93 GS300 Build
93 GS300 Build
Hi guys, My name is Losaun,
I have a 93 GS300. I was looking forward to putting a 2JGTE swap into my GS until I found a black on black sc300 5speed for a dirt cheap price. So I purchased a GE engine for little of nothing. Cam seals, timing belt, water pump, rear man seal, dipstick seal, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket have all been changed. I have a few issues I need help right now.
1. when I spin the crank shouldn't I hear compression sounds? I spin the crank on the old engine and can hear compression sounds. Is there something I am missing? The new engine has under 90K on it and is really clean. I am trying to avoid putting the engine in the car and it has major failure issues. I know the timing is correct.
2. I dropped my torque converter on the floor from about 2 feet off the ground. should I be worried.
3. What do I need to do to get the torque converter seated into the trans correctly..
4. When I press the brakes hard at low speeds the front drivers wheels seems to completely move. what could this be?
5. I have the engine and trans out of the car and I am anxious to put the new one in but my rack and pinion is completly busted. Should I do it before the I put the engine back in? (potentially stupid question.....) Sorry...
Here are some pictures of my baby!!!
I have a 93 GS300. I was looking forward to putting a 2JGTE swap into my GS until I found a black on black sc300 5speed for a dirt cheap price. So I purchased a GE engine for little of nothing. Cam seals, timing belt, water pump, rear man seal, dipstick seal, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket have all been changed. I have a few issues I need help right now.
1. when I spin the crank shouldn't I hear compression sounds? I spin the crank on the old engine and can hear compression sounds. Is there something I am missing? The new engine has under 90K on it and is really clean. I am trying to avoid putting the engine in the car and it has major failure issues. I know the timing is correct.
2. I dropped my torque converter on the floor from about 2 feet off the ground. should I be worried.
3. What do I need to do to get the torque converter seated into the trans correctly..
4. When I press the brakes hard at low speeds the front drivers wheels seems to completely move. what could this be?
5. I have the engine and trans out of the car and I am anxious to put the new one in but my rack and pinion is completly busted. Should I do it before the I put the engine back in? (potentially stupid question.....) Sorry...
Here are some pictures of my baby!!!
Last edited by Losaun; Nov 20, 2009 at 08:17 PM.
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 208
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From: CA
Hi guys, My name is Losaun,
I have a 93 GS300. I was looking forward to putting a 2JGTE swap into my GS until I found a black on black sc300 5speed for a dirt cheap price. So I purchased a GE engine for little of nothing. Cam seals, timing belt, water pump, rear man seal, dipstick seal, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket have all been changed. I have a few issues I need help right now.
1. when I spin the crank shouldn't I hear compression sounds? I spin the crank on the old engine and can hear compression sounds. Is there something I am missing? The new engine has under 90K on it and is really clean. I am trying to avoid putting the engine in the car and it has major failure issues. I know the timing is correct.
2. I dropped my torque converter on the floor from about 2 feet off the ground. should I be worried.
3. What do I need to do to get the torque converter seated into the trans correctly..
4. When I press the brakes hard at low speeds the front drivers wheels seems to completely move. what could this be?
5. I have the engine and trans out of the car and I am anxious to put the new one in but my rack and pinion is completly busted. Should I do it before the I put the engine back in? (potentially stupid question.....) Sorry...
I have a 93 GS300. I was looking forward to putting a 2JGTE swap into my GS until I found a black on black sc300 5speed for a dirt cheap price. So I purchased a GE engine for little of nothing. Cam seals, timing belt, water pump, rear man seal, dipstick seal, valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket have all been changed. I have a few issues I need help right now.
1. when I spin the crank shouldn't I hear compression sounds? I spin the crank on the old engine and can hear compression sounds. Is there something I am missing? The new engine has under 90K on it and is really clean. I am trying to avoid putting the engine in the car and it has major failure issues. I know the timing is correct.
2. I dropped my torque converter on the floor from about 2 feet off the ground. should I be worried.
3. What do I need to do to get the torque converter seated into the trans correctly..
4. When I press the brakes hard at low speeds the front drivers wheels seems to completely move. what could this be?
5. I have the engine and trans out of the car and I am anxious to put the new one in but my rack and pinion is completly busted. Should I do it before the I put the engine back in? (potentially stupid question.....) Sorry...
1. You should feel resistance when you rotate the crank because of compression. You don't necessarily hear it.
2. Inspect your torque converter on the outside for dents or holes. It is hollow inside because it fills with transmission fluid so you don't want holes leaking out transmission fluid. You don't want dents because it needs to spin smoothly. Dents would cause it to be out of balance and wobble.
3. Torque converter seating: Using a feeler gauge and straight edge, measure between the installed surface of the transmission and the straight edge.
Clearance should be less than 0.1 mm (0.004 in.) Almost flush.
See picture below.
