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Little update on my setup purchased some arms from figs to get rid of some of my camber. I went with figs because I know they are quality parts, very sturdy, and easy to adjust. Pretty much once you break the lock nuts you can turn them by hand.
Heres res a pic in the difference in arm length
After installation pics.. it got rid of my-8 on ride height and put it down to -3 with plenty more adjustment room
GOOD ***** Seriously considering the rear kit from figs. Have you noticed a difference from tire wear front and rear? I assume you had tire wear issues as well prior to installing these suspension arms?
I definitely had tire wear only because the way oem alignment is for toe is in so that destroyed my tires on the negative 8 setup. I'm sure if I went with 0 toe I would've not have as much as a wear on themMy front are still good. My tears are at -1.3 now and I have them aligned to 0 toe... not factory.
Originally Posted by Skylar978
GOOD ***** Seriously considering the rear kit from figs. Have you noticed a difference from tire wear front and rear? I assume you had tire wear issues as well prior to installing these suspension arms?
Wow, from -8 to -1.3. That is a HUGE difference. Im assuming your fitment is fender to rim now in the rear? Love the direction your car is heading! I am debating if I should modify the knuckles, or cut my strut towers. I hate this AWD stance up front lol
Also, how is your vibration now after all the arms, have they made an improvement? I may do the motor spacers soon, maybe that would remedy it..not to mention axle binding. I am on my 3rd set of axles
Wow, from -8 to -1.3. That is a HUGE difference. Im assuming your fitment is fender to rim now in the rear? Love the direction your car is heading! I am debating if I should modify the knuckles, or cut my strut towers. I hate this AWD stance up front lol
Also, how is your vibration now after all the arms, have they made an improvement? I may do the motor spacers soon, maybe that would remedy it..not to mention axle binding. I am on my 3rd set of axles
I would start with shortened knuckles 30mm. The arms doesn't do anything with vibrations. The only that helps it the most is the figs rear poly bushings for the LCA. And that dampens a lot of it. To solve this issue I think only extended axles will work but you'd have to get a drive shaft shop to make that. I'm still on my first set of axles and boots torn but that's it, maybe some wear and tear on the inside.
As far as the motor spacers they would work but only a little. You'll need to raise up the motor a lot for it to actually make the vibrations disappear.
i have both shortened knuckles and the hole on my shock tower. I only did both to get rid of any possibilities of the UCA ball joint/spc camber kit from banging the tower during normal driving or hitting any bumps.
as for future set up im going to try smaller tire width so I can pull the camber out in the front more and in the rear. I definitely want a flush fender to lip setup. I tuck the front and line up and what not
love it. The management works he best in my opinion. However, some people are having issues with it airing down on them. I haven't had that issue. I think it's more of those staying connected to ilevel and streaming music or any other apps. I do wish it was a Bluetooth design other than wifi.
Im running BC coils with uas bags and I can't really compare it to air runner since they don't make AWD bags for the GS... at least last time I checked. Price wise airrunner at the time was way too expensive imo for being toggle switch instead of management
I would start with shortened knuckles 30mm. The arms doesn't do anything with vibrations. The only that helps it the most is the figs rear poly bushings for the LCA. And that dampens a lot of it. To solve this issue I think only extended axles will work but you'd have to get a drive shaft shop to make that. I'm still on my first set of axles and boots torn but that's it, maybe some wear and tear on the inside.
As far as the motor spacers they would work but only a little. You'll need to raise up the motor a lot for it to actually make the vibrations disappear.
i have both shortened knuckles and the hole on my shock tower. I only did both to get rid of any possibilities of the UCA ball joint/spc camber kit from banging the tower during normal driving or hitting any bumps.
as for future set up im going to try smaller tire width so I can pull the camber out in the front more and in the rear. I definitely want a flush fender to lip setup. I tuck the front and line up and what not
