Project Osaka: 12' SFP on Red
02-16-19, 04:40 PM
#122
Unfortunately I sold the interior some time ago. I'm not a fan of the superman combo personally but I see the appeal. I've seen a few pics of USB IS-F's with the red interior, if you're into that then you'd love it.
02-16-19, 10:09 PM
#123
Tech Info Resource
iTrader: (2)
There is no need to run special oil in a Torsen diff. I spent a stupid amount of time attempting to tune the Torsen in my Supra with Red Line NS and their little bottle of additive only to find it made zero difference. If it were clutch type like the Giken I am running now, I believe it would matter, but honestly with the Giken TCD, just run the Giken oil or Motul (Giken says Motul works and it's a whole lot cheaper - it's on their website). I chose to run Giken so if anything ever goes sideways with it (other than the car, which is really one of the great benefits) I can ping Giken and ask WTF?
Also, the Giken is head and shoulders better than the Torsen in my Supra, and I like it better than the TCD in the wife's GS F. Way better. That's after playing with all the settings available.
And side note on the red interior - we have this in the wife's GS F, and it wears like nobody's business. I am already seeing very bad things in the driver's seat with only 45k miles on the car. Not what I would hope for at all.
Also, the Giken is head and shoulders better than the Torsen in my Supra, and I like it better than the TCD in the wife's GS F. Way better. That's after playing with all the settings available.
And side note on the red interior - we have this in the wife's GS F, and it wears like nobody's business. I am already seeing very bad things in the driver's seat with only 45k miles on the car. Not what I would hope for at all.
Last edited by lobuxracer; 02-16-19 at 10:14 PM.
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sleepstate (02-18-19)
02-16-19, 11:03 PM
#124
There is no need to run special oil in a Torsen diff. I spent a stupid amount of time attempting to tune the Torsen in my Supra with Red Line NS and their little bottle of additive only to find it made zero difference. If it were clutch type like the Giken I am running now, I believe it would matter, but honestly with the Giken TCD, just run the Giken oil or Motul (Giken says Motul works and it's a whole lot cheaper - it's on their website). I chose to run Giken so if anything ever goes sideways with it (other than the car, which is really one of the great benefits) I can ping Giken and ask WTF?
Also, the Giken is head and shoulders better than the Torsen in my Supra, and I like it better than the TCD in the wife's GS F. Way better. That's after playing with all the settings available.
And side note on the red interior - we have this in the wife's GS F, and it wears like nobody's business. I am already seeing very bad things in the driver's seat with only 45k miles on the car. Not what I would hope for at all.
Also, the Giken is head and shoulders better than the Torsen in my Supra, and I like it better than the TCD in the wife's GS F. Way better. That's after playing with all the settings available.
And side note on the red interior - we have this in the wife's GS F, and it wears like nobody's business. I am already seeing very bad things in the driver's seat with only 45k miles on the car. Not what I would hope for at all.
04-10-19, 05:48 PM
#127
CCS-R Exhaust Dyno
Here are the exhaust runs:
Red = Baseline
Blue = HPS Elbow + aFe oiled filter
Green = HPS Elbow + aFe dry filter + gutted kitties + CCS-R Titanium Exhaust
The fill between baseline and the bolt-ons:
The car was dyno'd at EAS, 6th gear in Sport Manual.
Same wheels
Same Fuel (Shell 91).
I tried to keep things consistent as I could but here are some possible changes:
25k miles or so since my last dyno
Fresh spark plugs (literally right before the session)
aFe dry filter (my previous intake dyno was with the aFe oiled filter)
Temp + humidity (was about 7 degrees cooler but with all the rain it was more humid)
The car was hitting the speed limiter or something and was pulling early from redline.
My car is about 250 lbs. lighter than when it was last dynode
Checked my filter when I got home and it had 2 bees and was a bit dirty. Probably a few hp lost there.
Here are the exhaust runs:
Red = Baseline
Blue = HPS Elbow + aFe oiled filter
Green = HPS Elbow + aFe dry filter + gutted kitties + CCS-R Titanium Exhaust
The fill between baseline and the bolt-ons:
The car was dyno'd at EAS, 6th gear in Sport Manual.
Same wheels
Same Fuel (Shell 91).
I tried to keep things consistent as I could but here are some possible changes:
25k miles or so since my last dyno
Fresh spark plugs (literally right before the session)
aFe dry filter (my previous intake dyno was with the aFe oiled filter)
Temp + humidity (was about 7 degrees cooler but with all the rain it was more humid)
The car was hitting the speed limiter or something and was pulling early from redline.
My car is about 250 lbs. lighter than when it was last dynode
Checked my filter when I got home and it had 2 bees and was a bit dirty. Probably a few hp lost there.
04-10-19, 05:51 PM
#128
Final adjustments to the underbody aero with the F Sport Chassis Brace installed.
Here are the pictures of them finally trimmed. I probably shouldn't have cut the edge on one (Driver Side) since it actually can flap now so, I'll have to reconnect it with mesh (per the CCS-R).
Currently:
CCS-R (image courtesy of Roman from Chronos Racing):
Here are the pictures of them finally trimmed. I probably shouldn't have cut the edge on one (Driver Side) since it actually can flap now so, I'll have to reconnect it with mesh (per the CCS-R).
Currently:
CCS-R (image courtesy of Roman from Chronos Racing):
04-10-19, 06:08 PM
#129
March 11th, 2019
Brakenetic Type RS Rotors F&R, Stoptech Sport Rear Pads
My rear pads and rotors were looking pretty sorry so it was time. Despite semi recently changing the front rotors and pads, I thought it would make sense to run the Brakenetic slotted rotors front and rear together.
Interestingly enough the Brakenetic rotors are .5 lbs lighter than the stock rotors. What Brakenetic does is take Centric blanks and CNC the slot or drill pattern into them at their facility in Long Beach. I haven't had a chance to really push the rotors since I haven't been to the track but as far as daily driving and some spirited canyon runs, they're more than up to the task.
I had a good experience with the Stoptech Sport pads up front so I'm running them in the rear as well. The fronts are about half life right now but I'll be replacing them soon since the rears are fresh and some of the bite has faded from them.
Brakenetic Front - 26 lbs. new.
OE Brembo Front - 26.5 lbs new.
Brakenetic Rear - 21.5 lbs lightly lights used.
OE Brembo Rear - 21 lbs. near minimum thickness (fronts were 1lb lighter OE to OE when minimum was met).
Brakenetic Type RS Rotors F&R, Stoptech Sport Rear Pads
My rear pads and rotors were looking pretty sorry so it was time. Despite semi recently changing the front rotors and pads, I thought it would make sense to run the Brakenetic slotted rotors front and rear together.
Interestingly enough the Brakenetic rotors are .5 lbs lighter than the stock rotors. What Brakenetic does is take Centric blanks and CNC the slot or drill pattern into them at their facility in Long Beach. I haven't had a chance to really push the rotors since I haven't been to the track but as far as daily driving and some spirited canyon runs, they're more than up to the task.
I had a good experience with the Stoptech Sport pads up front so I'm running them in the rear as well. The fronts are about half life right now but I'll be replacing them soon since the rears are fresh and some of the bite has faded from them.
Brakenetic Front - 26 lbs. new.
OE Brembo Front - 26.5 lbs new.
Brakenetic Rear - 21.5 lbs lightly lights used.
OE Brembo Rear - 21 lbs. near minimum thickness (fronts were 1lb lighter OE to OE when minimum was met).
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