Update:

Let's start with the good news:
1 - I finally put my hands on a 2GR-FSE from Japan with 120.000km = 74.564 miles.
2 - I hit the lottery with this one, it comes with a Tom's Supercharger, ECU+Control unit and transmission for the SC. It was part of an auction and I own the bid. Total price was $5945 delivered on my door(still not delivered, I fear taxes on it, but I am not sure how it works for used parts).
3 - I also got an 8HP-ZF70 8 speed transmission two weeks before that. It was from a Jaguar XF250 diesel, I paid €350 for it, because these Jags are trashy. But that doesn't matter. Why? Because they come tuned for those Jags, so it doesn't matter because I will change the TCU (chip) with a Turbonamik TUC ( which cost £1500).
4 - I am also adding a sequential shift on this car, plus a hydro hand brakes (pure Frankenstein).

The bad news:
1 - Of course I am broke for the next 2-3 months. I should add price to everything below, but I won't so I don't get disappointed and anxious. Better go with the flow.. hahahaha
2 - The engine below has marks of oil. What do you think? is it normal? Was it worth the risk? What if the owner used to beat the hella of this engine?
3 - Belts needs replacement.
4 - I will buy a new Landcruiser fuel pump for the is250.
5- I will have to buy an extra fuel line, which goes from the tank to the engine. Hence, the 2gr-fse has an extra fuel line. Also, a guy in my country(80km away) did swap his is250 engine too, but is being helpless with explaining stuff(close to zero communication). So, I will have to figure out everything alone.
6 - I will have to do this engine swap alone. I don't like to say it, but I will have to... Most mechanics in Ireland are horrible and make too many mistakes, and the good JDM specialists(two or three in the whole country) are fully booked for at least one year and are extremely expressive (which I could use that money to respray my car, because it needs an urgent respray, possible in October 2026), plus underbody paint).

The plan and very logical (I am planning as a write), correct me if there is anything to add up:
1 - Receive the engine in September / October.
2 - Buy a fuel line and fuel pump in October.
3 - Figure out if there are any missing connections on the motor loom.
3.1 = Compare the 2gr transmission bolt pattern vs the 8hp transmission, this way I can design or find an adapter to fit the 8HP to the 2GR in the end of 2026.
4 - Restore the motor outside = clean and paint a few parts with high temp paint (I am still figuring out the colours).
5 - Once everything is restored, then I must fix my daily (2009 Honda RSZ, which needs a set of drive shafts, which can only be imported from Japan). Once daily is fixed, then I will start disassembling the 4rg engine and transmission.
6 - Since I am doing this alone, the whole motor and transmission removal, it might take about 4 days (I say 4 days because this way, I lower my expectations).
7 - Compare both motors and transmission side to side and see if there is any missing / miss matches before installing the 2gr-fse motor and transmission.
7.1 = Replace the serpentine belt and all bearings for all the pulleys.
7.2 = Replace all spark plugs ( I don't think I need to swap any coil packs until 2027).
8 - Buy a bigger radiator for the motor in March 2026, then install it when it arrives.
9 - No, I am not opening this 2gr motor for inspection, I will take the chance/risk, install it, and drive it softly until I have enough money saved for a full service of the supercharger and engine.
10 - This should be bullet point 7, but yes, the transmission fluid will be changed.
10.1 - Install the motor, I am hopping to start the install in November/December of 2025 and finish before April of 2026 (yes, I am lowering my expectations again, in case there are missing parts and I need to wait for orders to arrive)
11 - August of 2026 I will start ordering the parts for the 8HP-ZF70 = Turbonamik TCU, sequential shifter, electronic clutch, hydro handbrake, and brake connections, ordering an adapter for the 8HP-ZF70 to a 2gr-fse or designing one myself and outsourcing it from a machine-shop(in case I can't find an after market adapter). But I suspect that the 2JZ to 8HP adapter fits the 2gr-fse, as I heard that the mot patter is the same.
12 - Restore the underbody of the car, paint what can be painted, and replace what has to be replaced.
13 - Install after market good quality camber arms and braces. (drop links will be installed to).
13.1 - Install LSD at the end of 2026.
14 - Install the 8HP-ZF70 transmission (hopefully by the end of 2026).
15 - To be honest, I think that I will only be able to respray the car in March of 2027 or later.
16 - The car is ready. Now we save for a full service.
17 - Sell the car.....ahahaha... I am joking, no, I am not selling it, I am a keeper...

Finally:
I will give updates here and new learnings as I go by the install, but I will focus on the engine swap on this thread, so we don't mix things up.
But, as you have seen an old project is not only about swapping the motor and transmission. The car must have all fundamental bits working in harmony (specially structurally, stiffness for a controlled balance, and the suspension side).

Bonus, the pictures of the motor I ordered from Japan is attached below:


ECU, 2 Keys, And the dusty superchargers. This supercharger, definitely needs some painting, please help me with some decent colour ideas (My car colour is Desert Sage Green).



A few suspicious marks of oil



Almost complete engine



Some nasty weld, but it holding together. Usual 7000km oil colour in the engine.



Tom's control unit



2gr-fse ECU, plus 2 Keys



Some clean up will be required



Suspicious oil marks, also the serpentine belt will need replacement.

