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Rh fender started cracking, so far I've sanded around the cracks. I'll wait for the 265/35-18's before I fix it because I have a feeling it will lead to more cracks. Current size is 245/40
Also got a heater installed, I'll get some pictures when the wirings done
Removed the ABS pump for an upcoming project.
Two m10x1 T brake fittings were used. It looks like a mess because I did as little bending of the lines as possible.
Here's the new heater (basically just a window defrost) installed. It's not particularly elegant but it's clearly much smaller than the original system.
And a few pictures of the car looking grimey as ever.
The never ending fender project continues.
After putting tape next to this line I realized just how far off it was. You can see it arcs rather than being flat.
Got the boost gauge hooked up to remind me to get this done sooner. Started a mockup of the intake to see what else I'll need, The projects at least a few more months out.
Charge pipe:
Routed through the (stripped) interior under the passenger seat with two 2" pipes Y-ing into one 3" pipe. From there it goes through the firewall into the bov and then the throttle body. The iacv has yet to be hooked into the system so it's heel-toe to idle. That terrible looking tube is Dual ply brake ducting from Pegasus Racing, it holds the pressure with no issues. I didn't go with steel or aluminum charge pipe because the cost of bending the tubes would've been prohibative and using generic bends with a thousand rubber fittings would've cost a bunch too.
Exhaust:
2.25" straight back(no X or H pipe yet) to the t3 flanges then it's 2.5" out of the turbos with no mufflers. There are 10 exhaust hangars total to support the systems weight.
Oil system:
One pump pulls from the bottom of the reservoir and pumps into the 2 turbo feed lines, its regulated with a water control valve that sends excess oil into the top of the reservoir. The oil pressure sits around 30psi give or take. Caps been drilled out to vent but oil was splashing out so there's foam to prevent it from getting on everything.
Misc:
Apsx wideband and boost gauge, check valve in pcv vent under throttle body as shown on Lextreme.
Still to do:
Fuel pressure regulator.
Boost management (connect wastegate system with its regulator instead of bailing wire)
Tidy up the wiring.
Turbo Blankets.
Heat shield for the fuel tank.
Gold heat tape.
Secure charge pipes.
Install a Supra radiator.
Overall results:
Max boost is pictured below, 9.2psi at roughly 5200rpm(see gold ring), and not an ideal afr. Overall pressure seems to start building at 2500 rpm and keeps going gradually, so it's definately not a sharp hit of power. Its worth noting the wastegate ports on the compressor housing(to feed the actuator a reading) are not plugged to keep maximum pressure down.
Reclocked the turbos so the wastegate actuators have been installed.
Before installing the second check valve in the pcv I blew a cam seal out.
This is what it looked like, oil had been blowing onto the egr valve and exhaust manifold.
Here's the charge pipe, would love to go with steel and real clamps at some point but the brake ducting will work for this pressure level. You can see the two 2" lines Y into one and then it's 3" ducting through the firewall.
The engine bay will be cleaned up but here's how it currently sits. The iacv will be plumbed into the Bov section of pipe. You can see the adjustable rising rate fuel pressure regulator by the brake m/c.
Had a oil feed line blow while testing the fpr, drained the reservoir and ran the turbos dry for a few minutes(didn't realize it blew until I parked the car.) Put everything back together and the turbos still spool, though I'm sure they are burning oil. They will be rebuilt when the time comes, but for now I'll not spend more money on that until the kinks are worked out.
So I've run basically a whole tank of fuel through the car, here's what I've learned. Positive pressure is coming on closer to 3k (you can get a few pounds if you pull a hill in 6th at 70mph, is that normal?)
The stock fuel setup can't handle more than 4psi. At wot it sits around 12afr and than around 4 psi it moves to 13 and then 15afr at 7-8psi. The rising rate fpr solved that no problem, got low 11afr's at wot throughout the rev range and pressure built more abruptly.(it needs to be adjusted still)
The cars going to sit for a little while since new tires need to be bought, the supra radiator needs to be installed, all the oil lines will be redone, and a digital pressure gauge needs to be installed so I can read oil pressure from the cluster (honestly not sure why I didn't do that in the first place) While the cars down the Electrical will be prettyified because it's weird lengths with no loom.
Started having issues with the feed oil pump, where it would overheat and turn off leading to 0 pressure at the turbo every 20 minutes. Coupled with compressor surge the compressor wheel broke, luckily the shards were sitting in the air filter and didn't make it to the motor.
Got NAS lca's because I'm cheap, having good Ball joints and bushings is amazing.
Replacement turbo and Shurflo 8000-543-238 pumps arrived so we will see how well that works. This design of pump is rated up to 100psi continuous cycle and a fairly low temp of 180F. Oil temps have been around 160 but a cooler may be in order.
Got on a Dyno Dynamic, red is run1 and green is run2 with the wastegate preload adjusted better and the bov under vacuum.(It was disconnected on the first run and may have been leaking pressure)
Max torque: 423. Rwhp: 373.
Pressure reached 7 psi but was high 6 through the rest of the run.
Here is run2 in red laid over a stock 05 ls2 manual GTO, green. This gives you an idea of this dyno's accuracy, which appears to be spot on with other GTOs getting around 350 aswell.
11-24-17, 10:25 AM
