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Hi Craig, Thanks!
I have a pair of euro-spec/CT12B turbos (pictured above) that I´ll swap to.I´m not going for high horse power, but it feels like a more reliable alternative than the used jdm turbos.
Ok, good. You will like them As you know I am also not going for big horsepower with mine and even in with the engine in stock tune (USDM TT fuel and ECU system) the CT12B's are very impressive. I think with used JDM CT20B's you would only need to have the exhaust wheels of each swapped for steel units to make them just as bulletproof. Flow-wise of course stock for stock your drop-in CT12Bs still win
Originally Posted by Lettut
No I think a fmic is low risk/ok. It´s the single turbo set ups that has a high risk of getting stopped in the MOT-inspection. I painted the fmic matt black to make it discrete anyways. Better to be safe than sorry..
Thanks for the info about Bell intercoolers! How much did it cost to get their help? I found a similar SMIC alternative sold in the UK : (: http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/gara...bitz-1637.html ) It doesn't say exactly how much it flows, but it could be an alternative. I´ll keep the fmic on the red supra, but I´m looking for alternatives for my white SC. It has a stock soarer intercooler that has seen better days.
(edit: Boergy found it before me )
Whoops! Whifitz's custom SMIC totally slipped my mind when I made my post. Good point from both Boergy and you, Anders! I was actually looking at importing one of those myself some time back before I decided to have an early JZZ30 SMIC rebuilt.
Your feeling on the front mount intercooler being okay for MOT inspection seems to line up with what I've also heard from others who have done a California BAR inspection. I didn't have to stay SMIC but once I knew I could get a fresh one in there with a modern 400CFM(about, give or take) core I was fine with it. Also, I found that the stock MKIV TT SMIC that I also have didn't quite bolt up to the existing intercooler mounting points in my SC chassis (all SC's can mount Soarer SMICs directly as the bolt holes, studs and inlet/exit holes are already there for it).
When I bought a used early Soarer SMIC and tried that it bolted right into my SC. Since I have a 1997-2000 SC front bumper on my car I had to modify a 96-00 Soarer VVT-i intercooler shroud slightly to fit the early intercooler rather than use the earlier Soarer IC shroud. I have a lot of pictures of the modifications and installation in my build thread.
Also I found that the lower outlet on the MKIV TT SMIC is angled and placed slightly different from the way the JZZ30 Soarer SMIC has its lower outlet pipe placed. Consequently the MKIV SMIC (or Whifbitz) fits better in an MKIV and the Soarer SMIC's (both non-vvt and vvt-i) fit better in any SC/Soarer. The plastic intercooler pipe that goes low just behind the radiator is also different for the MKIV and Soarer and as such the Soarer pipe should be used on a Soarer and the MKIV pipe should be used on an MKIV.
Therefore for your MKIV I do feel that the Garage Whifbitz intercooler would be a better bet. Even with my modern re-core of the JZZ30 SMIC the thickness is still just a little bit less than the MKIV SMIC so the Whifbitz version still more than likely flows a little more than what I now have.
That being said, for the side and good unobstructed stock location I think your Soarer would do well with one. I will have to look up my receipt for the work but I paid somewhere around $650 to have it done, not including the shipping. The end result was beautiful though and top notch though! The Soarer VVT-i intercooler from 1996-2000 JZZ30's has plastic end tanks and will not work as a donor for this. Has to be one with metal end tanks from a 1991-1995 Non-VVT-i model.
Bell Intercoolers can be contacted at:
Phone: 1(830) 438-6150
Fax: 1(830) 438-6170 www.bellintercoolers.com
The contact I worked with was Jonathan Gwinn-- great fellow. They should still have the jig they made when they re-cored my Soarer SMIC.
