aggressive themes.
I think my conscience will allow me to make it more racey after the build because I know it'll have the power and it is a unique build
Don't want to over-do it though
tmf2004 Thanks man I really appreciate it
As for the pcv valve, I might run a catch can if I have room.
I finished the bracket with the tensioner assembly.
Ignore some of the bracket ugliness and piece sticking up as it was cut down. Way down the line the welds will be ground and whole bracket painted black.
Also had to relocate the power steering reservoir near the battery. Used 3/8 and 5/8 power steering line.
Even used goo-gone to remove the white lettering from the hoses to look more OEM.
Had to cut part of the passenger side of the battery tray to slide battery over to make room.
Reservoir is zip tied right now but I''m already cutting in half the OEM bracket to have it bolt onto the extra spot where the battery tray is.
Did a very quick mock-up of some possible vinyl stripes I plan on doing. I might do two stripes, but off-center/assymetrical instead of the middle like shown, not decided yet.
Thanks parts alone will cost around $2100-2300. (Add more if you don't have some kind of fuel/ecu management mine was $400) This however includes many parts that need to be cut and modified. I've already added $500 for using a shop to weld/cut the bracket, and add more for having someone weld the intercooler pipes.
So basically youre looking $2100-2300 in parts, and add to how much ever it costs to fabricate everything and make it all work. For me it will be around $700-800. It might be more for others, maybe double parts cost. Youre going to put a lot of time into things you wouldnt even think of, get bolt lengths right, measure a hundred times, etc.
I'd say over 100 man hours go into a project like this if you're pioneering it like me.
I'll be in somewhere around $3,000 but could be more dependent upon the builder. Again, engine management is not included in this setup, nor headers, diff, trans mods, etc. that will optimize power
Edit: An optional step that I intend to do: Add maybe another $100-200 to get everything powder coated. I want the procharger bracket gloss black and the intercooler piping flat black to look like plastic
Kitabel youre definitely right. You wouldnt believe at how much hardware I bought amd didn't use because you dont want to run out or make second trips when youre at your place of fabrication when youre measuring and cutting everything. I bought maybe 40 pieces of bolts, spacers, etc and only ending up needed about 10. But we are talking multiple hardware store trips to different stores, and some were needed from eBay.
The bracket geometry was interesting too.
It's alot of work and hours and hours of just measuring. And then hours and hours of just researching hardware. Then buying parts, cutting, welding, rerouting stuff, etc. but I cant wait.
About ~100 man hours in just labor!
If you guys recall from the beginning of my project, I had to find out what pulleys, and belt tensioner I needed. The pulleys were somewhat easy, I knew diesels had 8 rib setups, and some trucks to match my procharger pulley. I used a ford lightning smooth pulley and ribbed p/s pulley. Although for the belt tensioner assembly for the sc belt, I couldn't look that up by car. I had to open about 100 boxes of them at work to physically see which one would be best to be welded or bolted on to my custom procharger mounting bracket. It happened that a 2001 hyundai sante fe/sonata with the 2.7L worked best, and already had spacers on it, just needed to be cut down a little.
Yes on the passenger side of the headunit there is a bracket piece that goes down, and to the bolt position on the valve cover that was for the stock resonator box. It is as thick as 1" is some spots and has a special slot cut out that locks it around this valve cover nib as well as bolting it down.
It definitely pays to do things yourself.. I think that price is fairly cheap considering S/C kits alone can range from 5-10k not including labor etc... I think this is great that you are able to this. There's only a few on here with S/C kits and who knows where all the GS's are with the RMM kit.. I say well done...
Thanks again, I have learned alot from the guys here so I definitely dont mind sharing this stuff.
Like you said, the kits were expensive but SRT only made 25 and RMM probably made a similar amount. Alot of research went into those and they sure do look nicer.
I think no one can find those kits for sale alone for the same reason why any one would keep them - a 400+ horse 15-20 year old lexus with their known reliability is just awesome.
once its done and running well, drive to texas so we can have someone film us racing our cars around. ill find a university of texas college student thats in film class do a bad *** video of our cars.
06-13-17, 09:30 PM
