I bought this a couple months ago after reading some of the reviews here but I haven't used it yet. Here's my question: I'm getting my SUV detailed this weekend which will include it being waxed (and washed beforehand). I'm having the detail guy use my wax and don't really want to ask him to also use the Clay 2.0 (I just feel a bit weird about it). I've read that you should use the Clay 2.0 and then follow it immediately with waxing. If I use Clay 2.0 on say Friday, and get the truck washed & waxed on Sunday, is there any harm? Just trying to figure out sequence of events and
A) does it matter if I use Clay 2.0 and drive around the truck for 2 days without it being waxed? Will I harm the paint? Will I minimize effectiveness of Clay 2.0?
B) does it matter if I use Clay 2.0 and the truck gets washed 2 days later before the wax is applied? Does washing it afterwards defeat the purpose?

Car should be protected right after the clay step (well technically the paint correction that follows), or at least the car is not driven and sits in a dust free environment. The longer you wait the more contaminants will be locked in when you "wax". Speaking of, what product exactly is "my wax"?

As long as the car is washed again before waxing, it will be just fine. The clay just removes the contaminants and wax. You don't want to leave it unprotected without any wax on it for an extended period, but a couple days is no problem. And the car won't gather many new contaminants in just a few days.
Just make sure to wash the car thoroughly before you clay, and make sure it is washed again just before it is waxed.

Yikes, conflicting responses. I need a tie breaker. The wax I prefer to use is Ardex Miami Shine -
A guy who detailed my cars a few years ago used that and I've never seen either of our cars look so good for a long period of time. Really impressive product in my opinion.

I think we're pretty much saying the same thing. You don't want to wait too long. He's just being a little more cautious and saying leave it protected in the garage. I think he was assuming u weren't going to wash it again. I'm only making my recommendation on if u were to wash it again right before waxing, otherwise I'd say no. And that's true, best case would be keeping it protected as best as possible until u can apply the protective wax.

Not really conflicting responses - the idea is to use clay to remove contaminants. If you wax right after, the car paint is relatively contaminant free. If the car sits a few days, some dust will settle on it which is why washing again before wax is recommended.

OK got it. Very helpful. Yes, the car will be washed again before it is waxed, so I'll be good either way. I just watched a couple of YouTube videos on the Clay 2.0 and it looks incredibly simple and fast. I'm going to throw the guy some extra $ to just do it after he washes the truck and be done with it. Thanks!

Forget traditional waxes and sealants use a nano coating instead. I don't really have a preferred brand the several I've used have worked fine. They last far far longer and protect much better as well.

I'm definitely all about the coatings too. That does appear to be a quality wax though. Some coatings say that you can top with wax... That would be nice, but I don't know if I believe it.

Once you go with coating, waxes and sealants just won't do it anymore. Either way you have to prep the paint, why not coat and maintain for 2 years instead of months or weeks. I used to be a wax guy too, just because I like waxing. But as life gets more hectic, there just isn't time to play with my car every weekend anymore.

Depending on the age of this vehicle and if it has never been clayed before it may need it. Clay will remove bonded contaminants that washing alone will not remove. To determine if you need to use clay, use the baggie test. First wash and dry the car then take a baggie and put your hand in it and gently draw it over the paint. If there are bonded contaminants present it will be obvious.

This brings up polishing. After claying, the typical next step is polishing. You didn't mention whether or not your detailer plans on polishing. If you want to restore the paint to near original gloss it may need machine polishing. Polishing will remove swirls, sleeks and fine scratches. It will also remove any marring that may be introduced by the claying process. If you are only concerned about adding some winter paint protection then an all-in-one cleaner/wax will do. I would not use a coating on a vehicle without first machine polishing.

Back to your questions
A) It probably won't matter. Unless you park under trees that are dropping sap or drive on freshly tarred roads you probably won't get any new bonded contamination in a couple days. Whether or not clay will harm the paint is dependent on your technique and skill. It is possible to mar paint if you don't clay properly.

B) No, it does not matter.

Thanks for all of the feedback. The SUV (2010 LX) turned out incredible - the detailer was blown away by the Clay 2.0 in its effectiveness and how quickly you could get through a large SUV with minimal effort compared to traditional clay. He did mention he had to apply a bit of pressure to the Clay 2.0 to really feel like the particles and contaminants were being removed. Doing the Clay 2.0 plus the Miami wax I had him use has the paint feeling as slick as ever and looking awesome. He couldn't believe the truck was a 2010 - I keep our cars in as good of condition as I can and glad it seems to be paying off.

I'm not familiar with nano coating but will do some research and see if I should go that direction in the future. Next step is to have him detail my car using same steps and products.

Awesome, happy to hear the car turned out well. Keeping it in good shape makes it feel like you're always driving a new car. I feel like the older it gets, the more of an accomplishment it is to have kept it looking so good, and the more special it becomes.