 

Hey so I am just about to start on this swap except it seems everyone is starting from a MT IS250. I'm starting from a AT IS350 and I have everything for the manual swap. Seems like it should be easier since I don't have to deal with the injectors/wiring for the engine. The only thing I think I would need is a custom driveshaft as the 350 uses a different diff.

 

Hi guys,
I finished build recently got it back from programming after 1 year we went with ALL4SWAPru unit and it solved most of the problems.
I am still having odd problem when going full throttle from 1st gear to 2nd I have then 2 second no throttle response and then it jumps dont know if related to ABS?
Cruise control nothing other than that quite functional...

 

It's related to the clutch start switch telling the ECU that you're in neutral. See about disconnecting that signal from getting to the ECU.

For cruise control, you need to make sure the ECU thinks you're in D, but you'll want it to cut out if you push the clutch. Consider using the clutch switch to trigger the D signal to the ECU.

Jeff

 

Yuri from ALL4SWAP told me the same thing to disconnect all DNPR and Clutch sensor cable from ECU. That begs the question then how do you start the car? Through the clutch pedal probably no if the sensor cable does not go to ECU. It rather seems there is some breakout box in between which does something like that and I wonder how it works so fabricate mine to mimic those signals.
The car works ok if dont put feet to the metal when I do full throttle then on 2nd gear it probably freaksout it does not do it in any other gear.

 

You can get an A/T power source control ECU and start the car with brake pedal instead, but there is a way to keep the starting with the clutch pedal and still not have the ECU get that signal.

Jeff

 

sorry for the additional question then but how would that box work with the clutch pedal?
Would that be something which would for example detect a condition of started up engine (13.8V instead of 12.5V of the battery) and disconnect the signal?
Being placed between clutch pedal sensor and ecu input.
Thanks for any clues

 

You would just disconnect the clutch pedal and it would ignore it.

For a time I did have a relay in place that would only keep the clutch pedal switch connected until the car started, but found it unnecessary once I realized the signal could be disconnected from the engine ECU, at which point I reverted everything back to stock with the exception of that modification.

Jeff

 

Hate to revive an old thread but...

I'm planning to swap my '07 250 MT to a 350, and I'm trying to figure out what I'll need. I read through most of the thread, and I'm aiming to buy a whole donor car since mine's as base as possible, no features, not even heated or vented seats. I'll probably look for a '06-'08 350 because I heard they changed a bunch of modules after '09 and the pre-facelift stuff is simpler.

Since I want the interior goodies, I'll grab the dash harness for the memory seats, power column, nav, etc. Outside of that, what about the engine side? I'm guessing the fuel system has to come over, too. Which modules do I actually need to swap? I know the 350 has VDIM and the 250 doesn't. Do I need just the ECU? With a full donor car on hand, I'd rather move everything over if it's required while it's apart.

Can I keep the stock IS250 clutch and flywheel? I read they're a bit weaker, but I won't be beating on the car.

I won't start until I find the right donor; the color/option combo I want is rare, and my cashmere interior hardly shows up, especially with top specs. Plus, I want lower miles, under 100k. So, I know I'll be waiting a while.

Thanks
Joe

 

Clutch needs to reinforced or there is uprated clutch from Aisin DTX-137 (increased size). Pressure plate should be F-Sport or Improved although Iam running stock without problem so far. I am running Y split for both injectors instead of 2 lines to tank (no problems so far). Certain sensors are connected differently (wiring switched wires) - outside temperature sensor and AC also. To save lot of troubles with electrics you definitely buy ALL4SWAP ru ECU from Yurii otherwise the car will never run with original or IS350 ecu with manual. Also I am currently having discussions to start car through clutch but then disconnect through relay a clutch cable to ECU to prevent ABS limiter to limit full throttle on 1st and 2nd.

 

What else would I need to program? Would I have any problems with the immobilizer and other modules, or is it just the ECU?
Also, is it drivable without programming, because I know someone who could potentially program it for me, but I’d have to take it on a road trip.
Since I’ll have the whole donor car, I’ll probably just swap over the whole fuel system, so I don’t think I'll have much trouble with the fuel system part.
What did you find out about starting it with the clutch? Correct me if I’m wrong, but can’t you reroute the start wiring to the clutch? I’m not very good with the electrical part of cars, though...

Thanks
Joe

 

Nobody I know can program it. I had a software programmer on that trying to simulate the AT modules and the car ran with limited power. Took 6 months of bench testing and was waste of time. Buy the unit from All4swap cuz he dealt already with the intrusive part of AT codes and lot of other things work out of the box and you can concentrate on things like AC, alternator, cruise control etc. Car will limit power if detects too much torque and clutch pedal signal. The mechanical part is pretty much bolton.

 

Not mentioning that the unit from Yuri already has improved map, massively improved throttle response and rpms dropping and rising much faster together with a chromoly flywheel or exedy kit that car is entirely different beast. I have 4.6 FD and pulls very nice.

 

In that case I think I’m set… it’s just a matter of finding a good donor in the salvage auctions.
Thanks for your input though.
Joe

 

4.6 final drive ratio? What LSD did you put in? y38?

hows the RPM’s at like 80mph? Acceleration night and day difference? Would it be similar to a 6AT is250 with the stock final drive ratio, but the rpm’s similar to how it is when driving in 5th gear in the 6 speed automatic is250?