4. Most likely warped rotors are causing your steering wheel to shimmy. Service your brakes by bleeding dirty fluid, check/replace rotors and grease your caliper pins with caliper grease.
5. Yes, you should fix your steering rack and pinion first. It is easier to work on it with the engine out of the way from above unless you have a lift to work on it from below. If it's completely busted I would try to find a used one from a junk yard and just replace the whole assembly.
Excessive play can be caused by several things:
1. Steering system joints (Worn)
2. Suspension arm ball joints (Worn)
3. Intermediate shaft, Universal joint, Sliding yoke (Worn)
4. Front wheel bearing (Worn)
5. Power steering gear
6. PPS system
Welcome to the club...
1. You should feel resistance when you rotate the crank because of compression. You don't necessarily hear it.
2. Inspect your torque converter on the outside for dents or holes. It is hollow inside because it fills with transmission fluid so you don't want holes leaking out transmission fluid. You don't want dents because it needs to spin smoothly. Dents would cause it to be out of balance and wobble.
3. Torque converter seating: Using a feeler gauge and straight edge, measure between the installed surface of the transmission and the straight edge.
Clearance should be less than 0.1 mm (0.004 in.) Almost flush.
See picture below.
4. Most likely warped rotors are causing your steering wheel to shimmy. Service your brakes by bleeding dirty fluid, check/replace rotors and grease your caliper pins with caliper grease.
5. Yes, you should fix your steering rack and pinion first. It is easier to work on it with the engine out of the way from above unless you have a lift to work on it from below. If it's completely busted I would try to find a used one from a junk yard and just replace the whole assembly.
Excessive play can be caused by several things:
1. Steering system joints (Worn)
2. Suspension arm ball joints (Worn)
3. Intermediate shaft, Universal joint, Sliding yoke (Worn)
4. Front wheel bearing (Worn)
5. Power steering gear
6. PPS system
1. You should feel resistance when you rotate the crank because of compression. You don't necessarily hear it.
2. Inspect your torque converter on the outside for dents or holes. It is hollow inside because it fills with transmission fluid so you don't want holes leaking out transmission fluid. You don't want dents because it needs to spin smoothly. Dents would cause it to be out of balance and wobble.
3. Torque converter seating: Using a feeler gauge and straight edge, measure between the installed surface of the transmission and the straight edge.
Clearance should be less than 0.1 mm (0.004 in.) Almost flush.
See picture below.
4. Most likely warped rotors are causing your steering wheel to shimmy. Service your brakes by bleeding dirty fluid, check/replace rotors and grease your caliper pins with caliper grease.
5. Yes, you should fix your steering rack and pinion first. It is easier to work on it with the engine out of the way from above unless you have a lift to work on it from below. If it's completely busted I would try to find a used one from a junk yard and just replace the whole assembly.
Excessive play can be caused by several things:
1. Steering system joints (Worn)
2. Suspension arm ball joints (Worn)
3. Intermediate shaft, Universal joint, Sliding yoke (Worn)
4. Front wheel bearing (Worn)
5. Power steering gear
6. PPS system
When I am reinstalling the torque converter shouldn't I be able to spin the propeller on the end of the transmission and see the converter spin as well? I realize you gave me a good and effectient way to verify correct installation already I am just curious.
thank you so much man.....
Well i would do a compession check on the engine before u install it better safe than sorry and also make sure u fill the torque convertor with tranny fluid before u install it. i usually put it on the ground and slowly fill it with tranny fluid, spin the convertor, the goal is to make sure all the veins of the torque convertor are filledhope this helps
Well i would do a compession check on the engine before u install it better safe than sorry and also make sure u fill the torque convertor with tranny fluid before u install it. i usually put it on the ground and slowly fill it with tranny fluid, spin the convertor, the goal is to make sure all the veins of the torque convertor are filledhope this helps
Is there a lexus kit available to do this with? Or will a generic one work. If so please provide as much info as possible. I am not an engine guy. (At least not yet!!)
well u would need a comperssion tester, remove the spark plugs and screw the compression guage into the spark plug hole you will have to crank the engine @ a normal starting speed a few times and watch the compression guage (this has to be done on all 6 chambers)to tell u the truth it may be easier for u to find a shop that will help u cause its kinda a pain in the a** if u dont have the proper tools
Naw generic tool will work it should have the metric adapter to fit the plug hole
Naw generic tool will work it should have the metric adapter to fit the plug hole
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well u would need a comperssion tester, remove the spark plugs and screw the compression guage into the spark plug hole you will have to crank the engine @ a normal starting speed a few times and watch the compression guage (this has to be done on all 6 chambers)to tell u the truth it may be easier for u to find a shop that will help u cause its kinda a pain in the a** if u dont have the proper tools
Naw generic tool will work it should have the metric adapter to fit the plug hole
Naw generic tool will work it should have the metric adapter to fit the plug hole
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nick1126
GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005)
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Dec 3, 2011 08:01 PM
