Scratch remover?
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Break2 (08-24-17)
#32
Auto Detailing Master
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AGAIN... photos would be extremely helpful here. As someone who has photographed defects in paint for many years, I can tell you that if you manipulate your lighting and camera settings properly, you can capture any type of paint flaw on camera.
Also, as I had mentioned earlier,
There is no rule that says "if it won't come out with a compound and cutting pad then it is through the clear coat"
Using a DA machine, cutting compound, and cutting pad is still a relatively non invasive procedure.
There are MANY superficial defects that will not be removed with this process. Consider an even more aggressive pad like a microfiber or wool pad. Consider making more passes, using more pressure, and using a higher machine speed. If needed, you can even compound an area a couple of times without harm.
If, after all that compounding, the defects remain, then you may consider wet sanding.
At the end of the day, you have to ask yourself one very important question.... is removing these defects worth the risk of compromising your clear coat?
Wet sanding can be a risky task, especially when done by an amateur.
Using a DA machine, cutting compound, and cutting pad is still a relatively non invasive procedure.
There are MANY superficial defects that will not be removed with this process. Consider an even more aggressive pad like a microfiber or wool pad. Consider making more passes, using more pressure, and using a higher machine speed. If needed, you can even compound an area a couple of times without harm.
If, after all that compounding, the defects remain, then you may consider wet sanding.
At the end of the day, you have to ask yourself one very important question.... is removing these defects worth the risk of compromising your clear coat?
Wet sanding can be a risky task, especially when done by an amateur.
Microfiber Cutting Pad
Wool Cutting Pad
Make 4-6 overlapping passes at SLOW arm speed. I would do this once, check my results, and if needed, do it a second time. If after the 2nd time the defects remain, I personally would not give them any more thought. I don't like to wetsand OEM clear, and if I cannot get a defect out of the paint after 2 heavier cutting attempts, then I consider it to be a permanent defect that is not worth chasing at the risk of compromising the clear coat, or at the very least degrading the clear coat beyond it's intended thickness.
-Zach
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Break2 (08-24-17)
#33
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#34
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Scratches should not be "under" the clear coat... when clear coat is applied, it will fill in the profile of the surface beneath it, therefore if a scratch is in the base coat, it will be filled with clear coat and perhaps leave an uneven finish on the surface.
AGAIN... photos would be extremely helpful here. As someone who has photographed defects in paint for many years, I can tell you that if you manipulate your lighting and camera settings properly, you can capture any type of paint flaw on camera.
Also, as I had mentioned earlier,
It seems you are still using the same product and pad combination... you bumped up the machine speed and saw better results, and now it is time to change something else... ie use more pressure, make more passes, use a more aggressive pad and/or product. Fast Correcting Cream has some serious defect removal, so I would recommend a microfiber or wool cutting pad at maximum speed on the porter cable.
Microfiber Cutting Pad
Wool Cutting Pad
Make 4-6 overlapping passes at SLOW arm speed. I would do this once, check my results, and if needed, do it a second time. If after the 2nd time the defects remain, I personally would not give them any more thought. I don't like to wetsand OEM clear, and if I cannot get a defect out of the paint after 2 heavier cutting attempts, then I consider it to be a permanent defect that is not worth chasing at the risk of compromising the clear coat, or at the very least degrading the clear coat beyond it's intended thickness.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xIMK...S68-3t9hnEeevx
-Zach
AGAIN... photos would be extremely helpful here. As someone who has photographed defects in paint for many years, I can tell you that if you manipulate your lighting and camera settings properly, you can capture any type of paint flaw on camera.
Also, as I had mentioned earlier,
It seems you are still using the same product and pad combination... you bumped up the machine speed and saw better results, and now it is time to change something else... ie use more pressure, make more passes, use a more aggressive pad and/or product. Fast Correcting Cream has some serious defect removal, so I would recommend a microfiber or wool cutting pad at maximum speed on the porter cable.
Microfiber Cutting Pad
Wool Cutting Pad
Make 4-6 overlapping passes at SLOW arm speed. I would do this once, check my results, and if needed, do it a second time. If after the 2nd time the defects remain, I personally would not give them any more thought. I don't like to wetsand OEM clear, and if I cannot get a defect out of the paint after 2 heavier cutting attempts, then I consider it to be a permanent defect that is not worth chasing at the risk of compromising the clear coat, or at the very least degrading the clear coat beyond it's intended thickness.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xIMK...S68-3t9hnEeevx
-Zach
#36
Lead Lap
iTrader: (8)
It seems you are still using the same product and pad combination... you bumped up the machine speed and saw better results, and now it is time to change something else... ie use more pressure, make more passes, use a more aggressive pad and/or product. Fast Correcting Cream has some serious defect removal, so I would recommend a microfiber or wool cutting pad at maximum speed on the porter cable.
Microfiber Cutting Pad
Wool Cutting Pad
-Zach
#37
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Thread Starter
Just ordered some microfiber pads.
#38
Auto Detailing Master
iTrader: (2)
Wool pads were our heavy hitters when we needed them (again, 99% of the time microfiber was what we used). Wool had the cutting power, but required some more refinement than microfiber typically did.... which is to be expected with added cut.
-Zach
#39
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In my brief testing with the Flash Pads, I found them to cut nicely and also finish down relatively well. My major complaint about them was that due to their exceptional stiffness, they were difficult to work with on contoured/curvy panels. I ultimately didn't love them for that reason and therefore never integrated them into our workflow. We used microfiber cutting pads 99% of the time when dong heavier corrections.
Wool pads were our heavy hitters when we needed them (again, 99% of the time microfiber was what we used). Wool had the cutting power, but required some more refinement than microfiber typically did.... which is to be expected with added cut.
-Zach
Wool pads were our heavy hitters when we needed them (again, 99% of the time microfiber was what we used). Wool had the cutting power, but required some more refinement than microfiber typically did.... which is to be expected with added cut.
-Zach
I was using the buff and shine MF pads, but I felt like the finish with the flash pad was nicer. I'll have to try the LC ones in the future.
I've only attempted to use wool a handful of times and that was over 10 years ago. I never got comfortable using it (probably because I was learning how to use a rotary at the same time).
#42
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