Greg@DI

I always start off by deep cleaning the exterior glass with the Glass Science Glass Scrub. It helps remove deeply embedded contaminants in the pores of the glass and other stubborn build ups on the surface. After that I like the Stoner Invisible Glass and a clean microfiber towel(s). For more detailed instructions and product recommendations check out our Detailing Guide - Glass Care section. Let me know if you have any questions.

SilentWish

thanks for all the input guys!
i'll definitely give them a try

KPinCS15

something someone other than myself has never tried... vodka. im a bit of a drinker lol so ive got plenty sitting around. i just carry a cup of it out to the car with some paper towels. rub vigerously with vodka soaked paper towel, then finish with a micro fiber. i know it sounds rediculous but, its ok for me. not great. but ok. still have a few left over water spots but pretty much unnoticable unless youre really looking for it. but definetly +1 for the newspaper. i know that works like a charm.

Lil4X

Winter weather always brings out the worst possible conditions for your windshield and side glass. Professional window-washers - the guys on the scaffold who wash the windows outside tall buildings - claim that the formula for cleaning windows is a FULL bucket of clean water (in a clean bucket), plus ONE DROP of soap. You only want the surfactant effect, not a foamy mess. Brush on, squeegee off.

Some will add a few drops of ammonia, but you might want to try this for yourself before deciding on your own formulation. The idea here is not to put something on your windows that will harm the finish on the rest of the car. Whatever solvent or soap you use, use it very sparingly. Newspaper ink is a very fine grit and polish glass well, but as mentioned, modern soy inks are a bit oily. It's going to take some experimentation - and maybe rewashing. I use clean paper kitchen towels or paper shop towels to be safe.

After your windows are clean and dry, a good coat of Rain-X will help prevent spotting. Be careful to polish the windows thoroughly after applying Rain-X - it's not easy to get it all off. Re-polish several hours later when a haze appears. DON'T use their "interior" finish - it contains glycerine to prevent fogging and is almost impossible to buff out.

If you're having a difficult time with your power windows, apply Armorall or other rubber treatment to the tracks and seals. Let dry, then buff. With Rain-X smoothing the glass and the Armorall softening the seals, your power windows should glide up and down easily. Just be sure to remove any smudges from the glass as you go.

Finally, it's the minerals in tap water that cause most of the water spots, so watch your weather forecast and wash your car - and windows - just before the rain starts (you do have a weather radar app for your phone don't you?). Back the car out into the rain - in a clear area out from under trees - for a free, soft-water rinse that won't spot. Otherwise, use filtered and demineralized water.