Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

No major updates, just a few novelty items.

I have an Ivory colored pillar on order, they told me there were only 2 Ivory driver side left before its getting discontinued, so I got 1 and my friend bought the other one.

Te37's are back on the car for the summer, so I can enjoy the re71r tires.


Ordered a flip key from Luxious Automotive on facebook. It's a good deal because they cut it and provide a transponder in the unit. Only thing needed is a battery and programming once the key arrives.

RudysSC

I could really use this on my '92 as my old button key is wearing thin. Does lexus have to program?

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I was able to program everything myself in about 3 minutes.

My understanding is that the key systems are different from 92-94, 95-97, and 98-00. My particular key (and it's programming sequence) will only work for 98-00.

92-94 - have no immobilizer and the keyless entry can't be programmed. You'll have to buy a matching key set from the dealer with a rom chip that has to be replaced as a system for keyless entry to work. More info Below:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-location.html
Aftermarket solution: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-receiver.html

95-97 - have no immobilizer and the keyless entry can be programmed. The factory keyless entry and trunk opener have a separate remote. More info Below:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sc-...-question.html
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lex...ease-help.html

98-00 - have an immobilizer and the keyless can be programmed. The factory keyless entry and trunk opener are all integrated into the 3 button key. These keys are the most complicated because they require an OEM master key to enter programming mode. The programming is done in 2 steps. To program the immobilizer a "pedal dance" is done and to program the keyless transmitter a routine is done by locking and unlocking the door. More info Below:
Programming instructions: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...ogramming.html

If you only have the valet key, then there are 3 options available (ranked from most expensive to least expensive).
1. Buy a new ecu + matching keys from the dealer.
2. Hack the ecu and delete all key codes and reprogram with 3 new keys.
3. Use a rfid copier and duplicate the signal from the valet key to make a 2nd "fake" valet key

For the longest time, option 1 was the only option. Option 2 is only done by specialty shops, but you can find diy instructions online if you search. Option 3 is a new one to me, but the tool itself is affordable (Under $50) and doesn't seem too complicated to use.

RudysSC

Woof, rough gig on these cars isn't it? My '92 sounds like a pain, but it may be worth trying the aftermarket option at some point in the future.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

The pillar never came and is officially discontinued. I was told the black pillar is also discontinued, so I held on to the one the one they sent me back in May. Finding an ivory one with all tabs intact is almost impossible, so I'm not sure what I'll be doing moving forward.

I picked up an almost new condition Tanabe Medallion touring exhaust with oem hangers


The tanabe is much smaller than the Blitz exhaust I had installed a couple of months ago.


Comparison of size of all my exhaust


When I was under the car, I noticed my rear brake lines look like it's kinking on the right side. I should have mounted it with the fitting pointing towards the rear like on the left side.


While the rear was lifted, I installed all new brake hardware for the rear calipers (similar to what I did for the front). I thought I had taken a picture when the parts arrived, so I didn't take one today.

Part numbers for rear TT brake hardware:
04946-14031 - TT Shims qty 1
04948-14010 - Fitting kit qty 1
90240-06019 - Pins qty 4
90468-12021 - retaining clip qty 2

Tanabe exhaust after installation:


Going back to a Tanabe is full circle for me, I had my 1st one in 2008. In my head, I remembered the Tanabe sounding great, but compared to the Blitz it sounds like I went back to stock. Overall, I'm happy with the tanabe because it fits so much better and has more clearance in the rear.

I also registered to show at JCCS (Japanese Classic Car Show). I'm waiting to see if my car will get approved for the event. nnnickkk hit me up and told me the rules changed and this is the first year the SC will be allowed into the event.

Organized Garage Status

TFTi

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I figured Nick would have told you.

shajbot

iTrader: (3)

Blkexcoupe - your rear sway bar endlinks are almost horizontal at full suspension droop! I'd recommend moving the attachment location toward the rear of the car (first hole in the 3 holes that is closest to the axis of the bar) to "stand up" the endlinks, assuming you're seeking an aggressive swaybar action due to the Supra style swaybar and mounts.

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I noticed that yesterday and made a note to search for adjustable end links. One of them looked like its bent, so I was planning on replacing them. I have no idea who makes the proper length for our cars.

I'm going to be changing the rear control arms with a set that I got from "lexforlife" a while back. To see if I can get more camber adjustment on the driver rear. I have a theory that one of the arms might be bent, so that's why one side is maxed and the other can still be adjusted. Changing the arms would give me an idea if my theory is true. I'd like to have the rear camber around -1.8 to -2.2 range with the oem arms if possible. I need to decide which bushings I'll be putting into these arms and if I'm replacing anything else before corner balancing the car.

shajbot

iTrader: (3)

Try to get the end links as close to perpendicular (vertical) to both the bar itself and the control arms that how you would maximize the bar’s effectiveness.

Looking at the driver side rear control arm camber bolt cams, I can see there’s some adjustment can be done. I’d try to remove the arm completely and reassemble to see if any rust or debris are blocking the way these cams rotate around. 👍

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I've had the sway bar endlinks explained to me before. A few of my friends that have dedicated race cars/teams are all aerospace and mechanical engineers, so they explain things to me on a level way above what I need to understand.

I think you're looking at the toe adjuster in the photo. The driver side camber bolt is covered by the exhaust piping in the photo.

nnnickkk

iTrader: (2)

Im the show orchestrator now???

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

This isn't directly related to my car, but it's still car related. I got a Milwaukee M18 high torque impact wrench. 1400 ft lbs in reverse



Yes.

jdmek998

Thats an awesome impact gun. I've had it for a little bit now. I don't think there is anything it will not take off. Car is still looking awesome!!

Blkexcoupe

iTrader: (8)

I'm looking into the cost of building my own end links vs buying a set. The end links themselves aren't a complicated part. If anyone has built their own adjustable end links, I'd love to hear some feedback on what parts they used. Especially the part that connects into the sway bar and LCA. I know a bolt with a spacer would get the job done, but I'd prefer to have the threaded rod with a stop nut to hold similar to stock.

Our options for aftermarket end links is very limited. If anyone knows of brands I missed, please reply.

Fronts:
Whiteline - KLC141 (110mm to 135mm adjustment)
SuperPro - TRC1045 (100mm to 120mm adjustment)
Battle Version - no part number (25mm of adjustment)

Rears:
Whiteline - KLC139 (65mm to 70mm adjustment)
Figs engineering - (Modified SC length 60.33mm to 76.2) (Standard length - 69.85mm to 85.73mm) (Custom = more you cut, the less it can adjust).
Battle Version - no part number (25mm of adjustment)

*edit* I emailed Alex of BV and he told me the adjustment capabilities of the end links.
*2nd edit* I spoke with Figs engineering too. They have a standard length and a modified length or a completely custom length for the rears. The fronts they sell the Superpro endlinks or offer to make custom links to match the rears.

That's good to hear. I've gone through a few different cordless impact guns over the year (IR and snap on), but all of them eventually end up with dead batteries. I'm waiting for the new 3/8" M12 compact impact gun to come out in the fall, so I can use that to remove lug nuts.

I used the snap on gun a few weeks while doing a s2000 wheel bearing, and the snap on gun couldn't take off the axle nut. I ended up breaking an extension too while trying to use a breaker bar. I didn't have my IR gun on hand because I thought the snap on would be sufficient. Luckily, air has never failed me.