Here are pics of mine when I got it and test fitted it to the car during the swap:
Back from Bell Intercooler:
Originally Posted by Lettut
Thanks for the info and thank you for believing in my wiring skills ! . I´ve done quite a lot of electrical work on my Supras,so I hope it´ll work if I take it easy., check and double check. On my black supra, I had to convert the RHD body harness to LHD, when I did the LHD-conversion. It took me like 4 months or something, but it worked
You absolutely can and I definitely do! If you've already done basic harness conversion from RHD to LHD then you can do this. Definitely take your time, have patience, double and triple check all wiring connections and changes, continuity test everything, check and replace any suspect connectors and unwrap the whole harness to do so (but use temporary zip ties to keep the shape). There are pinout guides available but I highly recommend Gerry's big harness thread and his approach to how to go about it
Also, if you can have handy a cheap spare harness that you can cannibalize from to get any particular wire gauges and colors that you may need that can also help. Plus Supra body plugs and terminal ends of course You'll probably order a lot of OEM repair wires and terminals ends for certain fixes too.
You are going to love the end result! Take it easy and you will have that MKIV powered by a torquey twin CT12B 2JZGTE before long!
looks great! i have the same type of soarer smic here, and a 1997+ shroud. MAybe i will supercharge oder turbocharge my SC400, i will use the smic for short ways
Happy Holidays my friend ! Hope everything is good at the other side of the pond , Anders .
Am trying to bastardize a supra like you .. hahahaha
I hate to remove the 12 point roll cage on a supra project I have right now. I don't want to damage the stock MKIV dash since they are so pricey and discontinued so am installing a Lexus SC dash board like you
Happy New Year Guys!
I finally got the 1jz replaced with a 2jz.
It´s been a problem filled build. The Aristo 2jzgte I bought for this project was the worst engine you can imagine. It wasn´t possible to return it (bastards) so for a while I didn´t really know what to do with it. Severe damage to cylinder nr 1. Almost all connectors broken. Broken map sensor. etc. The head and intake was ok though, so eventually I decided to mate that with a GE-block. I´ve got some Soarer 2zge engines that I bought from England a couple of years ago.I opened one of them up and it was in good condition.
Parts
Soarer 2jzge block and sump
Aristo 2jzgte head and intake
euro spec oem turbos
Mines modified oem ECU (M/T)
new 2jzge vvti oil pump
Cometic 2,4 mm head gasket
ARP head studs
oil filter sandwich for sensors (turbo feed)
complete gasket set
new valve seals
new map sensor
a new set of used stock 440 injectors (cleaned and tested)
new set of coils (thank you Gerry!)
new water pump /timing belt/ spark plugs
rebuilt Aristo harness
The wiring was time consuming, but with the help of Gerrys excellent wiring thread It worked. No garage fire . I replaced most of the connectors using an old Soarer harness as donator.
The engine purrs like a kitten and there´s no fault codes or warning lights. It doesnt overheat. I haven´t tried it on the street yet ,it needs a new MOT inspection first.
There´s one problem though. No Air condition (neither heated nor cold air). The AC worked perfectly before I took out the 1jz. I left the AC-compressor and PS-pump in the engine bay when swapping the engines, so I know that everything in the car was ok (AC-compressor/magnetic clutch, AC-relay, AC-ecu etc). The fans runs like they should and the AC-control unit behaves like it should, but the magnetic clutch on the AC-compressor doesn´t engage.
I´ve checked the AC-related wiring 4 times now and everything seems to be correct.
AC-compressor connector pin 1 <---------> IL1:1 (lock sensor)
" " pin 2 <--------> IL1:4 (lock sensor)
" " pin4 <--------> EB1:1 (magnetic clutch)
EB1:2 <------------> ECU 40-pin:23 (magnetic clutch relay)
ECU 40 pin:34 <-----------> IL1:5 (AC request signal)
IJ1:2 <----IL1:2 <----> vsv for heater valve :2
IL1:7 <---------> vsv for heater valve: 1
ECU 80 pin:69,79,80 <----------> ground
Hello Mate!
I hope everything is fine with you down in Georgia !
It would be very kind of you if you could try to figure out what this dumb Swede has done wrong with the wiring
Yes, the red Supra has all the wiring, the heater control valve and the AC-control unit from a -92 SC300. I used the complete body harness and all the dash parts from the SC when I did the LHD-conversion.
Yes it runs with an Aristo/Supra OEM (Mines modified) 2jzgte ECU. ( I have tried 3 different ECU´s and the AC doesn´t work with any of them.)
