I always thought this method went against all common sense in that those check valves could not last and operate reliably and you sort of just backed up what I was already thinking about those. Every time I see those exhaust check valves on a supra I cringe a little bit.
We already have enough volume of exhaust gases from our mighty motors and then to try and stick crank case gases down there also is just a bad idea. with big power comes big heat and those check valves are really only meant for a drag car that will only do a certain amount of passes before a tear down and those should be replaced often.. or poof to all your seals.

Even when routed right 2 lines to a can, and then a larger line to the turbo, it is hard to get a good enough scavenging effect at the turbo intake pipe because its so far from the intake manifold and past the turbo. Generally you are pushing the gasses out at that point faster than the vacuum can do much. If you have an open filter on the catch can then there is no point to connecting it to the intake the scavenging effect will do nothing, you can only get the scavenging when the can is sealed all the way to the intake and even then it varies how much vac you can actually get.

also the angle it runs into the intake pipe can have some effect also I would think. think of the ports on the throttle body that only give vac under certain conditions, has to do with size and angle. I would think making it come into the intake pipe at an angle towards the turbo, would cause the air rushing past it to literally pull it out of the line. If you were to face it towards the front, it would likely impede the flow from the catch can. most people have it coming in straight (I admit mine was that way when I had a line on there), and that will work but wont give the most scavenging. I wish I had some sort of flow bench to make a perfect intake pipe for a catch can setup.

as long as it can vent out safely you are good to go, If you can get the scavenging to work you will notice it more in vacuum the engine will feel stonger as the rings seal better, but in boost the vac can't keep up since there is a 4" open filter at the end of the same pipe. the rest about which method to use or route is just about oil spraying on your valve covers with a breather or in your intercooler piping if you have a can, there are tradeoffs with all the methods but I would stay away from anything that has the potential to fail and block off your vent I.E. any type of check valve, and do not tee both of them together into one line, having 2 breathers on the valvecover is better than that as long as you keep the baffles in.

 

I think that is the secret... and not teeing both valve cover exits into one line as Ali mentioned. Flow from one would be blocking the other I guess...flow from each would be competing at the point where they are T'ed. And true , there is no point of routing back a line to the turbo intake if you have a filter on your catch can.

The bigger lines you can go on your valve covers like -12an the easier pressure can flow out.

 

well got the wheels and tires back and I am very excited to get them mounted tonight hopefully!

 

Nice.....do you need to roll your fenders ?

 

All the fender have been rolled already So i think i should be fine. I did a real quick test fit last night and it seems like everything will be ok. If not ill have to pull the rear a little.

 

so truth be told the trans has to be come out! so pissed. After rebuilding it and checking that all gears engage before installing it, the damn thing wont go into first and 5th. We did a few things to determine if it was clutch related or not and it still does the same thing.

What happens is when I try to go into first, it stops and when I continue to push with some force it starts to grind the gears. But 2-4 and reverse go into gear just fine.

Anybody have any clue as to why this is happening? Clutch line is bleed probably 20 times with new fluid so I'm sure its good. Same goes with adjustment of the pedal.

Sucks but what can I do, suck it up, get it out, figure out what went wrong and put it back in..

 

Damn ... sorry to hear that Richard. I thought you found a fix after our text messaging conversations last night.

I hope it is not something major tranny internal problem. Was that a MK3 R154 or Soarer .

 

We messed with it for a couple hours the other night and still the same problem. No idea what happened.

Its a Mk3 R154

 

It took four days, but I read it all! I was hoping that when I got done it was a happy ending... Guess there's more story to be written. I'm new to the sc community and here but just wanted to congratulate you on all your hard work and to keep it up. I'm an engineer and some of those fabrications where intense you pulled off.

 

Thanks for the kind words and going through the whole 38 pages. Hope this thread will help you, if you decide to build yours and welcome! Its definitely been a struggle with this build for sure but its nearly there just another minor set back

 

So Trans is out which was a mission in its self. Its almost easier to pull the motor in 3.5 hours than spend 4 painful hours to get just the trans off. Anyway, now that the trans is out the stupid thing is shifting just fine through all gears while spinning the input shaft and holding the output shaft. Not much play between gears either from what I can feel.

So after talking with a few people I think we came to the conclusion that its something with beech performance shifter or something in the center consul that was making the shifter bind. It must have not been aligned, not bolted down completely or something was inside the shifter it self stopping it from going into those gears???? Not sure what to think. So next thing ill being doing is getting the "new rebuild Kit" from DriftMotion which supposedly eliminates the slop in the shifter and makes it fell a little tighter.

Anybody else have any thoughts about this situation?

 

I'd like to see all receipts for the last few months please ???

Thanks,

Shane

 

Seriously I avoid looking at the SC300 folder in my email that contains all the receipts.. Lol

So I also decided to extend the shifter so its the same length as the v160.. Ill be getting the v160 boot and rubber tunnel parts that seal the trans off from the outside to the inside. Reason for doing this, is because 1) I'm going to open up the trans to inspect everything while I have it out so might as well 2) Getting to the w58 boot with out completely dissembling the center console is a straight pain in the ***. 3) I know in the future when clutch swaps will happen it will make things much easier. 4) filling the trans with fluid will be easier.

So instead of having the actual shifter extended (swan neck style) like I have now, I will extend the housing so that the shifter will be straight up and down like the v160. This will bring the shifter tunnel boots and everything else closer to the center making it much easier to access nearly everything on the shifter side.

 

Over the weekend I was able to stop by Driftmotion to check out the shop and ended up picking up a few things.

PS cooler with lines and fittings
MT 90 trans oil
New Driftmotion billet reverse fork
New OEM shifter gasket
MC shifter socket
Beech performance short shifter rebuilt kit

Took the trans apart to install the new reverse fork and to finish the shifter extension. Everything looked good inside the trans and no issues inside. So I must have had some short shifter problem when it wasn't going into first and 5th..




Shifter extended about 5" and nearly complete. I should have it done tonight.





DM power steering cooler

 

trans will be going in tonight. Everything seems to be working fine and as it should. Ill finish the shifter lever after the trans is in. That way I can make any last fitment adjustments to the shifter lever and make sure it will sit where I want it.

Also forgot to mention I got the Megan Racing Polly trans mount for the w58 which bolted on with no modifications.