2008 ISF Audio Build
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: NY
They are the 172PRS speakers and they fit PERFECTLY into the front OEM ML spacers. Like BigAudio mentioned to me when we were installing them, it's as if they were made for them... haha
I am also pushing 2 Type-R's, they are 10's, in the same type of sub box. I am using an alpine mono block amp for the subs. They hit hard. I have them tuned down a bit, as it was overkill when first installed. Also it makes a HUGE difference when the rear arm rest is down. I also removed the entire skipass apparatus. This system is really nice though.
Lead Lap
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 461
Likes: 4
From: ca
Here are some finished pictures. Will get more when he comes for tuning. I will also check out if adding the sub to the inputs for summing adds anything.
Fuse block was placed on top of the fuse box for a few reasons.
Quick removal is you need to get to fuses.
Held in place with no drilling any holes.
Perfect location
Also the ground wire was upgraded as well, using the stock grounding location only paint was removed and stock bolt.
Fuse block was placed on top of the fuse box for a few reasons.
Quick removal is you need to get to fuses.
Held in place with no drilling any holes.
Perfect location
Also the ground wire was upgraded as well, using the stock grounding location only paint was removed and stock bolt.
the system looks good, nice install!
the only thing i would point out is, although you upgraded the battery negative cable to 1/0 and used 1/0 (+) from the front battery to the rear, i didn't see the upgraded alternator positive wire. The stock alternator is fine for that system, as it is 180a. Plenty for what you have. But when the car is running, that 1/0 you added is not helping unless the factory alt to batt wire is also upgraded. Its 4ga at best and is basically a bottle neck at this point. No need to replace it, just add a 1/0 cable right over the top of the factory one. Also, upgrade the engine to frame ground as well. If you don't, that is also a HUGE bottle neck.
The reason this is important is because when the car is running, all power is coming from the alternator, not the battery(s). The battery(s) are actually a load when the car is running. Thats why its very important to do "the big three" when upgrading your system and not just the battery. Think about it, most factory alternator positives are 4ga (or smaller) and most engine grounds are a thin, flat, braided, wimpy wire. You upgrade your stuff to 1/0 but when the car is ON, those wimpy wires are now your bottle neck and all power is being pulled though those.
i know this thread is old but i just wanted to bring that up for those that are just now seeing it.
big three upgrade:
Alternator to Battery (+)
Engine to frame (-)
Battery (-) to frame
Last edited by meade916; Nov 22, 2012 at 12:43 PM.
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: NY
the system looks good, nice install!
the only thing i would point out is, although you upgraded the battery negative cable to 1/0 and used 1/0 (+) from the front battery to the rear, i didn't see the upgraded alternator positive wire. The stock alternator is fine for that system, as it is 180a. Plenty for what you have. But when the car is running, that 1/0 you added is not helping unless the factory alt to batt wire is also upgraded. Its 4ga at best and is basically a bottle neck at this point. No need to replace it, just add a 1/0 cable right over the top of the factory one. Also, upgrade the engine to frame ground as well. If you don't, that is also a HUGE bottle neck.
The reason this is important is because when the car is running, all power is coming from the alternator, not the battery(s). The battery(s) are actually a load when the car is running. Thats why its very important to do "the big three" when upgrading your system and not just the battery. Think about it, most factory alternator positives are 4ga (or smaller) and most engine grounds are a thin, flat, braided, wimpy wire. You upgrade your stuff to 1/0 but when the car is ON, those wimpy wires are now your bottle neck and all power is being pulled though those.
i know this thread is old but i just wanted to bring that up for those that are just now seeing it.
big three upgrade:
Alternator to Battery (+)
Engine to frame (-)
Battery (-) to frame
the only thing i would point out is, although you upgraded the battery negative cable to 1/0 and used 1/0 (+) from the front battery to the rear, i didn't see the upgraded alternator positive wire. The stock alternator is fine for that system, as it is 180a. Plenty for what you have. But when the car is running, that 1/0 you added is not helping unless the factory alt to batt wire is also upgraded. Its 4ga at best and is basically a bottle neck at this point. No need to replace it, just add a 1/0 cable right over the top of the factory one. Also, upgrade the engine to frame ground as well. If you don't, that is also a HUGE bottle neck.
The reason this is important is because when the car is running, all power is coming from the alternator, not the battery(s). The battery(s) are actually a load when the car is running. Thats why its very important to do "the big three" when upgrading your system and not just the battery. Think about it, most factory alternator positives are 4ga (or smaller) and most engine grounds are a thin, flat, braided, wimpy wire. You upgrade your stuff to 1/0 but when the car is ON, those wimpy wires are now your bottle neck and all power is being pulled though those.
i know this thread is old but i just wanted to bring that up for those that are just now seeing it.
big three upgrade:
Alternator to Battery (+)
Engine to frame (-)
Battery (-) to frame
Don't know if I'm capable of doing these modifications myself.
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