As I mentioned above, everything worked fine before I pulled the 1JZ out, so I presume that I´ve missed something on the engine harness. All the wires that I mentioned in the previous post are checked multiple times.(I forgot pin 4 on the 80-pin connector (ground) in my list . It works as well).
PS: Great paint job on your black SC!
Thanks Anders . Yeah I love how the black SC came out. I am suppose to get the 6speed SC , which I got painted Rennaisance Red , out of the paint shop this weekend if everything goes on well as planned .
For your No Cold AC / No heater problem .
a) No hot air / heater problem -> that is more likely the Vacuum Switch Valve (VSV) being bad . You can bypass that by directly connecting the vacuum to the actuator and heater should work. If it does , it confirms that you have a bad VSV .
WAIT ....did you even use that control valve on this supra ? The HVAC needs to know that you requested heat .
b) No Cold AC -> assuming all your wiring and physical AC components are working, the problem is associated with Aristo ECUs sending a very weak AC demand signal. So what you want to do is use that signal to active a low amperage relay then the switching part of the relay to turn on the compressor by providing power to it. In the US we have this Radio Shock Part #275-233 0.5 Reed Relay
Observe Figure A . You have the 40 pin ECU connector ... you got there PIN 34 and its wiring as it sits now.
On Figure A ... connect those two wires from the relay , the one from top and the one on the right (there are two relay prongs just below that top relay prong) to pin 32 of the 40 pin ECU Connector. That pin 32 supplies +12 volts .
NOTE : Some SC300 / SC400 / MKIV harness has pin 32 of the 40 pin ECU connector empty meaning there is no pin or wire on the slot. Then use pin 31 of the 40 pin ECU Connector .
Then CUT THAT WIRE from pin 34 of the 40 pin ECU Connector and connect those two wires to the Reed Relay as shown on Figure B.
Go for a ride and let me know if your AC is working , assuming that AC system has no other mechanical problems .. ENJOY your cold air from your AC (but outside air probably cooler with all your snow ) . I will send you the bill for this in the mail , hahahaha. Rather , I still have the plans to visit you in Sweden one day when we go for another European trip, so you owe me a drink when I see you. You will have to get me drunk but am warning you, it is hard to get me drunk , it will take a lot of Absolut vodka which I love, lol. I take Absolut now as my water .
NOTE : For everyone else , this solution is for those using an ARISTO 2jzgte ECU only . The original JDM Supra MKIV ecus don't have this problem.
Sorry to hear about your engine fiasco - but I'm stoked to see you're back at it!
Thank you Rudy!
It was a real set back when I discovered that the block was bad. Depressing. I had to rest from this project for a while and regain some kind of motivation. The pricing of 2jzgte-engines are crazy nowadays, so it wasn´t fun at all. Hopefully this set up with a GE-short block /2,4mm head gasket/GE-oil pump will hold the BPU-power I´m going for.
Go for a ride and let me know if your AC is working , assuming that AC system has no other mechanical problems .. ENJOY your cold air from your AC (but outside air probably cooler with all your snow ) . I will send you the bill for this in the mail , hahahaha. Rather , I still have the plans to visit you in Sweden one day when we go for another European trip, so you owe me a drink when I see you. You will have to get me drunk but am warning you, it is hard to get me drunk , it will take a lot of Absolut vodka which I love, lol. I take Absolut now as my water
No limits on Absolut Vodka for you when you come here, if this works! . Thanks for the info! I´ve just ordered 2 reed relays. I´ll give you an update when
I´ve tried it out.
Reviving an old thread. Just signed up and read through this, great to see.
I just bought a supra and was looking to do something similar to you but do you know if the framerails/strut towers are the same on the SC compared to the Supras? Also is the firewall/frame the same on the SC300/400 cars and the motor mounts are the only thing changed?
03-16-19, 02:54 AM
As you know I am also not going for big horsepower with mine and even in with the engine in stock tune (USDM TT fuel and ECU system) the CT12B's are very impressive. I think with used JDM CT20B's you would only need to have the exhaust wheels of each swapped for steel units to make them just as bulletproof. Flow-wise of course stock for stock your drop-in CT12Bs still win 
.
) , does this car uses the Lexus HVAC controller and Aristo (Mines modified) ECU ?
